Help With Head Choice
07-27-2010, 05:06 PM
#43
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Coming along waiting for my radiator to come in the mail then i have to get a new set of spark plug wires because the other ones melted after that just put back my fender on and radiator support and hopefully start it
383 keith black flat top pistons 10.5.1 compression fuelie heads rpm air gap manifold 750 carb msd distributor 488 lift cam tci 3500 stall converter turbo 400 trans 373 gears im hoping for mid to high 12s and maybe high to low 12s with ported vortec heads onces i can afford them this is a street car going to be driven around a lot
if you have any suggestions please feel free to tell me
08-16-2010, 09:59 PM
#44
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I need my car tuned its running really rich burning up alot of gas where can i bring my car to get tuned and how much would it cost and what other then changing the carb adjustments do they do? just the timing?
08-17-2010, 06:47 AM
#45
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You can do a pretty good tune up on it yourself...with the right tools. Get a vacuum gage and a tachometer you can see when working under the hood. Also, you will need a timing light with a dial back ***. From the sounds of it, you have the primary throttle blades opened too far to get the desired idle RPM. This is exposing too much of the transfer slot and dumping a ton of fuel into the car at idle. The main reason people open the blades to far...not enough ignition advance. What is your base timing? Are you running vacuum advance? I would atart at 16* initial and with the vacuum you should be around 48* at a 900RPM idle. With 16* initial, your total may go too high. Make sure you check the total. You may need to limit the total mechanical advance that the distributer can supply.
08-17-2010, 08:50 PM
#47
08-19-2010, 07:29 PM
#48
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i adjusted my carb a little it seems to not be using as much gas now i still need to have the timing done im in the middle of moving so alot of my tools are packed it shouldnt cost much or maybe not even at all to have a shop do it real fast for me
another question is that i went to a performance shop the other day and told them the problem im having which is that sometimes when my car gets to 200 degrees the coolant will start shooting out of my over flow tube so i went to go get a over flow tank and they had one that is sealed or one that has a filter on the top and the guy said the one with the filter on top would be better but for some reason i didnt really want to believe him so will a vented filter top over flow tank work?
i can get a picture of it to show you what it looks like if needed
another question is that i went to a performance shop the other day and told them the problem im having which is that sometimes when my car gets to 200 degrees the coolant will start shooting out of my over flow tube so i went to go get a over flow tank and they had one that is sealed or one that has a filter on the top and the guy said the one with the filter on top would be better but for some reason i didnt really want to believe him so will a vented filter top over flow tank work?
i can get a picture of it to show you what it looks like if needed
08-19-2010, 08:48 PM
#49
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Retarded timing can cause overheating. Also, make sure you have an air dam under your car if it supposed to have one (not sure about the 1994 camaro). Are you using a thermostat? Electric fans?
Just get a basic overflow tank. No need for anything fancy.
Just get a basic overflow tank. No need for anything fancy.
08-19-2010, 08:55 PM
#50
Is it water or steam that is coming out? 200 is low to be having steam seeing water doesn't boil till 212. A vented catch can is what you want or else when fluid is trying to exit the radiator it will have no place relieve pressure. When the engine is cold and coolant as at its normal temperature it is contracted. When the engine heats up coolant expands like anything else and a small portion is pushed past the radiator cap and into the coolant reservoir. When the engine sits and cools back off the coolant contracts again and siphons coolant from the reservoir back into the radiator. If you don't have a catch can it will only have air to displace that area when contracting. Though it doesn't usually cause any problems I've done it before. Make sure cap is living up to its job and holding pressure as well. for every 1psi of pressure you have on your cooling system raises the boiling point of water 3 degrees. So if you have a 15lb radiator cap regular water shouldn't boil till 257* 45* more than 0 pressure.
08-19-2010, 09:03 PM
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another problem im having is that the bottom hose that goes on the water pump keeps leaking its a new hose correct size and i cant tighten the clamp anymore then it is it will drip out of it and then other times it wont its pissing me off i even tried putting two clamps on it the car wasnt having heating problems until i put the hood back on the car before that it would stay around 180 now in traffic and stuff it goes up to 220-230
08-20-2010, 09:24 AM
#56
Are you 100% sure that the polarity to your electric fan is right and the air is flowing the right way? I have ran stout motors for a long time with the very same 16in fan on a 3 core factory radiator and haven't had any problems. You have plenty of room in the engine bay. As far as the hose leak make sure there isnt any cracks or anything on the water pump inlet. From the looks of that catch can you aren't running any antifreeze in the motor. Maybe you should try some. coolant is the only thing that lubricates a water pump. It also helps prevent against scaleing which will hinder heat exchange process. Just half a gallon or so of antifreeze concentrate will do the trick.
08-20-2010, 03:24 PM
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the fan is pulling air through the radiator i have coolant and distilled water in my cooling system the catch can does not have a tube going to the bottom of the tank and like i said i wanst having heating problems until i put the hood back on
with a 383 bottom end camel hump heads 488 lift cam not 100% sure on the duration rpm air gap intake manifold long tube headers 750 carb turbo 400 trans 3000 stall converter 373 gears what should i be running 1/4 mile i was told my motor should be making around 360-375 with the heads i have on it and if i switch to vortec heads and manifold how much more power would i make and how much better on gas would me car be?
with a 383 bottom end camel hump heads 488 lift cam not 100% sure on the duration rpm air gap intake manifold long tube headers 750 carb turbo 400 trans 3000 stall converter 373 gears what should i be running 1/4 mile i was told my motor should be making around 360-375 with the heads i have on it and if i switch to vortec heads and manifold how much more power would i make and how much better on gas would me car be?
08-21-2010, 08:03 PM
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i checked my oil last night and it was 2 qts short!? so i put more oil in it and pulled one of my spark plugs smells like burnt oil and was brown so my guess would be the valve seals ? id hope to got its not my rings because i cant really afford to do anything right now what are your ideas guys?
08-22-2010, 08:18 PM
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oh yeah and if i buy the heads you have for sale with 57cc chambers how high is that going to make my compression on my motor? with about 10.5.1 keith black pistons
