carbed sbc in to a 93-97
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carbed sbc in to a 93-97
i'm interested in this swap, whats involved in doing this?what would i need and what don't i need. anybody that has done this can give me some info.need as much info as i can get. thanx
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You don't have to use a tubular K-member but it is nice if you don't mind spending the $440 dollars to get one from BMR. The guages will have to be some Autometer guages or something like that. Just make your own gauge cluster in the dash or use a gauge pod on the a-piller. Also, just use an electric fuel pump and sump the stock tank. And for headers, you can use regular LT1 headers cause the bolt pattern is the same. And the wiring should not be a problem either.. The stock wiring harness can be unplugged on the passenger side fender. Then just pull out the computer and the rest of the wiring harness that went to the engine. Leave the wiring alone that goes to the front of the car and your lights and stuff will still work..
If you need more help or specifics just let me know..
If you need more help or specifics just let me know..
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Originally Posted by Moparnos
what about the motor mounts?and does the cowl have to be cut to clear intake carb setup?i need trans crossmember for a 400 and custom driveshaft right.
Jeff Georges
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Originally Posted by ProStreetZ28
I'm getting ready to star the same project. My biggest question is how much of the cowl has to be cut out. If anyone has pictures of one I'd like to see them.
Jeff Georges
Jeff Georges
You could always run a quadrajet and save the wipers..
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Originally Posted by Brady
Jeff, per our phone conversation, I found these pics:
You could always run a quadrajet and save the wipers..
You could always run a quadrajet and save the wipers..
Brady, thanks that helps. I needed to see where a dominator ends up. I'm picking up the car in about two weeks. He's emailing pics of the car today sometime. If you find anymore shots email them to me jeffg@yearone.com thanks.
#11
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Well I can shed some light here, since I had to clearance for the Dominator.
Firstly it isn't anywhere near as bad as you think to do the swap. Clearinancing for the dominator was easy. I just had to trim away a middle section of the wiper trim, but it meant that wipers were out of the equation completely.
Also if I didn't do a dominator and went with a lower intake manifold I'd be willing to bet it would fit under the cowl completely. I had a lot of metal to cut out though, and also had to clearance for the distributor, in which case I used an MSD billet distributor.
I have a million pics of the swap and some that show the car in its building process. Here is a small collection of those.
http://community.webshots.com/user/badss97
Firstly it isn't anywhere near as bad as you think to do the swap. Clearinancing for the dominator was easy. I just had to trim away a middle section of the wiper trim, but it meant that wipers were out of the equation completely.
Also if I didn't do a dominator and went with a lower intake manifold I'd be willing to bet it would fit under the cowl completely. I had a lot of metal to cut out though, and also had to clearance for the distributor, in which case I used an MSD billet distributor.
I have a million pics of the swap and some that show the car in its building process. Here is a small collection of those.
http://community.webshots.com/user/badss97
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Originally Posted by Nick@AP-Engineering
Well I can shed some light here, since I had to clearance for the Dominator.
Firstly it isn't anywhere near as bad as you think to do the swap. Clearinancing for the dominator was easy. I just had to trim away a middle section of the wiper trim, but it meant that wipers were out of the equation completely.
Also if I didn't do a dominator and went with a lower intake manifold I'd be willing to bet it would fit under the cowl completely. I had a lot of metal to cut out though, and also had to clearance for the distributor, in which case I used an MSD billet distributor.
I have a million pics of the swap and some that show the car in its building process. Here is a small collection of those.
http://community.webshots.com/user/badss97
Firstly it isn't anywhere near as bad as you think to do the swap. Clearinancing for the dominator was easy. I just had to trim away a middle section of the wiper trim, but it meant that wipers were out of the equation completely.
Also if I didn't do a dominator and went with a lower intake manifold I'd be willing to bet it would fit under the cowl completely. I had a lot of metal to cut out though, and also had to clearance for the distributor, in which case I used an MSD billet distributor.
I have a million pics of the swap and some that show the car in its building process. Here is a small collection of those.
http://community.webshots.com/user/badss97
That helps a BUNCH. How tall of a hood scoop did you go with? At this point for both strength and ease I going to us a front engine plate. Even though this will be a "STREET" car it wont have any of the factory wiring in it. I was wondering if I could keep the dirver's side wiper or do I have to remove both of them? I was looking at the wipers off my brother's 93 and it looked like I could keep it, but I won't know for sure unitl I start on it. If all goes as planned the car should be at my house in two weeks. I already picked up an Ultra-Z hood, I 'm thinking about cutting the scoop off of it and raising the back about 2 1/2 inches to gain clearance for the carb. Also what radiator did you run, did you use the LT1 radiator? How much did you have to clearance the firewall (or cowl) for the MSD dist? Can you get the dist out with the engine in the car?
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the distributor cannot be removed with the engine in the car.. either drop the k-member down or pull the motor out. thats why i bought a msd crank trigger setup and a gutless msd billet distributor. that way there is nothing in the distributor that can go bad or need to be replaced..
#14
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Originally Posted by 1QuickT-A
the distributor cannot be removed with the engine in the car.. either drop the k-member down or pull the motor out. thats why i bought a msd crank trigger setup and a gutless msd billet distributor. that way there is nothing in the distributor that can go bad or need to be replaced..
Even though with the motor and mid plates I could get my engine out in 35 minutes
#15
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Originally Posted by ProStreetZ28
Nick,
That helps a BUNCH. How tall of a hood scoop did you go with? At this point for both strength and ease I going to us a front engine plate. Even though this will be a "STREET" car it wont have any of the factory wiring in it. I was wondering if I could keep the dirver's side wiper or do I have to remove both of them? I was looking at the wipers off my brother's 93 and it looked like I could keep it, but I won't know for sure unitl I start on it. If all goes as planned the car should be at my house in two weeks. I already picked up an Ultra-Z hood, I 'm thinking about cutting the scoop off of it and raising the back about 2 1/2 inches to gain clearance for the carb. Also what radiator did you run, did you use the LT1 radiator? How much did you have to clearance the firewall (or cowl) for the MSD dist? Can you get the dist out with the engine in the car?
That helps a BUNCH. How tall of a hood scoop did you go with? At this point for both strength and ease I going to us a front engine plate. Even though this will be a "STREET" car it wont have any of the factory wiring in it. I was wondering if I could keep the dirver's side wiper or do I have to remove both of them? I was looking at the wipers off my brother's 93 and it looked like I could keep it, but I won't know for sure unitl I start on it. If all goes as planned the car should be at my house in two weeks. I already picked up an Ultra-Z hood, I 'm thinking about cutting the scoop off of it and raising the back about 2 1/2 inches to gain clearance for the carb. Also what radiator did you run, did you use the LT1 radiator? How much did you have to clearance the firewall (or cowl) for the MSD dist? Can you get the dist out with the engine in the car?
Not sure on the wipers, my car was track only really so I just hacked them out and never looked back.
I used an LS1 radiator. The LT1 water pump has three ports, thus three hoses coming off of it. This is not the case with an SBC or an LS1 for that matter. So since we had the shop cars factory radiator laying around, that is what went in. I took some welding rods and bent them into the shape I needed for my hoses and off to Autozone I went. Found some hoses that would fit my application and we had water coursing its veins in no time.
I used a motor plate as well for my set-up, and getting the engine in and out was no issue. Un-hook the carb, radiator, altenator, starter, and un-bolt the tranny and you are set. I was able to get my motor to slide forward enough with the headers still attached, so that I could service the distributor. Lack of A/C helps here immensely. Then out she comes, in all it took me about 35-45 minutes with a picker and hoist to get the motor out of the car at the shop. While it was easy, not nearly as convenient as using a crank trigger set-up would be.
If you have any questions as you get this project underway feel free to ask. I know there were times I searched high and low for posts about this subject and there aren't that many.
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I to am looking at doing this swap I've waited quite some time to do it and now that i've found others who have done and are doing this swap I'm in Iraq so hopefully this fall when I get home I can start on it, any help or unusual stuff you guy's could tell me about is great.what size wheels and slicks can you get under the 93-97's stock wheel well? Is it hard to fab a crossmember for a th350? Thanks
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Originally Posted by Nick@AP-Engineering
The hood my car is a custom piece by Roger at US Exotics. It is his version of the SS hood, but has the cowl raised 2" higher than normal. Also the underside of the cowl is gutted, so there is plenty of room to clear the carb.
Not sure on the wipers, my car was track only really so I just hacked them out and never looked back.
I used an LS1 radiator. The LT1 water pump has three ports, thus three hoses coming off of it. This is not the case with an SBC or an LS1 for that matter. So since we had the shop cars factory radiator laying around, that is what went in. I took some welding rods and bent them into the shape I needed for my hoses and off to Autozone I went. Found some hoses that would fit my application and we had water coursing its veins in no time.
I used a motor plate as well for my set-up, and getting the engine in and out was no issue. Un-hook the carb, radiator, altenator, starter, and un-bolt the tranny and you are set. I was able to get my motor to slide forward enough with the headers still attached, so that I could service the distributor. Lack of A/C helps here immensely. Then out she comes, in all it took me about 35-45 minutes with a picker and hoist to get the motor out of the car at the shop. While it was easy, not nearly as convenient as using a crank trigger set-up would be.
If you have any questions as you get this project underway feel free to ask. I know there were times I searched high and low for posts about this subject and there aren't that many.
Not sure on the wipers, my car was track only really so I just hacked them out and never looked back.
I used an LS1 radiator. The LT1 water pump has three ports, thus three hoses coming off of it. This is not the case with an SBC or an LS1 for that matter. So since we had the shop cars factory radiator laying around, that is what went in. I took some welding rods and bent them into the shape I needed for my hoses and off to Autozone I went. Found some hoses that would fit my application and we had water coursing its veins in no time.
I used a motor plate as well for my set-up, and getting the engine in and out was no issue. Un-hook the carb, radiator, altenator, starter, and un-bolt the tranny and you are set. I was able to get my motor to slide forward enough with the headers still attached, so that I could service the distributor. Lack of A/C helps here immensely. Then out she comes, in all it took me about 35-45 minutes with a picker and hoist to get the motor out of the car at the shop. While it was easy, not nearly as convenient as using a crank trigger set-up would be.
If you have any questions as you get this project underway feel free to ask. I know there were times I searched high and low for posts about this subject and there aren't that many.
Thanks, I'm sure I'll be hitting you up for advice along the way. Since mine is going to be more of a race car then a street car it won't have any a/c, ABS, air bags, stereo etc.
I was thinking about cutting a hole in the cowl above the dist and making making a cover plate and using dzus buttons so that I could lift the dis out of the motor in the car. What do you think, is the dist back behind the windshield far to to do that?
#19
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Originally Posted by ProStreetZ28
Nick,
Thanks, I'm sure I'll be hitting you up for advice along the way. Since mine is going to be more of a race car then a street car it won't have any a/c, ABS, air bags, stereo etc.
I was thinking about cutting a hole in the cowl above the dist and making making a cover plate and using dzus buttons so that I could lift the dis out of the motor in the car. What do you think, is the dist back behind the windshield far to to do that?
Thanks, I'm sure I'll be hitting you up for advice along the way. Since mine is going to be more of a race car then a street car it won't have any a/c, ABS, air bags, stereo etc.
I was thinking about cutting a hole in the cowl above the dist and making making a cover plate and using dzus buttons so that I could lift the dis out of the motor in the car. What do you think, is the dist back behind the windshield far to to do that?
Firstly I used a set of Hooker Longtubes that I had on my LT1. Same headers.
Also I had at least 4-5" above the distributor once it was installed, so as far as adjusting the distributor that was no issue. However, it actually sits under the lip of the windshield. So if you were thinking of making a hole in the cowl to remove the distributor that will not work.