I Have a 388 stroker (wheeler power products block 400 internally balanced crank and dish pistons all wheeler power products)
750 edelbrock carb
Edelbrock air gap intake
V belt system
Holly electric fuel pump
Moroso oil pan (5qt aluminum)
2 piece rear main
Turbo 350 trans

Here's the two major issues.
1. I leak oil worse then BP in the gulf. It's leaking by where the rear main is but I can't tell if it's the oil pan or if it is the rear main but I've replaced both gaskets 3 times! Yet... It's still leaking!!! And not like a couple drops like someone just poured 1/4 quart every time I shut the car off after its been running for 30 min or more and it starts pouring out when I get it above 3000 rpm and leaves a trail of smoke behind me like it's freaking joe dirt ( which is funny because it's a 79 TA )

Now I'm not sure if it's the pan or what? Any suggestions with that??

2. I cant get it about 3500 without it shifting. It will shift before it gets into the power band and it seems like it wins up slow at that to. I use 93 octane gas and I have 64cc 1.6 intake 2.02 out aluminum heads... I've adjusted the fuel pump to 7psi and have it tuned right I think (don't know exactly how to test that) and at 32 degrees total timing. And the linkage is adjusted to. It's almost like the other 2 barrels of the carb don't open up... It's really starting to hack me off

Please help me!! Lol I've spent almost $9000 on this engine and I can't even drive it. Any andvice is helpful! Thanks everyone!

 

LS swap.

 

That does not help sorry. Lol

 

Rear main seal in backwords? But I'm chasing my own leak, so what do I know.......

 

Are you sure its coming from INSIDE the bellhousing? Galley plugs tight? Oil seal facing the wrong direction? Are you using the one piece rubber oil pan gasket...They seal really nice IMO. Verify that its not coming from above the bellhousing... It could be a pinhole in mechanical oil pressure line, rear intake seal or back of the valve cover gasket(s).

Your second question is really confusing. It sounds like a transmission problem your describing, then a power problem... You might want to try and clarify your questions.

 

Thanks for the reply, next weekend I'm going to pull the engine and re gasket the whole thing I'll make sure to check all the areas you described!

The second question is one no one in my town understands either, I cannot get the car to go above 3500 rpm (in Drive, it's a 3 speed automatic). I can get it to go to 4500 if I shift into low but in drive I can give it WOT and 1. I think I could get beat by a Prius because it takes it that long to winde up to 3500 and when it hits 3500 it shifts to second. It's the weirdest thing... Hopefully that clarified it, if not I'll take a video and YouTube it or something.

One last thing is, I'm thinking it has to be running rich and maybe that's a problem but I can't seem to find any good advice or info on actually fine tuning the carb (edelbrock 1407) and my fuel pump is set at 7psi.

Thanks for the help!

 

sounds like your crank case cant breath so it's blowing the oil out and eng can't or won't create vacum for your carb to work right.

 

Maybe try posting in the right section. To my knowledge this is a carbed lsx section so I was pretty confused when you said a 400 block. Youd maybe get more 1st gen sb engine specific help there. Just a fyi tho, my Holley fuel level was too low on my secondaries so it would starve for fuel at like 5500 in drive. It wouldnt do it in lower gears but im guessin it didnt have enough time and load to drain the bowls. Check the float level?

 

Yeah I was confused of what section to put it in. I'm new to all this engine/car stuff but I learn pretty fast. I saw carb so I though i'ld post here. Lol

So anyway I'm pulling the engine next week is there a good video or tutorial to get the crank case to breath? What exactly do I have to do? Thanks for all the help guys!

 

Do you have a PCV hooked up? Do you have a open breather on one BANK or valve cover?

 

The PVC is hooked up and I have a breather on the passenger side valve cover.

 

#1- check your cam plug. I have seen many of these installed crooked and the cam wears thru them.

#2- check your vacuum line going to the modulator on the tranny. I should be hooked to manifold vacuum.

 

thanks cambird and stunningman, I will try both of your ideas tonight or next weekend. I did check compression and I got 180 +/- 10psi in every cylinder... now I'm a noob is this good? I'm not exactly sure what i'm looking at and the guy at o'reilly's wasn't much help either.

 

If you are +/- 10 on all cylinders, this is good. Cranking pressure doesn't tell you a whole lot. If you have a bigger cam, it will be lower, if you have a smaller cam, it will be higher. But having all of them very close to the same is very good. You're not doing bad for a noob.

Oh yea, and if you pull the rear main cap, place a small dimple of RVt gasket silicone on the cap where it meets the block. Older Chevys pump oil thru the cap into the block and they have been known to leak there also.

 

All right guys new info! I blew the hose on cylinder 7 and had to get a new one, and when I tested cylinder 8 it was at 110 psi... What does this mean?... Please dont tell me I need a new ring... Ha! But seriously..

 

Now it's time to get a leak down tester and figure out where it's leaking at. Could be the valves, rings or head gasket.

 

its a sbc, bbc, lt1, lt4 section.

 

Make sure your pcv is hooked to a full time vacuum source.
What jets are you running in the carb?
What's your initial timing set at? Ported or manifold vac advance?
What ignition system are you running?

As to the rear oil leak. Is it one or 2 piece. It sounds like you are using a 2 piece rear main crank in a 1 piece block or vice versa. What did you seal the manifold to the block with?

 

Thanks big dog, let me take a look and see where everything is at.

As for the leak down tester can you explain what I need to do, or find me a YouTube video of how to do it?

 

You can do a simple leak down test by getting a blow gun with the rubber tip and using it to pressurize each cylinder and listen for air. Make sure both valves are closed of course. You need an air compressor (obviously). I don't what you're trying to find by doing a leak down test though...

I can just about guarantee you your problem is ignition related. What ignition are you running?