F-Body Lover

is this a must? I mean can I just drill anywhere on the blades and thats it? I have to change the base plate because it dont open the blades 90 degrees I think I will just drill anywhere on the blades

speedy55

drill on the blades on the side closest to the center of the carb.which blades do not open 90 degrees? primary or secondary?

F-Body Lover

why should I drill on the side closest to the center of the carb? the secondarys wont open 90 degrees and the primarys wont close fully it stays open and I have to close it by hand or use the return spring to let it close I should have talked to holley the 1st day I bought this cursed carb from them but its a headache to send it back

speedy55

drill closest to the center because that is the farthest point from the idle transfer slot.you say the primaries wont close fully.............have the throttle blades ever been removed from the shaft? the blades have a 3 digit number on them and it should be toward the center of the carb. If they are in wrong the blades will not close all the way( dont ask me how i know this).remove the link to the secondaries This will allow you to work on the primaries and secondaries seperately. If everything appears correct and the primaries still wont close all the way loosen the 4 screws holding the blades to the shaft but do not remove them. back the idle speed screw out until it does not touch the linkage. then wiggle the throttle blades with your fingers to allow them to move on the shaft so that the shaft spring can pull the shaft back as far as possible towards the idle position. it will be easiest to do this with the base plate seperated from the main body of the carb.as far as sending it back think of it this way...............bolt on out of the box carbs for the rest of your life and hope it works to the best or work,tinker and learn and you will know how to fix it next time you have a problem.

F-Body Lover

believe it or not it is out of the box carb and it didnt work fine from the first day it was bolted on

speedy55

wel now comes the learning part then.

F-Body Lover

speedy55 thnx alot man the car now works fine it just needs tune and timing badly I hate thumpr series cam's they are killer headache when it comes to timing when I shut the engine off it keeps running like diesel I will put the timing light and see whats going on there and I might switch to full MSD electricals from distributor to wires

speedy55

anytime I can help I will be glad to. the dieseling sounds like the timing might be a little high and have a lean mix.

F-Body Lover

speedy when I drill the holes should I close the secondarys ? what about the mixture screws close them too or take half turn all of them? the drill's really helped the carb to work fine but its not smooth I think it needs tune and the correct power valve I have 6.5's but they suck so I put the blocker instead and it works fine but not that fine

speedy55

start with the idle mixture screws about 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.get the engine warm and get the idle speed as low as it will stay running steadily.take a vacuum plug or hose off of the intake or base of the carb. If the engine speeds up then your idle mixture is rich because when you pull the vacuum cap off of the intake you are allowing more oxygen into the engine. if it stumbles and dies then the idle mixture is lean. I always shoot for a LITTLE bit toward rich but not bad enough to kill the plugs.As you get the mixture closer to the optimum setting the engine speed should increase and you will need to adjust the idle speed accordingly.only remove the vacuum cap momentarily to check the mixture then put it back on.Power valves are great for mostly street driven cars as long as they are the correct ones and are in good condition. If the carb has ever been backfired through they MAY be shot.Your powervalve should be 1.5 to 2 below your vacuum readings at idle.Hope this helps. its a little time consuming but its worth it.