SBC or LS Style?
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Joined: May 2013
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From: Ohio
SBC or LS Style? Hello, I'm 16 and having a hard decision on what which route to take. I have a 1976 355 block, with an Eagle Crank, probe industries rods and keith black pistons. Hoping to get about 10.5 CR at 0 deck. If I go with the sbc route, i was planning on buying some 185cc 2.02/1.60s heads and maybe a hydraulic roller cam. Being that I need to drive the car 20 miles to the track and back and aswell as race 1/4 mile passes. The car is a 1996 Pontiac Firebird with 8 point cage, 1 piece aluminum driveshaft, 4.10 gears with welded spyder gears, polyurethane control arm bushings. I have about $3000 to work with here. If you think the LS route is a better way to go, please tell me. I'm stuck in between. If you have any help or suggestions please tell me!
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Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Wildomar, CA
It depends on what you want to do. If you can do things like modify your own wiring harness instead of having it done it will save some coin. Things like stock manifolds vs headers will save some loot too.
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From: Auckland, Nth Is, New Zealand.
If you are cash strapped & already have a 355 block that has good gear in it, go with that & get it sorted.
Going with the LS1 etc will end up costing you more on set up, you will end up getting a tune for power, exhaust, wiring etc.
You are 16yo just go with the sbc & enjoy with less hassles
Going with the LS1 etc will end up costing you more on set up, you will end up getting a tune for power, exhaust, wiring etc.
You are 16yo just go with the sbc & enjoy with less hassles
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On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
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From: weatherford, tx
If you're like me and want to get the absolute most power with the money you have then I'd go the sbc route. I'd Swap out your crank with a forged stroker crank making it a 383ci and then you'd still have roughly $2500 to build a badass top end and valvetrain. If you do it right you could get pretty close to 600 hp and then spray on top of that if you want more.
Now if gas mileage and reliability is a more important factor then I would go with the LS. They are definitely more efficient motors and usually never have a hard time starting. Its just that the performance parts for them are a bit more expensive than the sbc.
Now if gas mileage and reliability is a more important factor then I would go with the LS. They are definitely more efficient motors and usually never have a hard time starting. Its just that the performance parts for them are a bit more expensive than the sbc.
I have done LS swaps for 1500$. That is without a cam. With a cam the price goes up by whatever you want. The LS is the budget kind, especially carbed. You dont need much to get them going with a carb. The ignition is just over 300$, the intake is 270$ and then manifolds can be used. Now if you dont have access to any junkyards, your screwed. I get 5.3s for 4-500$ all day complete intake to oil pan.
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From: Deep in the heart of Texas
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2004
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I have never seen a junkyard 5.3L go for $500 . Can you provide your parts source???
I have seen SBC in the high 5's in the 1/4 mile . I understand this a LS site , saying SBC are not capable is just plain ignorance.
I have seen SBC in the high 5's in the 1/4 mile . I understand this a LS site , saying SBC are not capable is just plain ignorance.
Last edited by topend; Jun 16, 2013 at 08:54 AM.
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From: Wildomar, CA
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SBC Oil Pan Bolts Hi guys. I'm hoping that someone on here can help me out. I got a remanufactured 2000 350 5.7L long block and used it to replace my dead 305 5.0L. I transferred all the accessories over but the old oil pan didn't have bolts in the two corner holes nearest to the flywheel.
According to everything I've seen on the internet, There are supposed to be two 5/8 18 hex cap bolts in those holes. I picked some up from the hardware store and they fit the other corner holes, but they bottom out without grabbing anything in the block on the flywheel side.
Did Chevy do something weird with their bolts in 2000? The passenger side hole goes deep into the block - dropped a long screwdriver in there no problem.
Any ideas on what size bolts I need?
According to everything I've seen on the internet, There are supposed to be two 5/8 18 hex cap bolts in those holes. I picked some up from the hardware store and they fit the other corner holes, but they bottom out without grabbing anything in the block on the flywheel side.
Did Chevy do something weird with their bolts in 2000? The passenger side hole goes deep into the block - dropped a long screwdriver in there no problem.
Any ideas on what size bolts I need?
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 76
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From: Rochester
If you're like me and want to get the absolute most power with the money you have then I'd go the sbc route. I'd Swap out your crank with a forged stroker crank making it a 383ci and then you'd still have roughly $2500 to build a badass top end and valvetrain. If you do it right you could get pretty close to 600 hp and then spray on top of that if you want more.
Now if gas mileage and reliability is a more important factor then I would go with the LS. They are definitely more efficient motors and usually never have a hard time starting. Its just that the performance parts for them are a bit more expensive than the sbc.
Now if gas mileage and reliability is a more important factor then I would go with the LS. They are definitely more efficient motors and usually never have a hard time starting. Its just that the performance parts for them are a bit more expensive than the sbc.
Decent Camshaft/Springs: 650
Odds and ends: 150
Thousand Bucks, 400hp, great millage. If you can fabricate mounts and have access to a U pull it yard an LS build can be this cheap.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 76
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From: Rochester
2001 Chevrolet GMC Suburban 5 3L Engine 275K | eBay[/ame]"]http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Chevrolet-GMC-Suburban-5-3L-Engine-OEM-275k-/360682414700?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53fa58e26c&vxp=mtr