11 pound race battery!!!!!!!!!
01-13-2010, 09:24 AM
#122
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has anyone had luck with batt in rear on any car i got a nova sbc wondering if it would work with less draws and how bout the bigger batt any progress with it
02-04-2010, 08:53 PM
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hrmmm. i'm strongly considering one of these puppies. i would be mounting it on my firewall; the only problem is i have a turbo car and my engine bay gets a little hot. is this battery metal jacketed? i have low compression, not really worried about starting, but i do have a stereo with an amp. also had charging issues last year with my remote mounted battery (im guessing battery cables were too small)..... any more reviews from guys with stereos and whatnot?
02-06-2010, 11:59 AM
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Got my battery some time last week, it is small and very light as far as weight. Haven't had it installed yet, but I am excited that some more weight will be removed from my front end. Thanks!
Last edited by 02sleeperz28; 12-30-2011 at 05:33 PM.
02-14-2010, 12:24 PM
#136
Hey ModularTurbo, could you please post all the specifications for this battery? What is it's CCA rating (0 degrees Fahrenheit after 30 seconds)? Who makes it? Are there any other sizes?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Last edited by Paul Bell; 02-14-2010 at 01:02 PM.
02-15-2010, 06:33 PM
#137
We make it. dimensions are 7 x 6 x 3, CA 680. I have not tested the CA at 0 degrees F, it doesn't get that cold here. I am sure that it is above 300 though. We have never had any cold related issues to date. I have used this battery personally in temps as low as 17 degrees with no issues.
We do have other sizes that we can make but there needs to be enough people needing one (15 at least) or it wouldn't be cost effective to make.
We do have other sizes that we can make but there needs to be enough people needing one (15 at least) or it wouldn't be cost effective to make.
02-16-2010, 03:02 PM
#138
I am far from a battery guru but do have a bit of information to add. I feel that some people are being misinformed about why a battery is a good choice for use under the hood or being put in the trunk. I am looking for a battery as well and would love to save the weight. I am another miata swapper but with an ls3. stock the battery is in the trunk, it has not been moved there. The thing is if the battery will work under the hood it will work just as well in the trunk. The issue is the wire gauge. The distance of the wire gives you more resistance as most of you probably know. On higher voltage relatively short distances are not a big issue. When your talking a 12v system it is. Here is a voltage drop calculator I found to demonstrate the need for bigger wires the further you go.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm
I’ll give an example using the chart. 8 guage wire at 1 foot at 500 amps. (basing on starting which is the problem) you get a .3 voltage drop. Change that to 10 feet and you get a 3.2 voltage drop. Grounds not being sized properly will do the same thing. It is just like a motor with air. You need the negative cable to be able to handle just as much as you put in on the positive side.
So long story short. If a battery will not work in the trunk but will in the engine bay. It is a cable sizing issue. that was an attempt at being brief. I hope that helps out a bit. oh yea... cables can get heavy too...
http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm
I’ll give an example using the chart. 8 guage wire at 1 foot at 500 amps. (basing on starting which is the problem) you get a .3 voltage drop. Change that to 10 feet and you get a 3.2 voltage drop. Grounds not being sized properly will do the same thing. It is just like a motor with air. You need the negative cable to be able to handle just as much as you put in on the positive side.
So long story short. If a battery will not work in the trunk but will in the engine bay. It is a cable sizing issue. that was an attempt at being brief. I hope that helps out a bit. oh yea... cables can get heavy too...
02-16-2010, 05:51 PM
#139
I am far from a battery guru but do have a bit of information to add. I feel that some people are being misinformed about why a battery is a good choice for use under the hood or being put in the trunk. I am looking for a battery as well and would love to save the weight. I am another miata swapper but with an ls3. stock the battery is in the trunk, it has not been moved there. The thing is if the battery will work under the hood it will work just as well in the trunk. The issue is the wire gauge. The distance of the wire gives you more resistance as most of you probably know. On higher voltage relatively short distances are not a big issue. When your talking a 12v system it is. Here is a voltage drop calculator I found to demonstrate the need for bigger wires the further you go.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm
I’ll give an example using the chart. 8 guage wire at 1 foot at 500 amps. (basing on starting which is the problem) you get a .3 voltage drop. Change that to 10 feet and you get a 3.2 voltage drop. Grounds not being sized properly will do the same thing. It is just like a motor with air. You need the negative cable to be able to handle just as much as you put in on the positive side.
So long story short. If a battery will not work in the trunk but will in the engine bay. It is a cable sizing issue. that was an attempt at being brief. I hope that helps out a bit. oh yea... cables can get heavy too...
http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm
I’ll give an example using the chart. 8 guage wire at 1 foot at 500 amps. (basing on starting which is the problem) you get a .3 voltage drop. Change that to 10 feet and you get a 3.2 voltage drop. Grounds not being sized properly will do the same thing. It is just like a motor with air. You need the negative cable to be able to handle just as much as you put in on the positive side.
So long story short. If a battery will not work in the trunk but will in the engine bay. It is a cable sizing issue. that was an attempt at being brief. I hope that helps out a bit. oh yea... cables can get heavy too...
I was trying to not get that deep into it. I wanted to just set down some general rules of thumb to keep the less technical from getting into trouble, but you are right though. Voltage drops due to incorrect wiring, corrosion, and faulty grounds will rear their ugly heads much more frequently with a MINI battery setup due to the power level just being enough to get the job done.
Also www.stealth316.com is an awesome source for info. I have been racing stealth's for many years and that is a great site.