POWERSTOP Summer Brake Sale - Great Deals Inside!

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Old 07-24-2009, 12:02 PM
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Default POWERSTOP Summer Brake Sale - Great Deals Inside!

Hello again LS1Tech members!

We've acquired a large stock of PowerStop rotors for LS1/LT1 applications at great prices. LS1Tech members have been great to deal with thus far and we generate a lot of sales from you guys so we are again passing the savings along to you! The following list is for rotors only, broken down in front & rear or front only. All prices include shipping to the lower 48 states. We will ship international just PM me or call for a quote. All PowerStop rotors come zinc coated to resist corrosion! Please scroll down for pad pricing.

93-02 F-body


Front/Rear Slotted Only: $199.99
Front Slotted Only: $119.99

Front/Rear Drilled Only: $199.99
Front Drilled Only: $119.99

Front/Rear Drilled/Slotted: $219.99
Front Drilled/Slotted $139.99

Front/Rear Plated Blanks: $149.99
Front Plated Blanks: $89.99

With 10+ Orders
Any F+R F-Body combo above with your choice of Ceramic or Semi-Met pads $199.99 shipped in the contiguous 48
Group buy pricing ends 8/31/09!


97-04 C5 & Z06

Front/Rear Slotted Only: $249.99
Front Slotted Only: $149.99

Front/Rear Drilled Only: $249.99
Front Drilled Only: $149.99

Front/Rear Drilled/Slotted: $269.99
Front Drilled/Slotted $169.99

Front/Rear Plated Blanks: $169.99
Front Plated Blanks: $109.99

With 10+ Orders
Any F+R C5 combo above with your choice of Ceramic or Semi-Met pads $249.99 shipped in the contiguous 48
Group buy pricing ends 8/31/09!


2004 GTO

Front/Rear Drilled/Slotted: $249.99
Front Drilled/Slotted: $149.99

Front/Rear Plated Blanks: $169.99
Front Plated Blanks: $109.99

With 10+ Orders
Any F+R GTO combo above with your choice of Ceramic or Semi-Met pads $249.99 shipped in the contiguous 48
Group buy pricing ends 8/31/09!


Pads

PowerStop Z16 Ceramic Pads: $49.99 F/R for any order of rotors
PowerStop HP26 High-Performance Semi-Metallic Pads: $69.99

If you need something for any other vehicle not listed please PM or call me and I can check with PowerStop on availability and pricing. We can also get PowerStop truck rotors! Muscle cars? That too, just call me!

And as always for those on a budget I can get you any ebay listed item for 10% off the lowest price you can find on our Kinetic brand rotors.

I can be reached Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm CST for questions or to place orders. Accepted forms of payment are Visa/MC/Discover/AMex/PayPal.

Thanks,
Adam

708.704.2223

Last edited by Brakemotive; 08-17-2009 at 09:00 AM.
Old 08-07-2009, 11:02 AM
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Bump,

If I can get 10+ committed orders together I can reduce the price on any complete F-Body kit to $199.99 shipped with pads. If you would like to get on the list post up or PM.

Thanks,
Adam

Group buy list

1.) Scorch1
2.) shawnzy89
3.) spy2520
4.) spike30th
5.) TheShadiest1_
6.) Morpheus
7.) Bret@EFIAlchemy
8.) WFOSS
9.) 96z28
10.) 99Camaro.77
11.) patarakc
12.) thebeast431
13.)

Last edited by Brakemotive; 08-25-2009 at 11:28 AM.
Old 08-07-2009, 07:53 PM
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I'm in. Also I've heard that with drilled and slotted its better to go one way not both since drilled/slotted breaks easier. Have you heard of anyone having any difficulty with drilled and slotted?
Old 08-09-2009, 07:22 PM
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PM Sent
Old 08-10-2009, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Scorch1
I'm in. Also I've heard that with drilled and slotted its better to go one way not both since drilled/slotted breaks easier. Have you heard of anyone having any difficulty with drilled and slotted?
It really boils down to your driving style. On a street vehicle that doesn't see any track time or high speed highway runs a drilled only rotor provides the best cooling benefit, and thus the greatest resistance to warping. On a track vehicle, the best option is a blank or slotted rotor since they have less stress risers and as such are able to withstand thermal shock longer without cracking.

On a vehicle which is frequently subjected to thermal shock, ie road racing, highway runs up pas 150+ etc, no stock style rotor is going to last very long before it either cracks, or warps. Under harsh conditions like those mentioned above, a rotor simply cannot last very long. The best option for those cars is an aftermarket big brake kit with a two piece rotor.

Brakes are a consumable maintenance item. How long they last is entirely dependent on the initial break in process and the driving style they are subjected to, as well as the compound of pad.

Please advise what type of driving you do with the car and I'll make a recommendation based upon that.

Hope that helps, if you have any more questions please ask.

-Adam
Old 08-11-2009, 05:58 PM
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Street driving, but the occasional race or something. I don't drive my car very much, but for 3-4 days when I'm at OCMD for the car show it does get some races in. Preferably I like the look of slotted & drilled or just drilled. I'm kinda partial to just slotted. I dunno, just a preference. Plus I have new wheels which will expose them.
Old 08-11-2009, 09:56 PM
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Mainly street driving but it is my daily during the summer and spring. No track runs yet but I plan on occasionally going. I do alot of those highway runs. Nothing close to 150 but I cruise alot around the 90-100 mark. I like the look of the cross-drilled/slot but what would be your recommendation. And just so my understanding is correct it is 200 shipped for all for rotors?
Old 08-13-2009, 01:34 PM
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Mostly street occasional track use you should be fine with drilled/slotted if you prefer the look of them. The primary benefit of cross drilled rotors is improved convection heat transfer, which can reduce peak temps by as much as 200* F. The main cause of rotor "warping" is uneven deposition of friction material which creates high spots on the rotor friction surface. Over 1200* F these spots can change the molecular structure of the iron in the rotor to a denser compound known as cementite. Obviously these denser nodules will wear slower than the base iron and eventually create pulsations which get progressively more pronounced. Cutting or turning a rotor helps alleviate the juddering for a while, but in most cases the nodules go deeper than the cut and, you guess it, as the rotor surface begins to wear the problem returns.

By keeping the rotor cooler you severely reduce the chance of overheating the rotor and thus reduce the occurrence of "warpage". The more surface area you have for holes (ie non slotted) obviously the better the rotor will cool. That's why for vehicles driven primarily on the street, cross drilled rotors work the best and last the longest.

On cars that see very high speed stops and repeated high pressure stops that can thermally shock a rotor (road racing, highway runs) I would recommend a slotted rotor as there is significantly less stress risers and thus less areas susceptible to cracking. Slotted rotors do provide a channel for resin gasses to escape which helps reduce brake fade, but the primary benefit is the deglazing action of the slot on the pads.

For someone expecting to beat the crap out of a rotor continuously like during a HPDE or road race/open track event, the best option is the cheapest. ie blank rotors that will knowingly be scrapped after the event. Either that or a big brake kit with 2 piece rotors, read $$$$$$$$$$$.
Old 08-14-2009, 09:47 AM
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Gotcha, thanks for the information.
Old 08-14-2009, 07:28 PM
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$199.99 for any kit means drilled or slotted or both? As in any preference is $199.99? If so i'm in. i was just about to buy some brakes.
Old 08-17-2009, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by spy2520
$199.99 for any kit means drilled or slotted or both? As in any preference is $199.99? If so i'm in. i was just about to buy some brakes.
That's right, I should have specified that is for F-Body applications but I will edit that post with C5/GTO prices as well for 10+ orders.

Bump
Old 08-17-2009, 09:56 AM
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I would be in on this if you get 10.
Old 08-17-2009, 10:23 PM
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Add me to the list.
Old 08-17-2009, 10:28 PM
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That's a nice deal with brake pads.
Old 08-18-2009, 07:51 AM
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What would you recomend for street driving and trips to the drag strip? Blanks or the Drilled? What about Pads?
Old 08-18-2009, 09:08 AM
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Alright guys, we're getting there. As soon as we hit 10 I can start shipping parts out.

Waggz: If you do primarily street driving a drilled or drilled/slotted rotor should work just fine for you.
Old 08-18-2009, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Brakemotive
Alright guys, we're getting there. As soon as we hit 10 I can start shipping parts out.

Waggz: If you do primarily street driving a drilled or drilled/slotted rotor should work just fine for you.

What about the blanks? I don't know if I need the drilled or drilled/slotted for the amount of street driving I do. Also what pads do you recomend?
Old 08-18-2009, 10:00 AM
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PM Sent
Old 08-18-2009, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by waggz
What about the blanks? I don't know if I need the drilled or drilled/slotted for the amount of street driving I do. Also what pads do you recomend?
If you go with slotted rotors you'll decrease the chances of glazing your pads during a panic stop since they constantly clean the pad surface. The Z16 Ceramic pads should well for your driving style. They run clean and quiet yet provide exceptional braking power.
Old 08-18-2009, 06:39 PM
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are the drilled and slotted rotors plated and witch of the pads is going to have the least amount of brake dust


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