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Old 03-18-2016, 05:46 AM   #1
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Default LS1Tech's Project Ron Burgundy - 1995 Chevrolet S10 Track Rat Build



If you've been on the news pages of LS1Tech.com, then you're probably seen our new project. It's a 1995 Chevrolet S10 that we've dubbed "Ron Burgundy" and it's going to be our Track Rat project. The goal for this 2016 is to not just get it running with an LS-based V8, but also keep it street legal, use mostly bolt-on parts, and run in the Optima Ultimate Street Car Invitational that takes place in Las Vegas just after the SEMA Show. This includes doing something a little out of the box for a vehicle expected to run on a road course (well, besides running a truck) as we'll be swapping FROM a manual to an automatic gearbox. Follow this thread as this is where we'll make smaller updates while we'll still publish the main story on the front page of the website.

Current Project Sponsors:
QA1 - www.qa1.net
PCMforLess.com - www.PCMforLess.com
OE Wheels LLC - www.oewheelsllc.com
Optima Batteries - www.optimabatteries.com
Texas Speed Industries - http://www.texas-speed.com/
Katech - http://katechengines.com/
Speartech - http://www.speartech.com/
Holley Performance Products - http://www.holley.com
Carbage - https://www.facebook.com/carbageonline/

Current Modifications:
Bone Stock $1000 S10

Planned Modifications:
• Swap in a LS-based V8 with some computer tuning from PCMforLess.com
• Utilize a manually shifted automatic
• Swap the rear end to a full Ford 8.8 Explorer Disc Brake axle
• Utilize the leaf spring setup using slider rear links and Slide-a-Link traction bars – This may change if I can find a bolt-in three link with a Watt’s link that will suit my needs and project goals
• Utilize and improve the brake system
• Further improve the front geometry with a set of tubular arms from QA1
• Use QA1 with compression and rebound adjustable coil overs front and compression and rebound adjustable shocks in the rear
• Improve safety and comfort in the interior – including sound system and some other creature comforts along with a set of paddle shifters for the new transmission
• Improve aerodynamics, especially at the rear
• Reduce weight on the front end
• New wheels C7 Stingray Style wheels and improved tires
• Repair body panels that have damage
• Swap to composite lights from later Blazer or the 97-up S10

Current HP:
4-Banger S10: Maybe 100-horsepower?

Planned HP Goal:
10:1 or better Weight to Power Ratio, class limited weight of 3200 means 320-horsepower or better

Last edited by J Banner; 06-08-2016 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 03-30-2016, 11:56 PM   #2
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Default First update


So, I've owned Ron for about six or seven months now. For $1000, it was doing far better than I had originally imagined a truck (or any vehicle for that matter) to do. At the time, the only major repair I had done was replacing the drag and toe links and drove it to Vegas, Buttonwillow, Ridgecrest, and several other places until a few weeks ago.



Those few weeks ago it started acting odd and wasn't making power. It was struggling to get downhill but never really did anything worse. Checked the water for the signs of anything catastrophic and hoped it could last me until around June. Well, turned out after replacing parts there was only one thing that it could be and I pulled the head to confirm: it was cracked.

Crap.



Well, it became the great excuse to start getting the L33 engine going. Yep, that's right, I have an L33 that will be going into Ron Burgundy. It's great because I'll get roughly the power I want in an engine that will be lighter than the LQ4 I was originally looking for. Of course, I would need parts to get it together and in to the S10. Thanks to Texas Speed Industries, that's going to be easier with Dirty Dingo, Mechman, and Texas Speed's own parts. Can't thank those guys enough as that's a big part of this build other than the transmission and engine controls.


I've also started to do the suspension that we've received from QA1 and the junkyard sourced ZJ Grand Cherokee steering box for a quicker steering ratio. We've also got the wheels it will wear but need to get tires for it. Finally, Optima sent us a battery and charger, so look for a review on it soon.

So, the next big parts I'm going to need soon are the 4L60E transmission the the 8.8-inch rear end.

I'm looking at sourcing the 4L60E because it's a little easier to find considering how long and how many GM vehicles came with it. So there are a lot of parts and they are inexpensive. I even found a road race specific rebuild kit for it that I'll source as well. Well, unless we get a transmission sponsor for it.

Next, the 8.8 can pretty much speak for itself. It's cheap, strong, and parts for it are also cheap. The only thing I'll have to do is change the bolt pattern to the GM 5x4.75 pattern. That's just a trip to the machine shop or another sponsor that wants to chip in on that as well.

Look for articles on the front page soon about all of these and more in the coming weeks!
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Old 04-05-2016, 02:46 AM   #3
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So, I've been working on the S10 slowly. Honestly, a little too slowly for my taste but with events and stories coming up I guess it's understandable.



The QA1 arms and coil overs are in and as I was getting ready to begin to install new bearings into my hubs, I started thinking. This usually doesn't lead to good things, but all this did was made me pause and start to consider what I'm going to do for front brakes.

I mean, the stock brakes do come on the G-Body (or they are a variation of them) so I know for stock use and some circle track use (after a blueprint rebuild) they are ok but will they take the abuse of road racing? More importantly will they take the abuse of the Speed-Stop Challenge in the USCA rounds I'm planning to enter?

Now, keep in mind, I'm not concerned about the additional weight being the issue. I'm fairly confident that an Iron Block 2.2-liter 4-cylinder and an all aluminum L33 probably weight fairly close to the same. I know 240SX guys compare the LS1s weight to the KA24DE engine that came stock in that car and the LS1 is usually a 100-pound penalty before they turbo the KA-engine. (KA24DE for you non-Nissan nerds means it's an iron block/aluminum head, 2.4-liter 4-banger with dual overhead cams) Suffice to say, I know going V8 isn't the issue; it's going to be the heat from hard stopping and whoa-ing the truck down from track speeds to make a corner.

So, I have convinced myself that an upgrade is needed. However, we've decided to try something and give you guys a chance to start to chime in on certain upgrades.

Here are the options:

1. Upgrade to a twin-piston caliper from a 1998 to 2005 Blazer/Envoy (and S10s that came with PBR dual-piston calipers)
Pros: Bolt-on, two pistons instead of a smaller single, fairly inexpensive and easy to find, could also upgrade to larger rotors and C5/C6 brake calipers with a Flynbye kit
Con: By "bolt-on" I mean I also need the knuckle and spindle unit bearing (though not a bad con), equal sourcing of junkyard parts and new parts

2. Upgrade to a twin-piston caliper from a manufacturer who makes an upgrade kit
Pros: New, proven and will know it will work for my application, usually a lighter option with aluminum calipers
Cons: You usually still end up cutting and drilling the old spindle (some offer new, lowered spindles, too), aluminum calipers not always an option

3. Upgrade to Flynbye's C5 Corvette Calipers with 12-inch rotors
Pros: Much larger rotor, works with most wheels, PBR caliper
Cons: Still have to modify the stock caliper, still a dual piston caliper (not whizz-bang other than a powder coated caliper)

4. Upgrade to Flynbye's C5 ZO6 Kit with 13-inch rotors
Pros: ZO6 Calipers for cool factor, 13-inch rotors, so still works with most wheels, PBR caliper
Cons: Still have to modify the stock caliper, still a dual piston

So, voice your opinion below and we'll tally up the decision by next Wednesday (4/13/16).
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:24 PM   #4
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Well, looks like the selection on brakes goes to me. I must need to incentivise you guys a bit.

So, I'm going with the Blazer 2WD swap. Really, you can't beat it as it's bolt-on and comes with a 2-piston caliper that's similar to the ZO6's 2-piston. Now, it's time to junkyard hunt between articles, announcing gigs, and the engine build itself.
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Old 05-25-2016, 02:20 PM   #5
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So, a little while has gone by and I have decided to start a YouTube channel called Carbage. As if I didn't have enough on my plate, right? Hahah, oh anyhow.




Well, since I am doing video, I decided to use Project Ron Burgundy in it and the first one is brief explainer on the GM L33. It's about 9-minutes long but gets enough information so that you don't get too bored and yet still learn something. You can see the video here: https://ls1tech.com/articles/project...y-l33-carbage/

That's the theme of Carbage, essentially, to be an automotive entertainment and educational channel. I was getting tired of the mono-tone host or cellphone based channels I was seeing and, with some encouragement from another videographer friend (Andrew from Thirsty Film), created the channel. If you want to subscribe, I would be honored to have you guys do so. I'm a one-man show for now, but it's going to be fun and educational for both you guys and myself. You can see the channel here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUc...k5ee5jSnH8ylpg
Or check out the Facebook page here: facebook.com/carbageonline

So again, thank you guys for reading and watching, I'll see you on the next one!
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Old 05-25-2016, 11:43 PM   #6
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FYI, That is not an L33.

That is a Gen 4 block similar to the LS2 platform so it's likely a LH6, LH8,LH9 or an LC9.

I would venture to bet it also has a 58X crank trigger wheel.
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Old 05-26-2016, 09:55 AM   #7
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Default The Curious Case of the L33

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1FastBrick View Post
FYI, That is not an L33.

That is a Gen 4 block similar to the LS2 platform so it's likely a LH6, LH8,LH9 or an LC9.

I would venture to bet it also has a 58X crank trigger wheel.
You know, you're going to read this and think I'm an odd person, but you'd be right. However, when you read this next one you're going to wonder what goes on in my head in a day-by-day basis: I appreciate that you questioned me.

I love moments like this, these teachable moments. Moments that our current public educational system lacks because they no longer teach and just read out of a book. Anytime I get to teach or learn, I love it because that's just who I am and the one of the reasons why I created Carbage. I ain't an expert and will never claim to be one, but I will teach and learn and teach again.

The guy I bought it from swore up and down that it was a L33, even with the crank sensor missing (more on why that matters in a moment). So, when you mentioned that this could be an LH or LC block, I had to go look for myself. The 5.3-liter and 4.8-liter are the transgenders of the LS world. They may look like one thing on the outside but identify as another when you dig into them. Hey, nothing wrong with that, I don't judge. Go use the bathroom you want and don't be a perv about it.

That being said, there are several ways to identify an LS-based engine and it's exactly the same since GM/Chevy/Pontiac created their V8 engines: Casting numbers, cam sensor color, and design features. So, I took a look at the casting number (yeah, it was 2am but I am up because I'm taking a roommate to the airport) and it identified as a Gen IV block. Worse still is that the crank sensor is missing and seeing if it was either black or grey would have solved this really quick. I also took a look at my valley plate and, sure enough, it looks like a Gen IV plate. Son of a...

However, doing a little more digging I found out that the L33 was designed as a Gen IV block with Gen III stuff. Yep, even though the casting and valley plates are Gen IV, inside it's still a Gen III with a 24X crank reluctor and 1X cam gear. Gee, thanks GM for making identification so easy.

SO there is only one way to figure out what I have. Look at the reluctor and cam timing gear. First, let's figure out what we need to identify.

This is a picture of a 58X crank reluctor on the crank:

Photo: Not mine, but original source did not credit

This is a picture of a 24X crank reluctor on the crank:

Photo: Not mine, but original source did not credit

This is a 4X cam timing gear, off the cam:

Photo: Not mine, but original source did not credit

A 1X cam timing gear, off the cam:

Photo: Not mine, but original source did not credit

And, finally, a shot of a 24X and 58X reluctor wheels, side by side:

Photo: Not mine, but original source did not credit

Now that we see these, we can look into what I'm working with on my engine. Based on all the images I have found to use as reference, this is a 24X reluctor wheel on my engine:


This is the cam timing gear on my engine. Again, from all I have seen, this is a 1X cam gear.


Now, at this point, most people on the internet will call 1FastBrick an idiot and be on their merry way. I, on the other hand, won't. Why? Because it can be argued that he's still right. Welcome to the world of GM and what makes these engines both frustrating and amazing in the same time. Going back to my bad transgender joke, you can convert the 58X and 24X to one another, but to do it right requires some "surgery" from an expert.

The reluctor wheels on both engines can be removed. Both wheels are pressed on after they are heated but also require a special alignment tool to make sure it's on right. It's also possible for the 24X reluctor to be installed upside down, so it's best to let someone with experience do it.

A quick and dirty way, thanks to the interchangeability of the 4.8/5.3/6.0 is to drop in a crank with a 58X or 24X reluctor wheel. The final, even quicker way, is to use a converter that takes the 24X signal and makes it 58X and vice versa. If you go with any other than the last one, you'll still need the crank sensor that matches (grey for 58X, black for 24X). If you do any of them, you'll need the correct cam gear.

So, it is possible, but very unlikely, that I have an LH6/8/9 or LC9 that has been converted. It's far more possible that I do have a L33. Either way, this was a great question (or, well, questioning). Again, I'm no expert and any time I get to learn and then teach will be moments I love. Again, as humans we learn by failure and questioning. There's no shame in being wrong and showing it, same as there is no shame in being right and showing it. Just don't be a jerk about it.
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Old 05-26-2016, 11:13 AM   #8
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J banner, I have some more info for you to research.

Likely what you have is an LH6 then as they were also available in 2005 in different vehicles.

An L33 is based off the Gen3 architecture. It uses knock sensors in the middle valley of the block. How Do I know? Well all GMT800 trucks use this platforum. The Gen4 Platform has knock sensors on the side of the block and they read different Values from the knock sensors on the Gen3 stuff.

Also for GM to maintain the simplicity of the engine harness, they use a Gen3 style block as a Gen 4 block would require a new harness specific to that engine lay out. Highly unlikely when there already planning to discontinue a product line.

Bolderdash you say? 24X does not always mean Gen3 and 58X=Gen4.
Will How could that be? The early LS2 blocks in some applications like the trailblazer were 24X, Does that make them Gen3? Simple answer No.

What defines the 2 generations is the basic block architecture. Nothing else. The Gen3 uses the LS1 block architecture regardless of the heads, bore size, or crank stroke. The Gen 4 uses the LS2 Block structure. Again regardless of the heads, bore size, or crank stroke.

Are you kidding me??? No, let's take a look at both aspects here when they are stripped down to their basic forum.

The LS1 block has knock sensors in the center of the block and a cam sensor in the read of the block near the oil sensor hole.

The LS2 Architecture has neither of those. The Knock sensors were moved down to the bottom Between the motor mount and oil pan rail area. The cam sensor was also moved to the front timing cover and the hole in the block was deleted.

But that doesn't prove anything right? Look at the Gen4 block again. What do you see in the middle of the block? Those little tower looking things correspond to lifter locations. Why you ask? D.O.D. Displacement On Demand also referred to as cylinder deactivation mode. This is made possible by either using a valley Plate that has special oil passages and solenoids to control this feature or Standard plate with no oil passages if it does not have it that option.

So now you're scratching your head asking if I am really a french model???

The L33 engine was introduced in the GMT800 Silverado and Sierra 1500 series Extended cab 4x4 Trucks and was only available from 2005-2007 classic. They were not offered in the US in any other forum. The RPO L33 was specific to the 1500 series 4x4 Extended cab exclusively. It also used the Vin code B. No other product line and no other variation in the truck lineup.

And Last but not least, I Personally have an L33 That I personally pulled from from a salvaged Silverado with Vin code B. It will be used for a future build on here.

I hope you found this to be somewhat educational!
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:31 PM   #9
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FWIW, the Block casting number on a true L33 is 12572733.

An LM4 5.3L is casting number 12566910

These are both Gen3 aluminum blocks.

Yours is likely a 12568513, or 12601900 which is a Gen4 casting.

Being 24x with 1x cam wheel I believe is specific to the early LH6 option Vs. the later LH8,LH9 or an LC9 which likely used 58x crank wheel.
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Old 05-26-2016, 01:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1FastBrick View Post
FWIW, the Block casting number on a true L33 is 12572733.

An LM4 5.3L is casting number 12566910

These are both Gen3 aluminum blocks.

Yours is likely a 12568513, or 12601900 which is a Gen4 casting.

Being 24x with 1x cam wheel I believe is specific to the early LH6 option Vs. the later LH8,LH9 or an LC9 which likely used 58x crank wheel.
As my friends in the great white north say... SON OF A DIDLEY!

Yeah, looks like I've got a LH6. My casting number is 12568513. My shart ain't so rare, then. Well, I'm not the first one to get fooled by "It's a 5.3" and end up with something else. At least mine will still be 5.3-liters rather than 4.8-liters. I guess that's a great excuse to get better lifters since I have parts from another 5.3-liter project that didn't have Active Fuel Management (DOD, if you don't recognize AFM).

Update video to come. DOH.
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Old 05-26-2016, 01:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Banner View Post
As my friends in the great white north say... SON OF A DIDLEY!

Yeah, looks like I've got a LH6. My casting number is 12568513. My shart ain't so rare, then. Well, I'm not the first one to get fooled by "It's a 5.3" and end up with something else. At least mine will still be 5.3-liters rather than 4.8-liters. I guess that's a great excuse to get better lifters since I have parts from another 5.3-liter project that didn't have Active Fuel Management (DOD, if you don't recognize AFM).

Update video to come. DOH.
No problem!

It's still a great foundation to build on. The crank, rods, and pistons are still the same as what's found in the L33.
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:08 AM   #12
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So, coming from the world of Motorsports and having to work with drivers to get sponsors and working with companies who got begged for sponsorship in my career; I got to see the world from both sides. One of the things, besides a killer marketing deck and also should be a part of one when you make it, is the render. Without it, sponsors don't quite get to see what they are paying for even if it's just product.

While we're getting LS1Tech sponsors to work with us, I do have to reach out and contact those who don't specifically sponsor the forum. In doing so, the number one thing all these guy and gals ask for is a render of the vehicle. While at my time at that marketing gig where we handled motorsports sponsorship, I had someone who could come up with renders and they were damn good.

Me... Well... I'm me. However, while great artwork shouldn't be pushed to the side I do have to work with what I got and that includes my own budget. So, what am I planning on with Ron Burgundy at the moment? This:



This accomplishes several things I am looking for in a livery:
Simple and Clean
Ties in with Ron Burgundy in color scheme
Gives a dual tribute to Bowie and Team Chevy with the lightning bolt

This may change and I may do others as I come up with them before I finalize on something. For now, enjoy my, er, artwork.
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Old 06-07-2016, 11:48 AM   #13
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Those are a nice looking wheel option!!!
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Old 06-07-2016, 04:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Those are a nice looking wheel option!!!
Those are the OE Wheel LLC C7 Stingray wheels. Later today, you'll see another update on them and everyone here will be interested this time.
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Old 06-08-2016, 12:13 PM   #15
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Default Wheel the Vote! Choose the Tire for Ron Burgundy

In the theme of what's going on in politics here in the US and 2016, we here at LS1Tech have decided to join in the fray and do some of our own polling. Yep, we're putting the tire choice up to you guys and you're actually going to be rewarded, unlike this year's election.


So, here are the tire candidates for your selection!

Lakesea Zestino

This candidate promises to last a while with a 240 tread wear rating. However, this tire has to concede in size with a 245/40ZR17 and 265/35ZR18 for Ron Burgundy.

Achilles Radial ATR Sport

While this candidate is a high-performance tire, it's treadwear rating of 400 says otherwise! Sizes in at 255/40/ZR17 and 275/35ZR18.

Nexen Tire N'Fera SU4

It bowed out of competition for some time to come back as an improved candidate! Meets the 200 Treadwear requirement with sizes 255/40/ZR17 and 275/35ZR18!

Toyo Proxes R1R

The standard that NASA uses in competition but the Proxes R1R is the street going version! Hits 200 Treadwear in 255/40ZR17 and 265/35ZR18.

BFGoodrich Rival

The Old School Hero! The BFGoodrich Rival represents the latest in street competition tire with a 200 treadwear in 255/40ZR17 and 275/35ZR18.

There are your five candidates! Voice your vote in the thread by calling out the manufacturer name (Lakesea, Achilles, Nexen, Toyo, BFGoodrich) below and the winning vote will get put on Ron Burgundy. We'll also award a random voter of the winning choice with a $100 gift card to Tire Rack! Just think of yourself as a lobbyist, if you want to hate yourself.

VOTE NOW: We'll be picking a tire winner on 6/20/16!
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Old 06-08-2016, 01:32 PM   #16
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I like the look and wouldnt mind trying the Lakesea Zestino, But not being able to get the size you're looking for sucks.

I guess my Vote would have to go for the proven Toyo Proxes.

In my personal Trials and tribulations, I experienced uneven wear and them going out of balance on my Nexen tires.

None of the BFG's ever seemed to last very long despite what their rating claims.
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Old 06-09-2016, 07:50 PM   #17
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BFG for the win Old school for Ole Ron
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Old 06-10-2016, 01:58 AM   #18
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I say the nexen
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Old 06-10-2016, 09:45 AM   #19
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BFG for sure!
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Old 06-10-2016, 05:57 PM   #20
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Pure street tire.
Federal
http://www.federaltire.com/en/produc...ts_detail_sn=6

If decent amount of street driving will be done.
Federal 595RS-RR
http://www.federaltire.com/en/produc...s_detail_sn=36


If your just gonna drive around town some.
Federal FZ-201
http://www.federaltire.com/en/produc...ts_detail_sn=3
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