What would you build to get 450-550rwhp in a small block?? On a budget??
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What would you build to get 450-550rwhp in a small block?? On a budget??
Ok so I am considering building a motor as a side project to put in my 305 car when I am done building the red car's motor.
I want it to be completely streetable. I will be driving it mostly on the street. It will go to the track about once or twice a year. It will stay a 5 speed car. I am considering a standard 350, 355, 358, 383, and 396? I want it to be around 450-550 rwhp I know more cubes equal more power but will be more streetable? what would you build? I will probley make it a carb motor and get rid of the crappy TBI.
how would you build this. I want to do it on a budget too. Not expensive parts etc.
Give me your ideas
Right Now I'm thinking a 383, AFR heads, victor jr intake, demon carb, not sure on a good cam for this that will do good on the street strip idea. Just though some ideas at me
I want it to be completely streetable. I will be driving it mostly on the street. It will go to the track about once or twice a year. It will stay a 5 speed car. I am considering a standard 350, 355, 358, 383, and 396? I want it to be around 450-550 rwhp I know more cubes equal more power but will be more streetable? what would you build? I will probley make it a carb motor and get rid of the crappy TBI.
how would you build this. I want to do it on a budget too. Not expensive parts etc.
Give me your ideas
Right Now I'm thinking a 383, AFR heads, victor jr intake, demon carb, not sure on a good cam for this that will do good on the street strip idea. Just though some ideas at me
#3
Well, get the parts that will help with building more power on a budget. The parts to really spend money on are high flow cylinder heads (AFR street eliminators come to mind), camshaft, intake manifold (good dual plane such as Edelbrock air-gap, I would not personally go with a single plane), Holley carb due to easy tuning (min 750 cfm), electric fan, and full length headers are the parts that I would spend money on to get power.
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^^^ What he said. The trick is to get the most cubes on a budget. An aftermarket block will net you more cubes safely but we are on a budget here. I would go and find a good 2 bolt main 400 block and splay the main caps to a 4 bolt main. Then bore it out to 4.155 (4.125 stock+.030=4.155)and instead of going 3.75 on the stroke to get a 406ci I would go a lil bigger on stroke to 3.875 that will net you close to a 414 cube motor. This is if you have the money to do so, if not check out the stock 400 crank and see if it is ok and you could re-use that since this motor will most likely not see any nitrous and we will be back to a 406 cube motor.
The next step will be to move on to the heads. This is tricky because you want to make power but you are trying to stay within budget. This is where you should go ahead and spend the money and get something good, AFR and Brodix come to mind. Make sure you get the compression to 10.5 or above because you are going to need a healthy cam to get the power goal and low compression and a big cam equals a dud of a motor.
A cam that comes to mind would probably be something in the 25x/260 range ground on a 110 and lift around 62x/63x. I know this sounds big but remember you have alot of cubes to soak this up and because it is on a 110 it will help out the idle. Just remember this while you are building this motor---A good cam under some crappy heads will make a dog of a motor, a set of good heads on top of a crappy cam will make good power.
The next step will be to move on to the heads. This is tricky because you want to make power but you are trying to stay within budget. This is where you should go ahead and spend the money and get something good, AFR and Brodix come to mind. Make sure you get the compression to 10.5 or above because you are going to need a healthy cam to get the power goal and low compression and a big cam equals a dud of a motor.
A cam that comes to mind would probably be something in the 25x/260 range ground on a 110 and lift around 62x/63x. I know this sounds big but remember you have alot of cubes to soak this up and because it is on a 110 it will help out the idle. Just remember this while you are building this motor---A good cam under some crappy heads will make a dog of a motor, a set of good heads on top of a crappy cam will make good power.
#5
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550RWHP is going to be quite a task on a budget. I know everyone's idea of that term is different so what exactly is your budget?
The best way to get there is with N20. A good kit cost about 1k and it gets you a couple hundred HP.
If you are looking to to do that NA and expect reliability on the street then you are looking at an expensive big block.
You can get a good LS1 with a procharger on it to do that as well but in most cases you'll be in deep with the Forced induction.
For starters you'll need roughly 600HP at the fly wheel to get 480-500HP depending on if you use 15 or 20% drive line loss.
Good luck,
~Jim~
The best way to get there is with N20. A good kit cost about 1k and it gets you a couple hundred HP.
If you are looking to to do that NA and expect reliability on the street then you are looking at an expensive big block.
You can get a good LS1 with a procharger on it to do that as well but in most cases you'll be in deep with the Forced induction.
For starters you'll need roughly 600HP at the fly wheel to get 480-500HP depending on if you use 15 or 20% drive line loss.
Good luck,
~Jim~
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Thanks Guys, I have been thinking that I have alittle too high hopes for this motor. I think 400-450 RWHP whould be good enough for a street car because it will have to have some street manners. this car will be on the street alot and still be a stick shift. My budget is 5-6k over time. I am gonna slowly build this as just a side project. something to do while I go back to school and such.
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What are the differences in supercharging a carb motor from a fuel injected car? Just making sure I don't miss little things. I think it would be much easier to make these numbers with a belt driven s/c so all advice?
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#8
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There isn't much difference except your carb is metering the fuel instead of an ecm and injectors. You would want to have low compression for the boost. Tuning is going to be your issue. I hear different stories about this, some say its a pain in the *** to tune then others have no issues and make stupid power.
#9
For a street motor, you want torque. If you decide to run boost, use lower compression pistons to avoid detonation.
Some people like EFI and others carbs. Its all based on your preference and if you like playing around with electronics while tuning.
Some people like EFI and others carbs. Its all based on your preference and if you like playing around with electronics while tuning.
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There is no shame in trading or buying used parts as long as you're smart about it, you can save a lot of money that way and possibly end up with better parts than you would have had. As soon as you hit the key all of your new parts instantly become used anyway, so what's the difference. Check out places like ebay and local swap meets. I like the idea of using a 400 block but I dont think I would bother with the splayed four bolt mains. Between the cost of the parts and align boring it gets too expensive, two bolts are stronger than people give them credit for. Like you said you are on a budget and its a street engine, so its not going to see extreme RPM anyways. If the block you get doesn't need to be bored than you probably shouldn't bother because the gain is very minimal, you should just leave the meat on the cylinders in case it ends up needing to be borded in the future. Then again if you don't have a block already then why stay with a small block? 550hp is like breaking sticks for a big block.
#14
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Of course, there are plenty of folks out there with supercharged, and even better turbo setups with a stock engine boosted hard and making the power you are looking for. They have money in a turbo setup and nothing in the engine. They will last a long time with a good tune, some are ticking time bombs when they are boosted WAY more than the rest, but it is part of the game.
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What about a forged 406 with mild heads, blower cam, low compression, and a positive displacement blower? I think this can get me there. But I doubt my 5 speed or 10 bolt will hold it lol
#20
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DRT-01210002/
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...12-214-4&dds=1
Around 10.1 compression forged rotating assembly and this would make a mean street motor IMO.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...12-214-4&dds=1
Around 10.1 compression forged rotating assembly and this would make a mean street motor IMO.