warpwr

You can do that with a diesel engine too.
I like cali99SS's engine.
A small block can get to 7500 RPM real quick.
With 4:11's (or lower) plus traction that translates into going 1320 feet real quick too.

Cali99SS

iTrader: (1)

Thank you. That run was 600/sec. The dyno was almost pegged on the brake. But yes it does spin very quickly.

Poor Kid

If you want to spin a motor past 7000 rpm, its a race motor. To make power with a small inch motor you need to stuff all the compression you can and spin it really high (8500-9500). If you dont do it that way, your just wasting money and time. My current combination is a BBC, but it is the same kind of animal that you are thinking about. It is a 399 big block that gets spun to 9200 on every pass. I'm starting a new combo for an NMCA Mean Street car. Its a SBC 323ci, has to make between 750 and 800 hp n/a to be competitve. Its cool sounding stuff, but i would never try and drive it on the street. To much maint. and checking stuff and 116 fuel is to expensive to be just driving around. If you want to see what it takes to build one, my site has a complete parts list from my chevelle, and videos.

hondo

iTrader: (2)

the factors are....how much money you have and how long you want it to live....

Sparetire

Nothing wrong with going for a high rpm build. Theres a reason people loved hot rod 327s. They are fun.

Also, high revs and the right valve train will make for a very very nasty wide powerband that can use the kinds of gearing that are just not so streetable in a low-rev motor.

That said, its not the road more traveled or the easy route. Revs kill motors more than anything else IMHO.

Get light pistons. Get rods as long as practical. That means youre going to have to take into account where the wrist pin is located in your pistons. Long rods help you run sensible clearances by reducing side-loading on the pistons. Less side load is very good when your runnign at 8K

A short stroke will reduce the stress on the bottom end too. Short strokes keep piston velocities down.

And then theres the top end. Strong valve train. Like somebody said, great springs. Light/strong retainers. I really dont know what sort of rocker ratio to go with in this app, but someone will for sure. Basicly, you need a head that can not only survive high RPM, but feed the motor effectively while your at it. So probably a pretty aggressive cam. Get used to the idle

And of course the often mentioned balancing. Super critical. You might want to cryo treat everything too.

My .05

Sparetire

Turbos have the effect of making the power lower down, and father along too. Unless your running a monster 96MM or something, you will be building boost by 3K, meaning insane midrange punch.

Now if you make power from 3 to 8, life is good

But honestly its depends on the setup a lot. If that 8K setup is a high compression car with a huge LSA, a turbo might not be the way to go. If the 6K motor is alow compression with a moderate LSA, hello boost.

If its a 8K low compression motor, a big turbo might be the ticket. Who knows. Keep in mind that a SBC running high rpms will east all the airflow a smaller turbo can provide and fall flat on its face at high RPM.

67SS&99SS

iTrader: (7)

When it comes to high winding Chevrolet 302s, Jerry Macneish is the man. People from all over the country get him to rebuild their factory 302s and tune the carbs and distributors for them. Here is a link to a factory 68 Z/28 drag car that he now owns and currently races. http://www.z28camaro.com/oldrel.html

Dirty

i was toying with the idea to use my stock 327 small journal out of my 67 camaro and make it s a 10k rpm 302. but it lost its allure after a while. but here is all the part #'s and stuff for a 302. find a 327 and nitrite a 289 crank then get parts that match up with this web sites part #'s
www.holisticpage.com/camaro/camaros/302.htm

67SS&99SS

iTrader: (7)

You mean a 283 crank, right? A 289 is a ford crankshaft my friend . I don't think the General would like that kind of stuff in a chevrolet block.

LFNDUST

I hate to chime in and just add a post that really has nothing to do with the tread...but..

When I was like 16 I worked at a gas station...and...a mechanic there had this chevelle that rev'd to like 11k ...its sounded like a damn honda

ram09

iTrader: (1)

I would get a new block with a 4.125 inch bore and put a 3 inch stroke crank it. That makes 320 Cubic Inches. You get more cubic inches and maintain a very short stroke, But that just what I want and that combination should spin very very high.

CTSmechanic

iTrader: (2)

You'd be better off buying a used 358 inch 18 deg motor from the NASCAR West series there switching to a carb'd LS1 based motor next season these things should be able to be bought for 5 to 13k dry sump there arent many series left that run 18 deg motors anymore...Before NASCAR imposed the ratio rule teams were building motors that would run 11,000+ Rpm for a few hours at a time....

Bo Duke01

do they use oem blocks to make these by any chance? if they do ill be picking one of these up for my street stock soon.

CTSmechanic

iTrader: (2)

If your talking about the west motors they use 184 blocks "Bowtie"