Broke EF

Ok guys (and gals) I have a 2007 Chevy Cobalt and currently have the following:

Head Unit: Alpine CDA-9857

Front speakers: JL Audio C2-650x (6.5" coax)

Rear speakers: Diamond audio D393i (6x9" coax)

Sub: Infinity Perfect 10d VQ in a custom sealed fiberglass box

Sub Amp: Alpine MRP-M500

The interior speakers are driven off of the head unit, and I will most likely keep it that way. My big complaint is that I have no way to crossover the interiors. I am looking for a head unit with more audio adjustability, but still retains the same functionality for my iPod as my current Alpine. I have looked at the new Alpine units that do not have CD and though they are nice, it seems like you need a lot of add on’s for them to be truly bad ***. I have also been looking at the new Pioneers, but I don’t know how good they will be with the iPod (Alpine seems to excel at this). Let's hear what everyone has to say.



Thanks,

Sean

dragonrage

Get an external crossover, or an amp with a crossover. I use a JL 500/5 for front speakers + subwoofer, and use the crossover for the fronts, so all channels are used.

Or you could get a Pioneer 880PRS or 800PRS (despite the lower number, the 800 is newer). Eclipse has some similar stuff also.

BandDirector Blk98ZM6

iTrader: (21)

I'm running a Pioneer DEH-P6000UB in my DD and it's AWESOME! It's also on sale at Crutchfield right now for $149. Back when I bought mine, they were $250. It has several build in x-overs, 4V outs, and works GREAT with the iPods. Check it out!

...oh and don't worry about the cheesy displays pictured, there are SEVERAL screens to choose from that range from plain, classic, to just weird. I have mine set to just display the band, song, and then an EQ in the right had corner. Looks good!

kny3twalker

iTrader: (31)

The Pioneer DEH-P6000UB does not have a built in crossover for active 2 way or 3 way, like the pioneers listed by dragonrage. Another option is the Alpine 9887, it can do active 3 way. Or you can buy an external crossover and keep your headunit you have like dragonrage said

BandDirector Blk98ZM6

iTrader: (21)

Pionner DEH-P6000UB built in crossover features:

Subwoofer Output: The unit has a pair of dedicated non-fading RCA subwoofer outputs with a low-pass filter, phase adjustment, and output level. When the subwoofer output is turned on, you can select the frequency of the 18dB/octave low pass filter (50, 63, 80, 100, or 125 Hz), select the subwoofer phase (normal/reverse), and the subwoofer gain (+6 to -24

High Pass Filter: If you do not want low frequency sounds to play from the front or rear speaker outputs, you can turn on the 12dB/octave High Pass Filter. The HPF has a selectable cutoff frequency (50, 63, 80, 100, or 125 Hz). Only frequencies higher than those in the selected range are output through the speakers.

Now I'm not sure if the high pass filter is on just the spaker outputs, RCA outputs or both, but Crutchfield should be able to answer that question. I'm just using the RCA outs on mine, so I haven't tried the HPF option because my amp has the x-over settings I like.

Granted the Alpine 9887 does have some impressive built in x-over features, but it's also $200+ more than the Pioneer. If price is no object, then the Alpine is clearly the better choice, but if you're on a budget, the Pioneer just might get the job done.

dragonrage

Dude, that is a subwoofer crossover, which essentially every deck with a subwoofer out has. You're comparing totally different features here. If the guy had listened to you on this one, he would have spent $100 or whatever on something that works no better than what he has now. (Well, that and getting away from the FUGLY faceplates that Alpine makes )

kny3twalker

iTrader: (31)

I think you mean Pioneer right?

kny3twalker

iTrader: (31)

As Dragonrage said, thats not for crossing over mids and highs, only subwoofer vs main speakers

BandDirector Blk98ZM6

iTrader: (21)

He asked for a HU that would NOT send a full range signal to his "interior speakers" and he said "he will most likely keep it that way." If he has components (which he doesn't), then they should have come with passive crossovers, and if he has co-ax (which he does), then they too, should already have a crossover as well for the mid to tweeter, so if you read his post, he's asking for a HU that will send a hi-pass signal to his speakers, which is what the Pioneer WILL do.

Here's a quote from my post:

High Pass Filter: If you do not want low frequency sounds to play from the front or rear speaker outputs, you can turn on the 12dB/octave High Pass Filter. The HPF has a selectable cutoff frequency (50, 63, 80, 100, or 125 Hz). Only frequencies higher than those in the selected range are output through the speakers.

I'm not arguing that the Alpine 9887 is a superior HU as far as MORE adjustability, but what he's asking for in his post, the Pioneer WILL do what he wants it to do for $200 less, and the Pioneer has VERY good SQ that's at least equal to the Alpine. I've installed both and used the iPod with both.

And, after checking the specs of his current 9857, I can't see where he has ANY built in HP or LP crossovers or filters at all, so the Pioneer WOULD most definitely be an improvement over his current HU and will most likely do exactly what he's asking for $200 less than the 9887.

Broke EF

OK guys we can stop the Headunit arguing, things have changed a lil. I decided to go with an interior amp instead. I know I said I was against putting an amp on the interiors but the more I look around the better that seems. I think my plans have shifted into an Alpine MRP-F300 which is the same size as my current Alpine MRP-M500 meaning I can fit it under the driver seat keeping with my clean look. It is 50x4 so I don’t think I will have to worry too much about over powering the sub, but I will have much more head room. Wiring wise they both take 8ga input for power but different amp fuses, so I think I plan on getting a Stinger pro fused distribution block that takes 1 4ga in, through two separate AGU fuses (1 50 amp for the interior amp, and 1 60 amp for the sub amp) that then go to two 8ga outs. That takes care of power and fusing all in one so it will take up less space and look cleaner.


The one concern I had was with just the one amp when I turn the system up the lights dim. I took care of this lil problem by adding a Kinetic KHC800 battery, and upgrading the big 3. Battery is already on the way, wire will be orderd tomorrow, and amp soon. Worst case senario the amp dosnt solve all my problems, I can just get a head unit that has more adjustablity AND an amp What do you all think?


Sean

Broke EF

OK, I got the battery Friday and ordered the wire yesterday. The plan is to obviously change out the battery to the Kinetic HC800 and upgrade the ground. Currently the stock ground is just an 8ga to a ring terminal, so I'm going to change it to a 4ga and bring it to one of these. We will see how that works for now because upgrading the rest will be a big pain in the butt. The main wire coming into the battery is a 4ga, but I am not sure that it is straight from the alternator. For all I know it could be 16ga from the alternator into a distribution center, then 4ga to the battery from there. When I start doing all the work I will look into the factory wiring a little more, but I have already been told from some cobalt experts that I shouldn't have to upgrade the main power wire. Anyway thats all for now, just figured I'd give you all an update. I'll post pics when I'm installing it all in a couple weeks.

Sean

dragonrage

The battery is NOT the way to fix that problem -_-

For that ground terminal, make sure to scrape the paint off, and I would use dielectric grease where the wire comes in, or spray it with battery terminal protector after. I had the exact same product on an old car and I didn't do that and it corroded pretty quickly.

Broke EF

OK on with the install!!!

We will start with the door wiring. Since I have a 0 option car I ony had 2 small (20ga?) wires going to the door as seen here.


I took that out and was greeted with this.


I then decided that I could just taket that out since I dont need it for anything now, so I got this



And here is the stock wiring that came out


I then ran my new stinger 14ga wire through the stock gromets and threw in the new speakers (JL Audio C2-650x)


Moving on to the trunk I was changing the battery to a new Kinetic KHC800 battery, adding a ground, and redoing the amp wiring.

Here you can see the battery mocked up with the pices I had to make inorder to hold the battery with the factory tie down.


Here is the battery without the top piece (The wires were from a battery tender)


Here is the bottom piece to hold the battery from side to side and front to back movement.

and painted


Here is the new Stinger distrobution block that has 2 seprate fuses because each amp needs a different rating. It has 4ga in and 2 8ga out.


Here is new 4ga ground lug I added (the paint was ground off underneith it)


Here is a shot of all the power side of things


Here is the ground side


And over all


Next came running the new RCA's adding my Sirius box, and cleaning up some of my wiring behind the headunit. I didnt get many pics of all of this but you can see the sirius box on the bottom left and the strat of cleaning up the wiring.


Now the best part, installing the new amp!! Here is just seeing how it will look (you can see some of the mess in this pic)


Installed


And both together



Well thats all the pics I took, I was to busy working to get very many. Over all I am VERY happy with it, sounds a lot better and is a lot louder! Sorry for the long post, but Im excited about my stereo.


Sean