moge11

That is HYDRAULIC ROLLER. How big is that cam in your 882 headed motor. If you think a 9.4:1 355 with 882's, ported or not, is making 450hp, then my Well thought out 350 is making 475hp, J/K. But seriously, a T5 DRIVETRAIN, rear included, TOPS 15%. AND yes, a 750, might be better suited, but I need a little growing room, and I really dont think it will be OVER carbed.

joewee350

You might very will have 425hp on an engine dyno but after you bolt on all accessories you will see something like a 25% loss to the wheels. So 315-320whp and put that in a 3200lbs ride with a good launch and you will see a mid/low 12. Get it going so you can either shut us up or we can say we told you so.

This reminds me of my supposed "400hp" engine that did a 13.8 @ 100mph. After new heads, intake and carb its running 12.7 @ 107 on street tires so right now Im around 325whp. Reality happens at the track when you dont get the numbers you think you will.

moge11

yeah and 1997bird thinks an 882 headed 9.4:1 355 is making 450 hp LMFAO! Like I said, If thats true about his motor, My Vortec is making 450-500.
What accessories? An alternator and a P/S pump? Electric water pump.

joewee350

You have gotten opinions about your setup. Theres no point going on and on arguing your setup. Everyone read what you have and posted what they think it will put down. Come back with the numbers.

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

I have 90 hrs of port work in those 882 heads with 2.055 int valves and 1.6 exh. The machinest who flow tested them was suprised as well. I have a solid flat tappet cam, the Adv duration is 274/280, @ .050" 236/242, .485"/.494" NET lift, LSA is 110*+4*. At 6800 ft actual elevation it runs beside my friends 97' Toyota Supra Twin Turbo car that runs a 13.5 second 1/4 mile at 5200 ft actual elevation. This is without any sticky's, but on street tires. At 4900 ft actual elevation he dyno'd 302 HP to the rear wheels in his Supra, this number was not SAE corrected.

moge11

what do they flow. Not trying to bash you. But like you, I AM capable. Sooo, dont bash me.I dont wanna ruin my welcome here. I will have about 60 or so hours in my heads when completed. I too am contemplating 2.055 valves. I am pretty sure the seats can take it. Do you know for sure? If so, then I will be doing it. I will be cutting the guides and spring pockets myself. Screw in stud machining and milling...$50( I know people, if I didnt, I wouldnt be using these heads 'cause they are not worth the money) If I dont go over $500, I am OK.)

232/242 510/525 on a 110 hyd. ROLLER OR
236/246 .510/.512 on a 112 hyd. FLAT?
Which would you use and why? I have both right here in my possession.

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

I would keep your valve combo to a 2.02/1.6 valve combo, to keep valve shrouding to a minimum. I have the large 76 cc cumbution chambers on my 882's. I am sorry for the bashing comments that I made I should have practiced more restaint. If you did go with the 2.055 valve you should have no problem's with the heads being able to accept them. But again with the 64 cc combution I would think that you would be better off with the 2.02. I miss read about the HR cam part, my mistake! I would stay with the HR cam because it would fit your engine build better by giving you more low end torque, but still able to run upstairs. Also the ideal LSA on your engine would be about 108* according to David Vizard. He does alot of just dynoing different combo's for a living, recently Popular Hot Rodding has been showing alot of his expertise in their magizine. Another advantage of the HR cams is the TQ increase that they give the engine from free'd up friction loss. The carb tuning is probably going to be a nightmare for you though. I am running a 750 Mighty Demon on that Camaro (I think that I drive it more than my dad does.) and it is running fat at the moment. The Demon carbs look the same on the outside as Holly but are tuned completely different. They take some time to figure out the right combo of jets, squirters, and accelerator pump cams. They are tuned as a combo not just by changing jets out.

moge11

I read his(Vizard) books REliGIOUSLY! I have also read that GARY(GMPP rep) said every time valve size was increased, up to a 2.05, flow increased as long as bowl work was done to compensate.
But SERIOUSLY, if YOU were to do the work to the heads, using my combo, what do you think you could come up with. This is NOT my first motor, nor is it my first port job. But, it will be my first TRACK PROVEN port job. My first try was a set of IRON L98 heads that I bought bowl blended and port matched and started Fully porting them. They are not finished all the way yet. They look good though. I want to finish them and compare them on the trackto my Ported Vortecs. The way I bought them, they ran 8.50's@84mph in the 1/8. 360ci,flattops, comp 218 .454" cam, RPM intake, Eddy 750carb, 700R4 w/STOCK converter, 3.23's, slippin' and slidin', with Shorties and flex pipe with Flows dumped. This was on a friends car from Parkland college in the automotive program. Yeah, I have been to school too. I built a 406ci with the above mentioned Flat tappet, and TFS Twisted Wedges, 11.5:1,...Dont know what it would of run.. Sold the car(82 Z-28)

I too apologize. But you were treating me like noob, and I'm NOT! But I am young. Dont want to say how young cause you might doubt me. LOL.

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

If it was my set of heads I would not be useing the standard 11/32" valve stem. I would utilize the 8 mm valve stem valves for my increase in flow numbers. You can pick these valves up for the price as the 11/32", all you have in price increase is the cost of new guides & machine work. I would use a 2.00" int valve and a 1.6" exhaust valve. I am currently working on a set up like this for one of my customer's. I am going to say that they should flow in the neighbor hood of 270 cfm @ .500 lift int and 210 cfm @ .500 lift exhaust. As far as the age I have a good idea of about how old you are. No offence trying to be given here. As far as knowledge goes it doesn't always go by age as for how much you know.

moge11

How old do you think I am? And.. you're right age has nothing to do with knowledge or skill. It is one desire and ability to learn and take advice from others who know. Thats why I am now asking for ANY advice you have to give me. But No new guides right now, when the valves go in, MAYBE. I actually just came inside from doing a little Port Work just see if you responded. I am gonna make this car run 11.XX with this combo. I know its capable. Your help will be greatly appreciated. Any ideas you got, Start talkin'. I'm all ears.
Why the 2.00 intake and not the 2.02. Any specific reasoning? Better I/E ratio??? Am I thinking right?
Are you saying YOUR heads flow 270ish, or do you think MY heads CAN flow that. I think mine COULD. I would like them too. I am gonna try my damndest. I will check back in a few. If you are gonna be around, I will talk to you on here a little.
I dont have a lot of money in these heads($50 so far), so I want to use them and MAKE MY OWN HORSEPOWER, Not BUY IT, as I would be doing if I bought AFR's or the like.
Thanx, Morgan

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

last time i had a vortec headed car was in 99' and it was originally a t5
3rd gen camaro, i broke 3 t5's with a rear from a m6 96 lt1 with the stock 3.42 gears, unless u install it with gforce stuff right off the bat, u will quickly have to swap the broken one, those t5's are claymores under a hi tq, hi rpm
hi hp engine, the engine i had it with was a 355ci sbc late model roller vortec block, with stock cam, vortec heads machined for lt1 valve seals, and springs,
ith screw in studs. and a bowl blend job, with polished chambers and exhaust ports, it was also a blo thru with a 750 dp and a t3/t4 holset turbo
it was fun with t5 but not kwik, i finally went mid 11's with a th400 and stock converter . it was just basically a junk yard diy build, but it was fun,
but the t5 is a joke for any serious engine and drivetrain, in stock or rebuilt form even with the wc stuff, gforce stuff is whole nother story tho.
i would go with a t56 if u really want to go manual.
ps
i still own a t5 from those days, its been sitting in the same place in the garage for a few yrs.
its for sale, and so is a ls1 t56

moge11

how much for the T5? Yeah I will be babying the T5 on the street. I know the history of the tranny, and its been babied...until my little brother got it, but he only abused with the stock 305 tbi. Its a 92 RS 305 tranny, 112,000mi. with 5000mi from my brother and a fresh rebuild. Yeah I will break in just a few passes probably. The original NWC tranny in my car will NEVER get beat on. It will be a tranny to keep the car driveable while I am building the Gforce in a couple of months.
I would like a T56, but they are a good 50lbs heavier. the T5 requires NO MODS to put in. I already have a Centerforce DF clutch and a B&M Ripper that came in my car and only have about 3Kmiles on them. I also have a B&M SPORT shifter my brother put in his car. Sooo, weighing up the cost and time of a Gforce insall over the T56, I am going with the Gforce T5. I will have a T56 when I buy my first LS1 car, which will be in 2008 when my bike is paid off and the motor is in the IROC with a new paint and restored interior. I would say when the IROC is "done", but we all know that NEVER happens.

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

My reasoning behind the 2" valve is that it would be less shrouded in the combution chamber. I will not be sacrificing very much, meanwhile the smaller valve stem has less port restriction by .028" without a undercut valve. This should be good for 20 cfm just from the valve change on the int and 30 cfm + or - on the exhaust. I think that my version will flow about 270 int / 210 exh @.500 with the proper port work. I feel that I can only acurrately describe my work from previous porting work that has been flow tested.

moge11

WOW! That's a HUGE gain! I will be talking to my neighbor(4 small town blocks away) and see how much he would charge me to put guides in. That is MOST DEFINITELY worth it. Thanks for your input. Anything else you want to share? Yeah this is gonna be a learning experience. We will see how good my hand is. Hopefully its pretty good. I want know everything you know about these heads. HELP! LOL.
How much can you get me a set of valves for?

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

I have a few part #'s for you from Ferrea, int valve F6266 & exh valve F6267. That gives you close to a .100 long SBC valve length to run the 1.80" installed height valve springs with minimal fitting. The F6266 is 2.02" and the F6267 is 1.6". At this point and time I am not a sponsor yet and am referring you to www.SDPC2000.com. They have great prices on Ferrea valves (close to my cost), the intake valve should run close to $12.25 each and the exh valve should be $11.75 each.

moge11

Thanx, I appreciate it. Once again, anything you can help me with or any suggestions you have, I will listen to. You have more knowledge and experience than I do. That's why I am here now. I am frequent flyer over at Thirdgen.org, but there are only a FEW that have any real knowledge on subjects as this one. Most tend to be newbies, or entry level enthusiasts. You guys here at LS1Tech seem to be much more knowledgeable, such as yourself, with real, No BS, experience.
LS1Tech will be my new site for real answers.
Thanx again for your help,
Morgan

moge11

Just finished up one of my exhaust ports. Spent a good 75-90 minutes just MOSTLY reworking the valve guide boss area. The boss looks BEAUTIFUL, PERFECT! I am so impressed with looks of my results. I will try to get some pics up in the next week or two for you guys to see. They look truely impressive!
Sometimes I amaze myself.LOL .

Just did some more work. Spent 2-1/2 hrs. Finished up the exhaust port mentioned above that I worked on yesterday and am almost finished with another exhaust port. They are turning out great. I have about 10 hrs total in them so far. 2 ex more or less finished and 2 intake, bowls only so far, done. I have a lot to go, but they are coming along nicely.

moge11

bump. read above post. Added/edited it a minute ago.

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

Moge, do you kno why CNC heads are desirable? Because of more consistent ports. I think you need to redirect for more consistency from port to port.

Ben T.

moge11

I have about 2 hrs in EACH exhaust port. They are VERY consistent. The times listed is the amount for each work session due to working OUTSIDE in a shed in 30* weather! Wait 'til I post pics. These ports are awesome. WAAAAYYY better than my first attempt at porting a set of heads.
I shouldn't have said I finished the 'PORT" in the first sentence in above post, I finished shaping the guide boss and doing a little bowl work. So far the work is very minimal in the runner itself. There is more work to be done. For consistency's sake, I am moving on to the other ports. When they are "caught up" to the other ports, I will go back for finishing touches. Like I said, I have "real good idea of how to do this". It isn't rocket science, but its a damn close 2nd. Its takes time, patience, and a little know-how to do this right. It aint for everybody.