its alive! solid roller stroker
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From: greenville sc
its alive! solid roller stroker well i got the car running and and in the process of a little break in procedure with some non detergent oil for about 30 minutes of light driving..... everything is going fine and the car seems to be running decent concidering the carb is from a 350ci 300ish hp car as far as the jets and powervalve go.... tonight after about 40 miles or so of light driving i changed the oil with some regular GTX castrol and gave it a little more throttle and got a lil higher in the rpms and when i parked it i noticed some fresh oil underneath the front of the motor under the K member.... i checked the front main seal and it seemed to be dry and around the valve covers..... i cant finf where this oil came from and it didnt come until i got around 4,000 rpms?? what do you guys think? i tell you it has been one thing after another with this project though and im almost beat with issues coming up around every corner..... it really takes the fun out of trying to do this stuff on your own and trying to enjoy a project like this..... i always thought that carb old school cars were easier to get going and have everything going right..... well i guess the only thing thats easier is the space you have to work cause tuning it aint no fun either..... other than that i feel like the car is running around 60% potential due to the carb being out of whack but i didnt get over 4,000 rpms either but i could tell it wanted more rpms when it got up high...... but after all the problems now i have this oil leak from the front of the motor that seems that someone just put some oil as a prank there cause i cant seem to understand wher ethe hell it came from..... by the way that was a joke cause its just weird cause there is no leak that i can see on the front of the motor that could have shot it or pumped it out front like that...... suggestions? jake
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Small block Chevys have a tapped hole in the front of the block, passenger side that goes all the way through in to the fuel pump push rod galley. It's plugged from the factory with a very short 3/8th's bolt.
No need for detergent less oil for break-in, in fact it may be missing some important additives and causing damage.
Run the Castrol with Comp cams break-in additive or the GM EOS additive. Or use the Brad Penn oil.
No need for detergent less oil for break-in, in fact it may be missing some important additives and causing damage.
Run the Castrol with Comp cams break-in additive or the GM EOS additive. Or use the Brad Penn oil.
I had that exact same problem when i first fired mine. Common mistake and easy to fix.
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From: greenville sc
dang i think thats what it was then.... i noticed there was 2 bolt holes on each side of the block..... i did put 2 arp 3/8 bolts in each hole on the left and nothing got oil on it today after more miles than yesterday and harder rpms...... each day i am gradually giving it more rpms but still havent got much over 4,500 rpms just a few times..... first 50 miles i babied it then changed the oil and then gave it a lil harder throttle but still not alot.... i still have not touched the carb yet with this new motor...... my buddy is the carb guru so i am waiting on him..... but whats the chance of this motor really waking up after have the correct power valve and jet it correctly? like i say it was tuned for a 270ish rwhp car that ran 8.9s at 82mph and now on a 450ish rwhp car? it runs strong but feels like it really needs to be tuned and bigger jets and maybe a lil more timing..... i know for break in we have it set at a pretty safe timing..... its fast but i hope it really wakes up after i fix all the exuast leaks and get the carb setup right..... wish me luck
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It should want roughly 34-36 degrees of timing. If it's not locked out, I'd definately run a higher base timing and a small advance. If you're distributor has the bushings and weights and springs for changing the ignition curve, not sure what you have there. This will keep everything running clean/hot at idle and cruise. Plugs will stay clean even with that cranky camshaft.
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From: greenville sc
i am running around 30 degrees right now with a 5.5 power valve that did fine on my old 350 junkyard motor but i think this new motor dont like it as much.... i had to wait till tommarow till my buddy had his lift available to put on the magnafow exaust kit and get rid of this setup with leaks galore.... while im installing the exaust kit my buddy will be installing the powervalve and rejetting the carb......hopefully will be a whole new car after we are done with these things
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From: greenville sc
well i put the 3.5 power valve in and sealed up all my exaust leaks and its running a ton better! i cant wait to get the jet size dialed in perfect and add about 5 to 6 more degrees of timeing to it! it seems to have around 450ish rwhp as it sits but its hard to tell cause these cars are natually a little lighter than say an LT1 or LS1 and thats what i am used to having
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You need to lock the distributor and set it 34-36* as stated above, and 4500rpm C'mon give it rip or two. Hell 4500 is just getting into the power, cruise up to 4500 let off and NAIL IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dont be Skeeeeerd! It wont break......
Dont be Skeeeeerd! It wont break......
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From: greenville sc
well i posted a lil something on the first day at the track..... it has a 2,000 TCI stockish stall so this engine does not like it at al unless i am already cruising.... when i stop at a redlight it wants me to put it in nuteral until im ready to go again..... we went through the carb and did all the tweeking we could and it got better buit will still die out if i leave it in gear too long on the brake..... so at the track i had to lightly shift into 1st gear and then give it gas and it still went a 8.41 by that it makes me know i could actually run 7.9s or better when i put the right converter in this car on street tires!
on a side note i broke a rocker stud the other night and dont know why..... some say my springs are too strong for my setup and i might need a stud gurdle? i hear that makes adjusting the rockers take twice as long! is there a stronger stud i could use like maybe a billet or forged stud so i dont break anymore? thanks, jake
on a side note i broke a rocker stud the other night and dont know why..... some say my springs are too strong for my setup and i might need a stud gurdle? i hear that makes adjusting the rockers take twice as long! is there a stronger stud i could use like maybe a billet or forged stud so i dont break anymore? thanks, jake
What rocker, what spring diameter? Studs dont just break from too much springs pressure unless their stock or old, there may some other gremlins at work. Have you checked the underside of the rockers for contact with the retainers?
As far as stud girdles go I'm not a huge fan unless you spin it over 7000rpm on a regular basis. Some of them make lashing valves a pain, but for the most part as long as you stay away from the Moroso u-bolt type you'll be fine.
You need at LEAST a 3500, but I would run a 4000-4400ish converter that will let it ilde at a grand in gear and flash right to the fat part of the power when you blip the throttle.
Hit up Fuddle they can build you EXACTLY what you need at a very fair price. make sure you mention me so I get the brownie points for the referal LOL!
Again what Carb and Compression are you running?
As far as stud girdles go I'm not a huge fan unless you spin it over 7000rpm on a regular basis. Some of them make lashing valves a pain, but for the most part as long as you stay away from the Moroso u-bolt type you'll be fine.
You need at LEAST a 3500, but I would run a 4000-4400ish converter that will let it ilde at a grand in gear and flash right to the fat part of the power when you blip the throttle.
Hit up Fuddle they can build you EXACTLY what you need at a very fair price. make sure you mention me so I get the brownie points for the referal LOL!
Again what Carb and Compression are you running?
That carb is NOT enough, buy a 950 HP and call it a day. It will pay HUGE dividends right out of the box, check this out. I had a 12.5:1 355 Brodix heads, .670"/268* and I picked up 23 peak whp by bolting on an out of the box 950 HP, this was a direct swap for a worked quickfuel 850 double pumper and NO other changes were made.....
Look here; http://holley.com/applications/Carbu...bSelection.asp
Oh yeah ditch the Hollywood tires LOL!
Look here; http://holley.com/applications/Carbu...bSelection.asp
Oh yeah ditch the Hollywood tires LOL!
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From: greenville sc
yeah but the 700dp will have to do for a while.... see all of this stuff is brand new and its just a cruiser not a race car so i can stand for losing a lil power due to not having the most perfect setup as long as i dont have to buy anything else, but if something breaks i will upgrade!...... now on my YSI car thats a different story! lol
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From: Champaign IL
I dont care whatcha say, thats a RACE motor. That thing oughta fly. It may streetable, I would drive it everyday if I worked close to home. Put the 950HP on it. It will probably be more streetable too. Just run better all together.
i had to jet the 750 double pumper to get my 12.5:1 350 to even idle, so i know you could use a little more carb. mine was doing the same thing in gear as yours but now mine will idle with a 2700 to 3000 stall with no problems. this made my 68 camaro much more pleasurable to drive because i could actually go through town with it.
no, too small of a carb. i had a vac. secondary carb. and it was dieing at idle. put the 750d/p on and jetted it and had no more problems. my stall is supposed to be around 2700-3000 so i could drive in town without burning up the trans.