BBC build help Recommendations
BBC build help Recommendations Okay I got what I was told was an 80s Big block 454. I know nothing about what parts to pick to do this build. Essentially I have the block and the crank and the heads nothing else. I have built a few SBC and I built my lt1. Never messed with a big block.
I have a 7k spending limit to build this engine. I would like to build a reliable 500 hp motor. If I could get closer to 5k awesome as that will allow me to complete the whole drive train. Car has a 12 bolt axle.
So my question is what parts would you buy knowing the budget. How would you build the engine? I will be dropping the block off at the machine shop soon as I figure all the parts out.
I have a 7k spending limit to build this engine. I would like to build a reliable 500 hp motor. If I could get closer to 5k awesome as that will allow me to complete the whole drive train. Car has a 12 bolt axle.
So my question is what parts would you buy knowing the budget. How would you build the engine? I will be dropping the block off at the machine shop soon as I figure all the parts out.
Will need a few more details on what you're planning on doing with it - street, drag, etc. But at least figure a good rotating assy. (steel crank, good rods with ARP bolts). Stock BB stuff is pretty strong, but you only want to build it once, and will probably want more power down the road so a good bottom end is important now. Probably shoot for around 10-1 compression with a set of pocket ported GM oval port heads or World Products, AFR, or Edelbrock oval port heads for a little more $$. A moderate hydraulic roller cam around 240@.050 , and say a Performer RPM dual plane intake with an 850 carb. This is just a very basic recommendation, as everyone has different ideas on how to make power. Bottom line is it won't be hard to make 500 reliable HP out of a 454. 
What is the casting # of the block & heads?
What is the casting # of the block & heads?
dont have the casting numbers on hand. The car will be used exclusively on the street. the engine is going into a 70 chevelle. I want to say the rear end ratio is 3:73 But I will have to check with my step father on that. Honestly the 500 number is just a number My step father picked. since its his engine his money I am just doing what he asks for I am just building the car for him.
The plan is to use a TH400. I Have to pick a stall still.
Would you reuse the crank? besides the fact the engine was caked in oil and dirt there was nothing wrong with then engine.
The plan is to use a TH400. I Have to pick a stall still.
Would you reuse the crank? besides the fact the engine was caked in oil and dirt there was nothing wrong with then engine.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Will need a few more details on what you're planning on doing with it - street, drag, etc. But at least figure a good rotating assy. (steel crank, good rods with ARP bolts). Stock BB stuff is pretty strong, but you only want to build it once, and will probably want more power down the road so a good bottom end is important now. Probably shoot for around 10-1 compression with a set of pocket ported GM oval port heads or World Products, AFR, or Edelbrock oval port heads for a little more $$. A moderate hydraulic roller cam around 240@.050 , and say a Performer RPM dual plane intake with an 850 carb. This is just a very basic recommendation, as everyone has different ideas on how to make power. Bottom line is it won't be hard to make 500 reliable HP out of a 454.
What is the casting # of the block & heads?
What is the casting # of the block & heads?
Use a high pressure and not a high volume oil pump to keep from sucking the oil pan dry.
Be conciensus on valve train weight because the hydraulic roller lifters are heavy and it's easy to float the valves. I prefer solid with block restricters.
You can build a killer $7000 BBC. Use Brodix Big Brodie oval port heads. Call Bullet Cams for a cam. Call Ohio Crankshaft for a 4.25 stroke rotating assy. 4340 steel crank and rods. We built my late wife a 489 with a solid roller cam from Bullet for around $8000. Has JE pistons with around 10.5-1, going to run it on pump gas this year. We have previously ran it with racing gas and about 37 on the timing. Backed it down to 32 for 93 octane.
Teching In
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Simi Valley, California
Here is an idea; how about ANY BBC w/ 454 ci will get to 500 h.p.! with a couple of parts!!!!
Get the crank and block checked, and if good, blueprint the block, as in align hone, deck for trueness, and bore w/ torq plates, cast crank is good to about 650 h.p. and 6500 rpm). The balancing is VERY important so have a reputable shop get it done for you. Must replace the rods or at least the bolts!, (weak point for stock engines), with maybe a set of Scat "I" beams, w/ 7/16ths rod bolts. Get Probe forged at 18 cc, (9.7 to 1) or Speed Pro/ TRW forged pistons at 27cc, (10.5 to 1), both sets with rings available for about $500 even, and with the ProComp heads at 119 c.c. and $1000 for the pair = 525 h.p.; with Brodix cast iron heads at $1500 for the pair, losing a couple of points in compression at 121 c.c. = 550 to 575h.p. (and about 80 lbs heavier), or AFR aluminum 280's at $2600 but at 625 h.p.! (aluminum allows for more compression with less chance of detonation), and all with the larger oval port heads, but not as big as the Rectangular port heads! 850 carb is good for power but touchy with an auto, a 750 vacuum secondary would be better and get better mileage as well. Get a smaller cam, at 112 or 114' lobe centers and maybe 525 to 570 lift and at .050 is about 220 to 230' duration with old style hydraulics and don't forget the additive for breaking in the cams!
These are my general idea's and I am not an engine building "GURU", but I have been doing these BBC's since 1968 with my first Camaro. :-)
Raymond
Get the crank and block checked, and if good, blueprint the block, as in align hone, deck for trueness, and bore w/ torq plates, cast crank is good to about 650 h.p. and 6500 rpm). The balancing is VERY important so have a reputable shop get it done for you. Must replace the rods or at least the bolts!, (weak point for stock engines), with maybe a set of Scat "I" beams, w/ 7/16ths rod bolts. Get Probe forged at 18 cc, (9.7 to 1) or Speed Pro/ TRW forged pistons at 27cc, (10.5 to 1), both sets with rings available for about $500 even, and with the ProComp heads at 119 c.c. and $1000 for the pair = 525 h.p.; with Brodix cast iron heads at $1500 for the pair, losing a couple of points in compression at 121 c.c. = 550 to 575h.p. (and about 80 lbs heavier), or AFR aluminum 280's at $2600 but at 625 h.p.! (aluminum allows for more compression with less chance of detonation), and all with the larger oval port heads, but not as big as the Rectangular port heads! 850 carb is good for power but touchy with an auto, a 750 vacuum secondary would be better and get better mileage as well. Get a smaller cam, at 112 or 114' lobe centers and maybe 525 to 570 lift and at .050 is about 220 to 230' duration with old style hydraulics and don't forget the additive for breaking in the cams!
These are my general idea's and I am not an engine building "GURU", but I have been doing these BBC's since 1968 with my first Camaro. :-)
Raymond
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Teching In
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Take a look at vortecpro.com. Contact Mark Jones and he can help you out. He builds a 700hp 496 with ported factory iron heads for $7k. If the machine shop is building the shortblock, you may be able to send your heads and intake to Mark for porting and come out fairly cheap. The chevelle forum is also a good place for BBC build info. You can easily make 500hp with a plug wire off with your budget, lol.
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To easy to make that power....something like this will get you about 560+HP/550+TQ have great street mannors and good vaccum for power brakes a few parts like intake/carb you can find cheap on craigs list too to lower costs... should be around $5350.00 using name brand quality parts. A few extra parts needed like gaskets..but you get the jist of it. Stay away from Procomp junk, Flat tappet cams and no name parts.
Block fully machined about $600
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...05bi/overview/ $1392.00
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-50459/overview/ $1850
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hr...5-12/overview/ $280
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-91167/overview/ $370
Pushrods $125
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7161/overview/ $125
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qf...0-vs/overview/ $417
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...1-16/overview/ $170
a few parts like intake/carb you can find cheap on craigs list too to lower costs... should be around $5350.00 using name brand quality parts. A few extra parts needed like gaskets..but you get the jist of it. Stay away from Procomp junk, Flat tappet cams and no name parts.Block fully machined about $600
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...05bi/overview/ $1392.00
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-50459/overview/ $1850
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hr...5-12/overview/ $280
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-91167/overview/ $370
Pushrods $125
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7161/overview/ $125
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qf...0-vs/overview/ $417
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...1-16/overview/ $170
The problem I'm having is finding a good block. Anyone have any ideas that don't cost $2,000? I have everything for a factory LS7 but the block has one pitted cylinder. I need a good standard bore 4 bolt main block. The block I have will clean up for later but I don't want to start over with new pistons, balancing and so on.
Al 86 IROC, BBC, Toploader 4 speed, 9" Ford.
Al 86 IROC, BBC, Toploader 4 speed, 9" Ford.
4 bolt main blocks are hard enough to find, let alone a standard bore. We have the largest core supply in the industry and I cant even find that. You will have to buy a Dart block or get lucky to find one on ebay/craigslist and pay a premium.
Take the oval port 454 heads, if they are -781 or -049 casting numbers, add some 2.19 & 1.88 valves or 2.25 & 1.88 valves with nothing more than bowls blended, gasket match if you want.
270 or so hydraulic flat tappet cam, Comp makes an LS6 hydraulic Nostalgia Plus thats like 1800 to 6800 or so with the LS6 sound/idle. RPM air gap intake. Headers for your application. Standard volume oil pump. I like pans with a little more oil capacity. Normal bearings and tolerances. Roller tipped rocker arms. Have the connecting rods re-sized with ARP bolts. Balance for new pistons, stay around 9 or 9.5 - 1 compression ratio. If you keep it as a 454, go with forged pistons, like the L2465 (they are similar to what comes in current crate engines without the crappy metric rings). Cast crank will stand as much power as the block. Two bolt blocks are hell for stout.
If you wanna blow $1200 or so, go for a 496 kit, which is 4.25 inch stroke. Same heads with the big valves and intake.
The compression in the area of 9 - 1 will make the 450-500 mark real easy, with enough room for some nitrous and be as dependable as a sledge hammer.
270 or so hydraulic flat tappet cam, Comp makes an LS6 hydraulic Nostalgia Plus thats like 1800 to 6800 or so with the LS6 sound/idle. RPM air gap intake. Headers for your application. Standard volume oil pump. I like pans with a little more oil capacity. Normal bearings and tolerances. Roller tipped rocker arms. Have the connecting rods re-sized with ARP bolts. Balance for new pistons, stay around 9 or 9.5 - 1 compression ratio. If you keep it as a 454, go with forged pistons, like the L2465 (they are similar to what comes in current crate engines without the crappy metric rings). Cast crank will stand as much power as the block. Two bolt blocks are hell for stout.
If you wanna blow $1200 or so, go for a 496 kit, which is 4.25 inch stroke. Same heads with the big valves and intake.
The compression in the area of 9 - 1 will make the 450-500 mark real easy, with enough room for some nitrous and be as dependable as a sledge hammer.
