Head+Cam Pkg:
why not a hydralic? just wonderin.
new to this cam stuff
I meant as far as how the car will be driven, street. A track car that sees little street time?? Let me know and I can give you some suggestions.
I think you will like the car more if you pick the cam based on how you want to drive it and not horsepower you want to make.
Max power usually = high lift and loads of duration. Your car will be much better on the street if you go with a cam that is smaller, and you will want a spilt duration cam becuase you want to spray it.
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I meant as far as how the car will be driven, street. A track car that sees little street time?? Let me know and I can give you some suggestions.
I think you will like the car more if you pick the cam based on how you want to drive it and not horsepower you want to make.
Max power usually = high lift and loads of duration. Your car will be much better on the street if you go with a cam that is smaller, and you will want a spilt duration cam becuase you want to spray it.
Actually it'll be a street car that sees little or no track time. More than likely it'll be heads+cam+spray, possibly changing crank and stroking to a 383. What do ya think? Serious suggestions please.
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If you plan on stepping up to a 383 which will help performance alot I would suggest a came with 234 or so intake and 238-240 exhuast duration. This duration is measured at .050 lift.
Both of these cams would work good on the street and better on the spray, however you can go bigger if you want to sacrifce some of your low end for higher horsepower numbers and less driveablility.
My sis has a 383 in her 69 camaro with a cam that has something like 240/244 at .050 and alot of lift but it sucks the gas down and though it is a street car she should have gone a little smaller to give it better driveablitly.
I hope I helped you and if you need any more advice just ask, I am a expert by no means but I know enough to help a brother out.
my combo is street driven a bit, still gets 13 mpg at 3500 rpm/70 mph highway speed, and times are listed in sig. 3500 lb car with the following: Canfield 195cc 67 chamber aluminum cylinder heads (no proting or polishing), Holley HP 750 dp carb, Edelbrock Victor JR intake, 1-3/4 headers with 3" full exhaust with tailpipes. TH350 trans, 3400 stall 10" JW convertor and 3.73 geared 12 bolt.
Cam choice: mine is a Crane solid grind (smallest Saturday night special made) .518/.536 lift, 230/238 suration @ 050. Worked great in my 355 (shifting at 6700 rpm, but kept it for my 383 combo b/c still mild enough to be more streetable than the next cam choice higher in their line-up (about 10-15 hp more). I make 372 rwhp, so about 475-490 flywheel ponies.
A solid roller, by the time you figure in springs, lifters and cam, you're looking at close to $1000. Worth it? In most cases yes! Is it more streetable? Again, in most cases yes.
Hope this helps!
Derek
Rear suspension consists of:
Landrum mono-leaf springs
Comp Engineering 3-way adjustable shocks
Comp Engineering Traction bars
Front suspension consists of:
Moroso trick springs
Comp Engineering 3-way adjustable shocks
Energy Suspension poly bushings
That's it! Air the et streets to 14 psi, launch at 1800-2000 and see a small amount of air under the tires every launch

Derek
yeah, definantly helped in many ways, appreciate it. i'll keep u in mind as I get into to this project, especially if I go stroker route. prolly won't be until spring/summer though. gonna buy H/C over winter though. again thnx for the sugestions
My current toy is a full on roller 421, blah, blah, I drive it in a '94 S-10, it runs 10.70s and I still have bugs.
Drivability depends on what you are willing to live with. I've done some really good sounding very daily drivable cars for customers that run good and are well mannered as well. But I'll say this, once you approach the 400 horse mark, things definitely start changing.


