small block guru's inside
small block guru's inside built a 355 for my s10. seems like a turd. 10-1 bottom end, world sportsman 2 heads, sportsman intake, 750 edelbrock, cam specs as follows- comp
Duration Advertised: 274° Intake / 286° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 230° Intake / 236° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .490'' Intake / .490'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 110°
has headers and all the other stuff. can anyone see anything wrong with this combo? gunna try a holly carb. advance or retard the cam? any pointers greatly appreciated.
Duration Advertised: 274° Intake / 286° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 230° Intake / 236° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .490'' Intake / .490'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 110°
has headers and all the other stuff. can anyone see anything wrong with this combo? gunna try a holly carb. advance or retard the cam? any pointers greatly appreciated.
weak *** 10 bolt caused me some body work
. im gunna go 8.8 outa a exploder. i will try holly and report back thanks guys. Well, a 10 bolt 8.5 might be an easier swap srom another vehicle? But, it should run great, from the lift it looks like a flat tappet, if it was not broken in with the proper oil and springs, it can make a great cam idle like stock and eventually start backfiring.
built a 355 for my s10. seems like a turd. 10-1 bottom end, world sportsman 2 heads, sportsman intake, 750 edelbrock, cam specs as follows- comp
Duration Advertised: 274° Intake / 286° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 230° Intake / 236° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .490'' Intake / .490'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 110°
has headers and all the other stuff. can anyone see anything wrong with this combo? gunna try a holly carb. advance or retard the cam? any pointers greatly appreciated.
Duration Advertised: 274° Intake / 286° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 230° Intake / 236° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .490'' Intake / .490'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 110°
has headers and all the other stuff. can anyone see anything wrong with this combo? gunna try a holly carb. advance or retard the cam? any pointers greatly appreciated.
The edelbrock probably needs to be tuned, I had one on my S10 that was jetted on the lean side in stock form, when I got it right it was still a POS as far as reliability.
I also put a 8.8 with redrilled axles in mine, it's 3" wider than stock, so be sure your wheels will still fit right.
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On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
There are a few things that come into play, gears will cause a deffinate inmpact on performance, the other is your configuration, Sportsman heads come with diiferent size chambers, and also have a 200cc runners, not real good for a 350 street machine, they would probally work best for topend and a single plane intake, the SR tourquer heads would have been a better solution, you also mention you have 10.1 lower end, are these the flat top 10.1 pistons w/64cc heads? if so and the chamber volume is 72cc your compression is about 9.2cr. The cam although will run in a 350 deffinately needs CR with the 230/236@.050 and probally runs best wide open throttle, cruising and jumping on it might be a bit doggie, The comp XE268 might have been a better choice. That cam is a nice cam in a 383 running around 10.1-10.5cr. I ran a roller 230/230@.050 in a 350 w/10.1cr and it was fun only when it was wide open throttle, it sucked big time on the highway and jumping on it with out having to downshift 2 gears and with 3.73 gearing. Also note, that head would also work well on a 383.
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There's nothing wrong with your edelbrock carb except the size.....a 750 is way too big for what you have unless you're spinning it to 7000rpm. You'd be better off with a 600-650cfm carb, and regardless of what carb you use it's absolutely going to need tuned to run properly. The 750 edelbrock I have on my 383 was uber rich right out of the box.
Whats listed looks ok but what about trans and converter? Exhaust size.
The edelbrock probably needs to be tuned, I had one on my S10 that was jetted on the lean side in stock form, when I got it right it was still a POS as far as reliability.
I also put a 8.8 with redrilled axles in mine, it's 3" wider than stock, so be sure your wheels will still fit right.
The edelbrock probably needs to be tuned, I had one on my S10 that was jetted on the lean side in stock form, when I got it right it was still a POS as far as reliability.
I also put a 8.8 with redrilled axles in mine, it's 3" wider than stock, so be sure your wheels will still fit right.
I don't know where that comes from, maybe because I said edelbrocks aren't good for reliability.
You need a reliable carb. Drag only, great what if your non reliable carb starts shitting gas as your staging? You get pushed backwards off the track.
You need a reliable carb. Drag only, great what if your non reliable carb starts shitting gas as your staging? You get pushed backwards off the track.
I'd rather have a Holley but the Edelbrock's can be tuned to work great also. For the best performance, don't expect to just bolt a carburetor on and not have any fine tuning to do.
Th400s are bullet proof but weigh a little more than the th350 but imo worth it if its a strip car. Ditch the edlebrock and get a 660 holly similar, make sure to have it tuned after everything is broken in too.
Read up on stalls, 3000 stall is good for what you got but bigger stall and bigger cam and a properly tuned carb will make it run alot quicker. O add a few horses with some 1.6 rockers and make sure you get enough fuel, if your running stock pump might want to consider that too.
Read up on stalls, 3000 stall is good for what you got but bigger stall and bigger cam and a properly tuned carb will make it run alot quicker. O add a few horses with some 1.6 rockers and make sure you get enough fuel, if your running stock pump might want to consider that too.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 325
Likes: 1
Th400s are bullet proof but weigh a little more than the th350 but imo worth it if its a strip car. Ditch the edlebrock and get a 660 holly similar, make sure to have it tuned after everything is broken in too.
Read up on stalls, 3000 stall is good for what you got but bigger stall and bigger cam and a properly tuned carb will make it run alot quicker. O add a few horses with some 1.6 rockers and make sure you get enough fuel, if your running stock pump might want to consider that too.
Read up on stalls, 3000 stall is good for what you got but bigger stall and bigger cam and a properly tuned carb will make it run alot quicker. O add a few horses with some 1.6 rockers and make sure you get enough fuel, if your running stock pump might want to consider that too.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
From: LSU - 2007 National Champs
Good friend of mine did a similar build to yours using a brand new Edelbrock carb. He had the carb on for about 6 months, ran ok, idled fine, didn't bog or anything. He just thought his combo should've been faster than it was running. He borrows another racers identical size Holley, bolts it on and picks up 3 tenths on the first pass. I'm not a carb genius by any means but I've always heard that Edelbrock is a good street carb but if you're gonna race it, buy a Holley.
Personally, I ran a 750 Race Demon. Beautiful carb first of all (if a carb can be described as that...lol). Motor was a 14-1 383, Brodix heads, blah, blah, blah. Never had an ounce of trouble with the Demon though.
Personally, I ran a 750 Race Demon. Beautiful carb first of all (if a carb can be described as that...lol). Motor was a 14-1 383, Brodix heads, blah, blah, blah. Never had an ounce of trouble with the Demon though.
If its drag only, why only 10.1:1?
It should have more compression, by a bunch. more camshaft, more converter, more gear, more tire, etc.
This is one of those totally wrong combos, and then people wonder why they run like ****.
A 350 in a truck is going to be a dog, plain and simple. Bail on it now, and save yourself the headache.
If you're set on keeping it, pull it all apart and do the necessary machine work to get the compression as high as you possibly can. Swap the cam for a nasty roller, and the carb and intake for a single plane 700 cfm holley, and put a 4000+ converter in it. Then it might run 1/2 way decent.
It should have more compression, by a bunch. more camshaft, more converter, more gear, more tire, etc.
This is one of those totally wrong combos, and then people wonder why they run like ****.
A 350 in a truck is going to be a dog, plain and simple. Bail on it now, and save yourself the headache.
If you're set on keeping it, pull it all apart and do the necessary machine work to get the compression as high as you possibly can. Swap the cam for a nasty roller, and the carb and intake for a single plane 700 cfm holley, and put a 4000+ converter in it. Then it might run 1/2 way decent.
What is the purpose of the truck? If it's drag, then you went wrong all the way around...
If it's a street machine, your combo isn't awful, but it's not even close to being optimized. Your biggest problem (motor-wise) is the compression and the heads. Ditch them and go Brodix IK, AFR Eliminator, or Dart Pro-1 Platinum. Anything in the 180-200cc range will work fine.
If you really want to spin it up though and have good drivability, lightweight LS1 gear like that on the AFRs can help you turn better RPMs out of a hydraulic roller. If you have an pre-86 block, then going hydraulic is expensive and not always the best choice. Going to a solid roller, however, would be good if you chose a street grind like the Comp XE or Lunati Voodoo to give you the best of both worlds (street/strip) with just a little added precautionary inspections to the valvetrain when you change the oil.
If it's a street machine, your combo isn't awful, but it's not even close to being optimized. Your biggest problem (motor-wise) is the compression and the heads. Ditch them and go Brodix IK, AFR Eliminator, or Dart Pro-1 Platinum. Anything in the 180-200cc range will work fine.
If you really want to spin it up though and have good drivability, lightweight LS1 gear like that on the AFRs can help you turn better RPMs out of a hydraulic roller. If you have an pre-86 block, then going hydraulic is expensive and not always the best choice. Going to a solid roller, however, would be good if you chose a street grind like the Comp XE or Lunati Voodoo to give you the best of both worlds (street/strip) with just a little added precautionary inspections to the valvetrain when you change the oil.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Tomball, Tx
IMHO change the carb from the get go. Secondly you have a nice setup for a street truck, but if it is drag only then why hold so much back. I have a 84 S-10 I am finishing right now. 355, 12.87:1 domes that are .005" out of the hole. 215cc Dart Iron Eagles w/ 64cc chamber. Ports, bowls, and chambers have been cleaned up and polished, 264/270, 679/645 lift solid roller, port matched Victor Jr with a 980 Da Vinci Holley. I am fixing to put two bottles on it and see where it goes. I am also running a fully built 1.76 Glide with trans brake and a 4400 stall with 4.11's. Oddly enough this truck will be driven to street meets on the weekends
IMHO change the carb from the get go. Secondly you have a nice setup for a street truck, but if it is drag only then why hold so much back. I have a 84 S-10 I am finishing right now. 355, 12.87:1 domes that are .005" out of the hole. 215cc Dart Iron Eagles w/ 64cc chamber. Ports, bowls, and chambers have been cleaned up and polished, 264/270, 679/645 lift solid roller, port matched Victor Jr with a 980 Da Vinci Holley. I am fixing to put two bottles on it and see where it goes. I am also running a fully built 1.76 Glide with trans brake and a 4400 stall with 4.11's. Oddly enough this truck will be driven to street meets on the weekends
One more thing. With a SB, you may wanna re consider the glide. Unless its a lightweight truck. A 3 speed anything will probably run better for that set up.