





468 bbc or 496 bbc
Which engine would be best to build a 468 or 496 stroker? And Why?
Thanks in advance
Last edited by dkcoleman01; Feb 29, 2012 at 07:29 AM.
For something so low powered, I honestly would get whatever the best bang for the buck is.
If you could ever afford a real high performance build,
then you would definitely see a noticeable difference from a bigger arm.
Now also be careful you don't get fooled by all the china crap and their inflated numbers.
It might look like you are getting way more for less, but most of that stuff sucks and needs a lot of money to fix all the issues.
Plus the stuff breaks with regularity that a decent American, base model part doesn't.
Good luck.
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Thanks, James Hope this helps
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Thanks, James Hope this helps
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Good decision. Like I said, a 496" is a good start, just don't expect some huge difference, like 100-200 HP.
It is definitely a great time to build strokers, and parts are everywhere.
Just becareful you get the best bang for your buck.
I spent a lot of money building a stroker and it ended up making the exact same HP.
The head was too mild for the extra inches.
Good luck.
.
I've been in the drag racing scene since the late 80's. I owned and operated a transmission business and had sponsored many Div 5 racers. I built transmissions mostly for the Stock Eliminator class. 2 of which held national records in ET and MPH; A/SA 64 Plymouth Savoy (fastest automatic transmission stocker in the world) and then a G/SA 73 Duster. Since my divorce in 2005 and losing everything, I now live in NV and remarried. I'm slowly getting back.
I'm currently building a 77 Camaro, AFR headed 505 BBC with a 4L60 (700r4). It should be one bad *** muscle car when completed. Like I said, BBC’s need compression and a good flowing head. You want to achieve a net quench area of .032-.037. In order to get CR 10:1 and above you’ll need to use a substantial dome, which the flame propagation is hindered. The piston domes should be relieved so the flame front can go over the piston dome.
I've been in the drag racing scene since the late 80's. I owned and operated a transmission business and had sponsored many Div 5 racers. I built transmissions mostly for the Stock Eliminator class. 2 of which held national records in ET and MPH; A/SA 64 Plymouth Savoy (fastest automatic transmission stocker in the world) and then a G/SA 73 Duster. Since my divorce in 2005 and losing everything, I now live in NV and remarried. I'm slowly getting back.
I'm currently building a 77 Camaro, AFR headed 505 BBC with a 4L60 (700r4). It should be one bad *** muscle car when completed. Like I said, BBC’s need compression and a good flowing head. You want to achieve a net quench area of .032-.037. In order to get CR 10:1 and above you’ll need to use a substantial dome, which the flame propagation is hindered. The piston domes should be relieved so the flame front can go over the piston dome.
Some people will not use stock or used cranks, rods, pistons etc.
So if starting from scratch, sometimes you can build a 496" for the same price as a 454".
Again, if you have the head to take advantage of the extra size, you will see a decent power increase.
If not, you have the base for a new head when you can afford it.
My crew chief has ran well into the 9's with stock short blocks.
He kept pretty close to me using all aftermarket stuff, that cost a hell of a lot more,
but he had more experience/ knowledge, I had more money.
So as I learned, and got better stuff, I pulled away.
You definitely can make some decent power with stock parts, but you will hit a level where it stops.
.
1st, I have a Pro-Mod, and when I'm done with the rods, I wouldn't put them in anything except a display/paperweight.
Plus they are way too long to even fit a stock block.
2nd, my 468" ran 9.32, I built a stroker with the same heads, and it ran 9.31.
The engine will make the power the head can support.
All you are doing is lower the HP per inch numbers.
3rd, like I said, you can build a reliable race motor with a stock short block if you know what to do.
I won't do it but other do it everyday, 700-800 HP.
Now, for $4000 is it possible to do much other then use all stock & used stuff??
I would be no help there. I can't even get heads for $4000 on the stuff I build.
.
http://www.usaperform.com/scat-rotat...21-p-1852.html
4.310 bore & 4.250 stroke
496 cid
Scat forged crankshafts
6.385in Scat 4340 forged H-beam rods
850 HP w/ ARP8740 and 1200 HP w/ARP2000 rod bolts
KB Pistons +17cc = 10.2-1
Mahle/SRP forged pistons +18cc Dome = 10.2-1 with 118cc heads
Plasma moly file fit rings
Clevite H series rod & main bearings
Precision Balanced Internally
Use 396/427 unweighted flex plate & harmonic balancer
S496-42355B 496 10.2 Forged KB $1,759.00
S496-42360 496 10.2 Forged Mahle/SRP $1,929.00
http://www.usaperform.com/block-chev...0cc-p-836.html
SF320 Bare, pr 320 115 2.250/1.880 $987.50
SF320-3050 Assem, pr 320 115 2.250/1.880 1.510D Steel Hydraulic $1,329.50
SF320-3450 Assem, pr 320 115 2.250/1.880 1.460D Steel Hyd Roller $1,349.50
SF320-3450 Assem, pr 320 115 2.250/1.880 1.460D Steel Solid, flat $1,349.50
SF320-3870 Assem, pr 320 115 2.250/1.880 1.625D Tit Solid Roller $1,549.50
http://www.usaperform.com/install-fl...ng-p-1696.html $235
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-11-250-3/ Comp Cams CB XE284H-10 $135
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-53031/ Professional Products Single plane intake $255
Clean and Machine block $450

