FS: PowerStop Zinc Plated Blank Rotors and Brake Pads!
05-20-2009, 10:01 PM
#61
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I received my set of blanks with the pads today! Excellent quality. I got around to placing the front rotors and pads in. Had a tough time trying loosen up the bolts for the rear calipers! So I will be doing the rear rotors this weekend. I broke in the front set. They feel so MUCH BETTER! I had badly warped rotors in the front, car vibrated badly through slow or hard braking. Now, its so smooth ha. Will be posting up final results once I get the rear rotors put on.
05-21-2009, 10:43 AM
#62
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Hey, I'm not very familiar with brakes and such, but last time I let my dad take care of getting me new stuff and it hasn't stopped screeching yet. That was probably about 3 or 4 months ago.
So I'm looking for something that will eliminate that, as well as be a better quality product. Will new pads and rotors solve the screeching problem, or is it something else?
So I'm looking for something that will eliminate that, as well as be a better quality product. Will new pads and rotors solve the screeching problem, or is it something else?
A new set of rotors and ceramic pads installed correctly will be nice and quiet. Of course, proper break in procedure should be followed on any new set of brakes.
Hope that helps, let me know if you have any more questions or help selecting the right combo for you.
Thanks!
05-21-2009, 12:13 PM
#63
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I've been getting some questions about proper break in procedure, so here it is for all you guys waiting on rotors! Also posted this at the top of the first post.
*****Break in How To*****
Perform 5 aggressive stops from 50 mph to 10 mph without letting the brakes cool and try not to come to a complete stop. Then do 5 moderate stops from 30 mph to 5 mph and do not let the rotors cool after each brake application. You should expect to smell some burning resin. Finally, drive around a little and let the brakes cool down. This assures proper friction deposition to prevent brake pulsation.
The key is to get an even coat of resin on the rotors, therefore you should avoid coming to a complete stop at all costs until they have cooled. Obviously doing that in the city may be difficult, a backroad with little traffic is best suited for the break in process. Of course, safety first!
*****Break in How To*****
Perform 5 aggressive stops from 50 mph to 10 mph without letting the brakes cool and try not to come to a complete stop. Then do 5 moderate stops from 30 mph to 5 mph and do not let the rotors cool after each brake application. You should expect to smell some burning resin. Finally, drive around a little and let the brakes cool down. This assures proper friction deposition to prevent brake pulsation.
The key is to get an even coat of resin on the rotors, therefore you should avoid coming to a complete stop at all costs until they have cooled. Obviously doing that in the city may be difficult, a backroad with little traffic is best suited for the break in process. Of course, safety first!
05-22-2009, 10:33 AM
#65
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If there is anything else I can look up for you let me know.
05-22-2009, 02:07 PM
#66
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Got them in today, they look GREAT, and let me just say that free shipping on these is a hell of a deal, they are pretty heavy. Installed pics and review coming soon!
05-24-2009, 06:30 PM
#67
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Very interested in this offer but I have some questions. I have a 01 TA and would like either drilled and slotted or just slotted, how much extra money are they. My next question is whats the performance difference in metallic vs. ceramic pads,life,dust,stopping distance ect..... Thanks in advance.
05-26-2009, 10:14 AM
#69
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The primary benefit of drilled rotors is improved cooling under hard braking. The primary benefit of slotting is a constant "wiping" or cleaning of the pad surface. Combined you get both advantages. The difference in pads is mainly noise, friction and dust. Ceramic pads offer lower dust and quieter stopping vs semi metallics which have a higher coefficient of friction (quicker stops) but create more dust and can be a little more noisy.
Life of the pads is entirely dependant on your driving style. A set of pads for one person may last 2 years and 2 months for another. You will however notice shorter pad life with slotted rotors due to to constant wiping.
For a price on the rotors please give me a call at 708-704-2223.
Thanks,
Adam
Life of the pads is entirely dependant on your driving style. A set of pads for one person may last 2 years and 2 months for another. You will however notice shorter pad life with slotted rotors due to to constant wiping.
For a price on the rotors please give me a call at 708-704-2223.
Thanks,
Adam
Very interested in this offer but I have some questions. I have a 01 TA and would like either drilled and slotted or just slotted, how much extra money are they. My next question is whats the performance difference in metallic vs. ceramic pads,life,dust,stopping distance ect..... Thanks in advance.
06-01-2009, 03:14 PM
#76
I think they are the same as the lt1 rotors and pads but do you have rotors and pads available for a 1991 Trans Am? Would want the blank rotors and Z16 pads if possible.
06-01-2009, 04:03 PM
#78
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Thanks,
Adam
06-04-2009, 04:09 AM
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Great service from Adam. Even the warehouse guy sent me some wrong rotors, Adam take care of the issue fast. Everything looks great in the package.
You guys should hook up with the cryo guy and offer some frozen rotors (Plain or slot or drill or both). A frozen rotor has waaaay longer lifespan and stopping power, meaning not fade. I should've ask you to freeze my C5 rotors, just don't have extra money lol.
You guys should hook up with the cryo guy and offer some frozen rotors (Plain or slot or drill or both). A frozen rotor has waaaay longer lifespan and stopping power, meaning not fade. I should've ask you to freeze my C5 rotors, just don't have extra money lol.