FS: PowerStop Zinc Plated Blank Rotors and Brake Pads!
06-04-2009, 10:38 AM
#81
any more smooth rotors left? Adam I read the thread on the rotors and pads looks like what I need just the OEM replacement since the slotted wear the pads much quicker right?
?are these power stop rotor the same as the power stop rotors sold at Summit racing parts?
? I'm assumming they are not first quaility? ? is this why some of the hats are not smooth? or are there more defects?
?when the coating comes off the disc. will the rust as usalle?
? is there a warrenty if so how long?
?are these rotors and pads made in China?
sorry to be so though just CYA for me.
Thanks
?are these power stop rotor the same as the power stop rotors sold at Summit racing parts?
? I'm assumming they are not first quaility? ? is this why some of the hats are not smooth? or are there more defects?
?when the coating comes off the disc. will the rust as usalle?
? is there a warrenty if so how long?
?are these rotors and pads made in China?
sorry to be so though just CYA for me.
Thanks
06-05-2009, 09:25 AM
#83
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The slotted rotors will wear your pads about 20% quicker than blanks. Whether you consider that much quicker or not is up to the individual I suppose.
The zinc coating on the surface of the rotor ie. the friction zone, will wear off shortly after installation. Yes, if the car sits for a period of time, the bare iron will rust over. There is no known way to prevent rust on the friction area of any iron rotor. The hat, hub, and vanes should retain their luster for quite a while, especially in dry climates. Those in northern climates will experience a shorter life on their zinc coating but how long for certain is unique to the individual, and what conditions the car is subjected to.
Our warranty is 120 days for workmanship or defects including rotor warping. The rotors are gauranteed for three years against cracking when used with powerstop pads, and one year if used with any other pads.
The rotor castings come from either Brazil or China. The foundries are ISO9000 certified and the metallurgy conforms to G3000 iron specifications. There are no more US foundries or US manufacturing for aftermarket rotors, e.g. Raybestos, Wagner, etc. We use the same foundries as Brembo. The rotors are machined to OE dimensions for easy bolt-on installation. Power Stop machines the rotors in Chicago.
The Z16 Ceramic and PM18 Semi-Metallic pads are made in China to Powerstop specifications and are pre-burnished to prevent glazing during the break-in process.
The Z26 line of High-Performance Semi-Metallic pads are made in the USA at an Ohio plant and offer the highest resistance to brake fade and glazing of any Powerstop pad.
No problem, hope that helps!
Thank you for your interest!
-Adam
06-08-2009, 03:59 PM
#85
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Got my rotors and pads for my 02 Trans Am. They are great. Did the break in procedure on them and the work awesome. Great product and fast delivery. Thanks Adam. 
06-09-2009, 05:28 PM
#89
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Installed them this past weekend:
Is some noise normal until they are broken in? (figured the caliper piston may have not been pushed all the way in) Sounds like I have some contact on my drivers side front while just driving normally. Any suggestions? Or should I simply drive them a while longer (been ~60 miles so far) and see what happens? Thanks
Is some noise normal until they are broken in? (figured the caliper piston may have not been pushed all the way in) Sounds like I have some contact on my drivers side front while just driving normally. Any suggestions? Or should I simply drive them a while longer (been ~60 miles so far) and see what happens? Thanks
06-10-2009, 08:35 AM
#91
? on brake install can one wheel be done at a time?
meaning can I install one rotor and pads then crusie around?
if so will I I still have to do the break in procedure just for one? this dude told me just to drive regular did'nt need to breakin?
Thanks
meaning can I install one rotor and pads then crusie around?
if so will I I still have to do the break in procedure just for one? this dude told me just to drive regular did'nt need to breakin?
Thanks
06-10-2009, 10:34 PM
#93
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Installed them this past weekend:
Is some noise normal until they are broken in? (figured the caliper piston may have not been pushed all the way in) Sounds like I have some contact on my drivers side front while just driving normally. Any suggestions? Or should I simply drive them a while longer (been ~60 miles so far) and see what happens? Thanks
Is some noise normal until they are broken in? (figured the caliper piston may have not been pushed all the way in) Sounds like I have some contact on my drivers side front while just driving normally. Any suggestions? Or should I simply drive them a while longer (been ~60 miles so far) and see what happens? Thanks
If you have performed all the above steps already or if you continue to have noise after performing the steps above, please call me and I'll try my best to remedy the situation.
Thank You,
Adam
06-10-2009, 10:52 PM
#94
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So basically, do them all at once. Do the break-in right the first time, and rest easy.
-Adam
06-11-2009, 06:21 PM
#95
will do all four I would not suggest doing that. The break-in procedure is crucial to the long life of your rotors. The goal is to burnish the rotors with a smooth even coat of pad resin the first time to avoid uneven deposits, which are the seeds of future warpage. Uneven deposits due to an improper break-in create high spots that generate more heat and ultimately alter the molecular structure of iron to cementite. Cementite nodules are much more dense and wear at an uneven rate. The high spots are what create juddering and give the sensation of a "warped" rotor.
So basically, do them all at once. Do the break-in right the first time, and rest easy.
-Adam
So basically, do them all at once. Do the break-in right the first time, and rest easy.
-Adam
?1. inbetween the caliptor and the metal part of the shoe there are shims are these to be reused sean in image figure7brake?
should these shims be super glued to metal part od shoe to keep them in place?
reason I ask is because the left rear shoe the top shim has loosened and is overlapping the bottom shim ? I beleive this is what created the clicking noise that bought attention to the rears being worn out?
?2.there's a clip I think this is the wear indicater is this to be removed to install the new pads? if so how is it removed sean in image figure9brake?
?3. is medium thread lock OK or should I use high strenght thread lock?
or is there a high temputure thread lock?
?4. I'm hopping this wrench cicrled in image brake wrenh is the 16mm?
?5. I'm planning on using a socket on the calipor frame bolts?
the guide I've been reading (install. univesity says use a wrench?
Adam I will drop off the unwanted part at Fedx this Saturday mite be able to get it off Friday.
Thanks for the helpfull surport.
Sorry to be so though never done brake swap.
Last edited by badmfkr; 06-11-2009 at 06:39 PM.
06-14-2009, 01:44 PM
#96
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did'nt want to do all four because it's real hot outside.
?1. inbetween the caliptor and the metal part of the shoe there are shims are these to be reused sean in image figure7brake?
should these shims be super glued to metal part od shoe to keep them in place?
The shims on the old pads are not needed, your new Powerstop ceramic pads come with a rubberized shim already attached.
reason I ask is because the left rear shoe the top shim has loosened and is overlapping the bottom shim ? I beleive this is what created the clicking noise that bought attention to the rears being worn out?
?2.there's a clip I think this is the wear indicater is this to be removed to install the new pads? if so how is it removed sean in image figure9brake?
The clip you've circled is the abutment or "anti rattle" clip. Those just pop out. They should be cleaned thouroughly and lubed with a silicone based lubricant or antisieze prior to installing the new pads. If they are corroded or excessively worn, its a good idea to replace them all together, (your's look to be in pretty good shape).
?3. is medium thread lock OK or should I use high strenght thread lock?
or is there a high temputure thread lock?
When reinstalling the caliper bracket bolts I usually used red lock-tite and torque to the value given in the service manual (not sure off the top of my head what it is).
?4. I'm hopping this wrench cicrled in image brake wrenh is the 16mm?
That bolt is actually for the caliper slide. The caliper bolts are located on the kunckle and are a larger diameter bolt. You should not have to remove the slides. It's good practice to pop the slide off and clean/grease them and make sure the dust boot is clipped back around the base before reinstalling though.
?5. I'm planning on using a socket on the calipor frame bolts?
the guide I've been reading (install. univesity says use a wrench?
Either will work, I usually use a short well socket with a breaker bar attached, that or an impact gun if I can fit it in there. Just make sure the car is jacked up properly and stable as it requires a lot of force to break the caliper bolts loose.
Adam I will drop off the unwanted part at Fedx this Saturday mite be able to get it off Friday.
No rush, whenever you get a chance is cool.
Thanks for the helpfull surport.
Of course!
Sorry to be so though never done brake swap.
?1. inbetween the caliptor and the metal part of the shoe there are shims are these to be reused sean in image figure7brake?
should these shims be super glued to metal part od shoe to keep them in place?
The shims on the old pads are not needed, your new Powerstop ceramic pads come with a rubberized shim already attached.
reason I ask is because the left rear shoe the top shim has loosened and is overlapping the bottom shim ? I beleive this is what created the clicking noise that bought attention to the rears being worn out?
?2.there's a clip I think this is the wear indicater is this to be removed to install the new pads? if so how is it removed sean in image figure9brake?
The clip you've circled is the abutment or "anti rattle" clip. Those just pop out. They should be cleaned thouroughly and lubed with a silicone based lubricant or antisieze prior to installing the new pads. If they are corroded or excessively worn, its a good idea to replace them all together, (your's look to be in pretty good shape).
?3. is medium thread lock OK or should I use high strenght thread lock?
or is there a high temputure thread lock?
When reinstalling the caliper bracket bolts I usually used red lock-tite and torque to the value given in the service manual (not sure off the top of my head what it is).
?4. I'm hopping this wrench cicrled in image brake wrenh is the 16mm?
That bolt is actually for the caliper slide. The caliper bolts are located on the kunckle and are a larger diameter bolt. You should not have to remove the slides. It's good practice to pop the slide off and clean/grease them and make sure the dust boot is clipped back around the base before reinstalling though.
?5. I'm planning on using a socket on the calipor frame bolts?
the guide I've been reading (install. univesity says use a wrench?
Either will work, I usually use a short well socket with a breaker bar attached, that or an impact gun if I can fit it in there. Just make sure the car is jacked up properly and stable as it requires a lot of force to break the caliper bolts loose.
Adam I will drop off the unwanted part at Fedx this Saturday mite be able to get it off Friday.
No rush, whenever you get a chance is cool.
Thanks for the helpfull surport.
Of course!
Sorry to be so though never done brake swap.
06-14-2009, 01:45 PM
#97
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MjMaro,
I just realized those abutment clips look brand new, however I don't see any lube on them. If you lube them up and you're still having issues, give me a call and I'll get you a new set of pads.
I just realized those abutment clips look brand new, however I don't see any lube on them. If you lube them up and you're still having issues, give me a call and I'll get you a new set of pads.
06-14-2009, 02:02 PM
#98
Gotta get a review in for this pad and rotor combo!! I absolutely love it! My single piston LT1 brakes sucked before I installed these new parts but now they grab very nicely! They are deadly silent and they really do grab like hell! Much better feeling over the old Autozone pads and rotors I had before.
