LilRick

I'm about to send my 4 bolt 350 off to the engine shop and pour a buttload of money into it. When it comes to engine combinations it makes me feel like i'm in alebra 2 again Here's what I'm looking at so far, if you have any suggestions please post them. Thats why I'm asking you guys, I'm a rookie when it comes to building engines.

I'm looking into a forged 383, I've always heard good things about 383's and I plan on spraying eventually. I priced an eagle rotating assembly. It's a balanced, forged kit. H beam rods, forged 4340 crank, with -7.00cc. dome pistons.

I already have a lunati bracket master II cam in the 350. I had planned to reuse it. Its a hydraulic flat tappet, 292/292 duration, .480/.480 lift. I was told that was the biggest I could go with stock pistons. It's power rated for 2000-6000rpm. I'm guessing I can go bigger with the new pistons?

Also, I'm looking at a set of AFR heads, from what I've read the 195cc's and the 210cc's are about what I should be looking at for a 383. What do you guys suggest?

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

You're set up is EXACTLY like im running, but ill be the first to tell you that cam is gonna suck ***** on that 383, those cubes are gonna need to breath better, try to get something along the lines of a 230* @.050 and 510-520" lift, on a 112-113 LSA its a stout, streetable cam that will breath good especially if you want to huffy some laughing gas, you're also gonna want to go with at least the 195cc runner heads, the 210's work magically on my motor,and if you're building a pretty hardcore engine, you should start with a 2 bolt and get the splayed 4 bolt caps installed, its stronger than a standard 4 bolt block, heres my set up just to give you an example

2 bolt block converted to splayed 4 bolt, half fill with block filler,eagle 4340 3.75" stroker crank, eagle 4340 5.7" h-beam rods, SRP .040" forged flat tops, (10.8:1CR) afr 210 race heads, 5 angle valve job, bullet solid roller cam 265/276 @.050 .630/.635" lift 110 LSA, Pete Jackson "noisy" gear drive, vrictor jr intake, fully prepped Holley 950 HP carb, 200 shot direct port, 100 shot plate, msd crank trigger and dist. msd digital 7+

now keep in mind, mine is a track car, but with a less aggressive cam, and a smaller carb this thing could run the streets on pump gas all day.

CNC BLOCKS N/E

That cam is a little to big for what you are doing if your looking for torque. On the hydraulic cams we run we have used a 1.130 base circle and with the Scat 6 inch rods with 7/16 bolts ther is pleanty of clearance.

Here is a link on an engine we built for a customer and we used the AFR's on this engine but we have built a few 383's with some well prepared 906 Vortec heads and have had the same results with torque and Horse power.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...highlight=DYNO

LilRick

ok guys here's what i've come up with. Tell me what you think.

-4 bolt 350 milled for 383 kit
-4340 forged eagle crank with 3.75" stroke
- .30 over forged aluminum eagle pistons with -5cc flat tops
-forged steel 4340 H beam rods 5.7"
-internally balanced
-11.8:1 compression
-VIC jr intake
-Lunati voodoo cam 241 intake/249exhaust dur@.50" 525/546 lift 2,500-6,600rpm

Not sure on this, It's just a suggestion. I checked on the 4-7 swap but all the ones i found make power from 4000 up. I don't know if I want to rev the thing to 7 grand, or maybe that would be better, hell i don't know.

-Afr 210cc aluminum heads, 76cc combustion chambers,

And of course ARP bolts and studs for the heads
for the rest of the drivetrain I was thinkin along the lines of 3200 stall, th350, and either 3.73s or 4.10s (possibly a th400 but I already have the th350)

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

that setup sounds right on key, yeah you can spin that motor to 7 if you want, provided the motor is fully balanced and blueprinted, but with the rpm band starting at 4k you looking at pretty much a track car, that thing would be a dog off the line and around town. and second with 11.8 CR you're pretty close to having to either mix race fuel with 93 octane or run race fuel, ive heard people say you can run 12.5:1 on pump gas, but i experienced pinging and detonation past 5000 rpms with 93 octane and 12:1 so i dont usually go over 11.5 but thats just personal preference.

LilRick

Well in that case, I guess I could go with a little deeper piston, right? like a -7cc inverted flat piston?

The lunati voodoo cam says its rated around 2,500-6,600. with a 3000 stall, would that still be somewhat streetable.

OR!! This ones way out of left field. Eagle offers a forged kit with a 6" rod, but the pistons have a -16cc inverted dome, which quotes 10.4:1 compression.

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

im surprised the -5CC pistons with 76cc combustion chambers will give you 11.8:1 CR to begin with. that cam is a little smaller than my last one and i daily drove it with a 4k stall, so that cam with the 3k stall is totally streetable. 10.5:1-11.5:1 is good for street motors, you should be fine with the rotating assembly you already picked out, just run a thicker head gasket

LilRick

Thanks man. It'll be a week or two before they start on the engine so i'll have some time to shop around. I appreciate the help.

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

getting opinions from the machine shop you're working with will help out alot too, i mean they're doing the work and they do it for a living so they could help you out with some of the technical stuff. If you have any more questions feel free to post em up or PM me

Cali99SS

iTrader: (1)

181911 JE Pistons. -5cc flattop piston. 3.75 stroke, 6" rod. Your engine will last longer with the longer rods (better rod length to stroke ratio). More lift on the cam would help too.