break in oil?
break in oil? so im gettin my rotating assembly balanced for my new 383 stroker. so i should be puttin it together within two weeks or so. i spared no expense in this build so i was just wondering what guys have run for the break in period. here's the motor
383 Gen I block 4BM
11:5 to 1 Compression
Probe forged pistons
58cc aluminum heads, 2.02/1.60 valves.
Solid roller cam, roller lifters, 1.7 roller rockers (all comp cam's valvetrain even springs/timing chain)
Forged Scat crankshaft and rods
Arp bolts in everything.
i think thats it lol. so what do you guys run for break in oil on your new motor setup?
383 Gen I block 4BM
11:5 to 1 Compression
Probe forged pistons
58cc aluminum heads, 2.02/1.60 valves.
Solid roller cam, roller lifters, 1.7 roller rockers (all comp cam's valvetrain even springs/timing chain)
Forged Scat crankshaft and rods
Arp bolts in everything.
i think thats it lol. so what do you guys run for break in oil on your new motor setup?
i hope you're jokin 
i was thinking just normal non-synthetic castrol oil. then switch after a few hrs on the motor. i just like to get opinions on ppl experiences.
i was thinking just normal non-synthetic castrol oil. then switch after a few hrs on the motor. i just like to get opinions on ppl experiences.
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I like Mobil drive clean 5000 with red line additive for the 1st 20 min of run time. It has a ton of detergents, also use a good filter (I run napa golds on everything I do)
Then change it & filter, run for 500 miles or so w/ what ever you use w/ the other half of the redline additive.
My **** dont break so it works for me. (I also assemble all my engine jobs)
Then change it & filter, run for 500 miles or so w/ what ever you use w/ the other half of the redline additive.
My **** dont break so it works for me. (I also assemble all my engine jobs)
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 268
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Nope not joking!!
You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1.
Reality:
You can start using Mobil 1 in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:
Acura RDX
Aston Martin DB9, DB9 Volante, DBS, DBS Volante, Virage, Virage Volante, Rapide
All Bentley Vehicles
Bristol Fighter
Chevrolet Camaro SS
Chevrolet Corvette Z06, ZR1 and Grand Sport Coupe
Chevrolet CR8
Chrysler 300C SRT-8
Dodge Challenger SRT-8
Holden HSV
Ilmor MV-10 710 Marine Engines
Lexus LFA
Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution
Nissan GT-R
Opel Insignia
All Porsche Vehicles
All S&S Motorcycles
Saab 9-3 TTiD
Vauxhall VXR8
Viper Motorcycles
One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.
You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1.
Reality:
You can start using Mobil 1 in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:
Acura RDX
Aston Martin DB9, DB9 Volante, DBS, DBS Volante, Virage, Virage Volante, Rapide
All Bentley Vehicles
Bristol Fighter
Chevrolet Camaro SS
Chevrolet Corvette Z06, ZR1 and Grand Sport Coupe
Chevrolet CR8
Chrysler 300C SRT-8
Dodge Challenger SRT-8
Holden HSV
Ilmor MV-10 710 Marine Engines
Lexus LFA
Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution
Nissan GT-R
Opel Insignia
All Porsche Vehicles
All S&S Motorcycles
Saab 9-3 TTiD
Vauxhall VXR8
Viper Motorcycles
One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.
well, technology is alil different today. the newer motors do come with synthetic, i know that. im pretty sure my SS did. i just dont feel like spending thousands of dollars just to spin a bearing right after its put together.
I used to beat my motors for a week with regular oil, then switch if i wanted to to synthetic after a month. Synthetic can prevent proper ring seating and what not. So i made sure it was bet in.
And please look up all the TSB's for oil consumption problems on some of those lmao.
Also alot of high end car manufactures fire their engins or cold run them before they install them. that will also break in/ seat the rings. Check out BMW they do it to ALL their engines.
Also alot of high end car manufactures fire their engins or cold run them before they install them. that will also break in/ seat the rings. Check out BMW they do it to ALL their engines.
The biggest reason for "break-In oil" is when you build an engine there is dirt, fresh metal shavings from new parts (springs bearings ect ect ect) lint and an excessive amount of abrasive break-in lube. All those things are collected in the oil and filter during the first heat cycles. Why spend the money on synthetic for this reason?
We supply Joe Gibbs break-in oil with all of our custom shortblocks.
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 268
Likes: 1
This answer is straight from the MOBIL ENGINEERS!!!
Is it true that new engines need break-in periods using conventional motor oil?
That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances, much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils.
Is it true that new engines need break-in periods using conventional motor oil?
That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances, much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils.
Last edited by tom falco; Jul 12, 2012 at 07:46 PM.
Most ring manufacters recommend running conventional oil to help with ring seating. I know that alot of cars come with synthetic but they also get broke in on a dyno and get an oil change before they are put in the car for people to buy. I know there have probably been several engines use synthetic straight from the start without failure. Final honing and ring material also have a factor in how the rings seat. So why not just play it safe and use conventional?