Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific Mouse & Rat Motor Discussion & Conversions

break in oil?

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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 02:03 AM
  #21  
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jeez i didnt realize this would start a big issue. ill have alot of machine work done (balancing, honing and i need to file fit my rings). they're plasma moly rings (what probe pistons recommended). they make break-in oil right? must be a reason. if you use conventional thats fine as well, i just wondered what other ppl have used. i think my ole' sbc is alil behind the technology of todays motors too.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 05:31 AM
  #22  
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If people ask questions on a BLOG the truth or the facts should be printed. NOT SOME OLD WIVES TALES. As an engine builder for many many years i pride myself on accuracy and a NO BS answer. If you feel you need Olive oil to break in your engine who am i to argur. But as i have many friends that build aircraft engines as well as lawn mower engines this oil break in issue is basically NONSENSE. Even in the aircraft industry they are aware of it. Now if you think a car engine is expensive try pricing out a aircraft unit. All i was doing is posting my experience and with talking to our vendors. Our oil and ring vendors tell us synthetics are fine. And we go by their recommendations, If you dont want to believe this thats fine. Just wanted to post the facts on the issue.

There is a pervasive myth in the aviation piston-engine world: the myth claims that in order to break-in a new or freshly overhauled engine or cylinder, straight mineral oil must be used during the break-in period. The term "straight mineral oil" refers to oil that does not contain the ashless dispersant chemicals found in AD or ashless dispersant oil.

Every mechanic has been told from the beginning of time that engines must be broken in on mineral oil. The reasoning behind this claim is that when an engine is run for the first time, it is necessary for the piston rings to seat themselves to the cylinder walls. Properly seated rings provide a fit that keeps compressions high and oil consumption low. Mineral oil, it is claimed, allows seating to occur because it isn’t so slippery that rings won’t be able to wear off the microscopic metal mountain peaks that populate the material that makes up the steel cylinder walls. This part is true. The rings do have to seat, by wearing smooth the metal peaks.

Ashless dispersant oil, the myth says, is too slippery and too good at preventing wear to allow the rings to seat properly. We have all heard this, it gets passed from mechanic to mechanic, and it even sounds kind of logical. Theoretically, AD oil contains some special chemical that gives it more lubricity and greater film strength than straight mineral oil.

But this simply isn’t true.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 09:39 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by tom falco
If people ask questions on a BLOG the truth or the facts should be printed. NOT SOME OLD WIVES TALES. As an engine builder for many many years i pride myself on accuracy and a NO BS answer. If you feel you need Olive oil to break in your engine who am i to argur. But as i have many friends that build aircraft engines as well as lawn mower engines this oil break in issue is basically NONSENSE. Even in the aircraft industry they are aware of it. Now if you think a car engine is expensive try pricing out a aircraft unit. All i was doing is posting my experience and with talking to our vendors. Our oil and ring vendors tell us synthetics are fine. And we go by their recommendations, If you dont want to believe this thats fine. Just wanted to post the facts on the issue.

There is a pervasive myth in the aviation piston-engine world: the myth claims that in order to break-in a new or freshly overhauled engine or cylinder, straight mineral oil must be used during the break-in period. The term "straight mineral oil" refers to oil that does not contain the ashless dispersant chemicals found in AD or ashless dispersant oil.

Every mechanic has been told from the beginning of time that engines must be broken in on mineral oil. The reasoning behind this claim is that when an engine is run for the first time, it is necessary for the piston rings to seat themselves to the cylinder walls. Properly seated rings provide a fit that keeps compressions high and oil consumption low. Mineral oil, it is claimed, allows seating to occur because it isn’t so slippery that rings won’t be able to wear off the microscopic metal mountain peaks that populate the material that makes up the steel cylinder walls. This part is true. The rings do have to seat, by wearing smooth the metal peaks.

Ashless dispersant oil, the myth says, is too slippery and too good at preventing wear to allow the rings to seat properly. We have all heard this, it gets passed from mechanic to mechanic, and it even sounds kind of logical. Theoretically, AD oil contains some special chemical that gives it more lubricity and greater film strength than straight mineral oil.

But this simply isn’t true.
We aren't in the aircraft industry and we aren't talking about mineral spirits. As stated before, there is no one size fits all answer. What's right in a factory engine or an aviation application may not be relevant to the application in question. Just because something is more expensive (aircraft situation) doesn't mean that what you do with it is what you should do in an aftermarket automotive application.

We build high performance engines and we do it with specific procedures and with rings that require and absolutely do respond to certain running parameters during initial break-in with one of those parameters being the type of oil used. It's acceptable for you to disagree and have your own opinion, but to come in here and call it nonsense and completely disregard the need for proper break-in in any and all applications no matter what honing procedure was used, what the rings are made out of, and what the parts manufacturers have found to be best for their own parts. . .well that's simply ignorant nonsense.

We build the engines in question. We use the parts in question. Based on our experience with the application and parts in question, proper break-in is required. There is a reason that we supply break-in oil with our custom shortblocks at no charge to the customer.
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 11:09 AM
  #24  
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Dear Mr Falco:

Get out and do. Dont just read the internet. Then please put your voice your oppinion. You are just quoting internet posts and jargon.

Thanks
Someone who dose
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 04:56 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 1dirtybird
Dear Mr Falco:

Get out and do. Dont just read the internet. Then please put your voice your oppinion. You are just quoting internet posts and jargon.

Thanks
Someone who dose



You dont do custom work like this if i fell off a turnip truck last week. And what is your expertise in the automotive field DIRTY BIRD. Thank you so much for your kind words i will remember them always. Have to go engines are waiting for me Thanks

Last edited by tom falco; Jul 13, 2012 at 05:18 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 02:09 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Scoggin Dickey
We build the engines in question. We use the parts in question. Based on our experience with the application and parts in question, proper break-in is required. There is a reason that we supply break-in oil with our custom shortblocks at no charge to the customer.
^thanks.
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 02:05 PM
  #27  
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I subcontract for a local LS shop, bike shop, and run my own shop. I have built engines for many things from ls9's, ls7's bbc's sbc's and many lsx's to go-carts. I do tuning, both carbs and computer, and I race. But this is the internet so who knows right
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