<<<security light issue>>> help
10-13-2010, 01:08 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<<<security light issue>>> help Since i have had my t/a i have upgraded the radio and speakers to add some bass to it. My factory radio is gone and has been for years.
Now, some punk *** idiot used a screwdriver on the drivers door key hole and apparently got in (stole nothing as nothing was in the car). Now my security light is on and will not go off even though i held the lock/unlock on the remote to reset the security system.
How do i get the securtiy light off without the factory radio?
Now, some punk *** idiot used a screwdriver on the drivers door key hole and apparently got in (stole nothing as nothing was in the car). Now my security light is on and will not go off even though i held the lock/unlock on the remote to reset the security system.
How do i get the securtiy light off without the factory radio?
10-13-2010, 02:43 PM
#2
Neither the radio nor the alarm system have anything to do with the security light in the instrument cluster. The radio has its own red LED for the TheftLock system (when it's activated) and the alarm system has an LED on top of the dash next to the defroster vent.
The security light is part of the VATS system that checks for a valid ignition key before allowing the car to start. Usually you can clean the resistor pellet contacts on the key and the contacts inside the ignition cylinder (using spray contact cleaner from Radio Shack) to get the light to go off. It is possible that the ignition cylinder was physically damaged during the break-in which would require either a new cylinder or bypassing the VATS system. A search for "VATS bypass" will give you plenty of information.
The security light is part of the VATS system that checks for a valid ignition key before allowing the car to start. Usually you can clean the resistor pellet contacts on the key and the contacts inside the ignition cylinder (using spray contact cleaner from Radio Shack) to get the light to go off. It is possible that the ignition cylinder was physically damaged during the break-in which would require either a new cylinder or bypassing the VATS system. A search for "VATS bypass" will give you plenty of information.
10-13-2010, 09:41 PM
#3
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Brownsville, texas
Posts: 620
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Since i have had my t/a i have upgraded the radio and speakers to add some bass to it. My factory radio is gone and has been for years.
Now, some punk *** idiot used a screwdriver on the drivers door key hole and apparently got in (stole nothing as nothing was in the car). Now my security light is on and will not go off even though i held the lock/unlock on the remote to reset the security system.
How do i get the securtiy light off without the factory radio?
Now, some punk *** idiot used a screwdriver on the drivers door key hole and apparently got in (stole nothing as nothing was in the car). Now my security light is on and will not go off even though i held the lock/unlock on the remote to reset the security system.
How do i get the securtiy light off without the factory radio?
10-13-2010, 10:37 PM
#4
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
question answered. Thanks WhiteBird00
I now have a new VATS ignition that I need to install but where can I get the VATS key?
I am aware of the necesary ohms and how to get the code but where do I buy the keys from?
I now have a new VATS ignition that I need to install but where can I get the VATS key?
I am aware of the necesary ohms and how to get the code but where do I buy the keys from?
10-14-2010, 07:12 AM
#5
You shouldn't need a new key unless it has been physically damaged or is missing. The VATS code is stored in the BCM so replacing the ignition cylinder won't affect which key matches.
When you insert the key into the ignition cylinder, the contacts on the resistor pellet connect with the contacts inside the cylinder completing the circuit to the BCM. The BCM measures the resistance on the circuit and compares it to the value stored in its memory. If they match, the car will start otherwise the BCM turns on the security light.
If you can't use the original (or spare) key then you have a problem. There are 15 different values (only 14 were used in f-bodies) of resistance and one of them is permanently programmed in your BCM. You would have to find a key blank with a pellet matching that value. You could buy one each of the 14 possible key blanks and try them until one works. You could replace the BCM with a new one (new BCMs program themselves to the first key used). You could get the dealer to determine which key blank is necessary but I've heard horror stories of how much they charge for that service. Or, I've heard that some locksmiths can do it for you for much less money. Your other option would be to do a VATS bypass, trying every possible value until you find the one that works.
When you insert the key into the ignition cylinder, the contacts on the resistor pellet connect with the contacts inside the cylinder completing the circuit to the BCM. The BCM measures the resistance on the circuit and compares it to the value stored in its memory. If they match, the car will start otherwise the BCM turns on the security light.
If you can't use the original (or spare) key then you have a problem. There are 15 different values (only 14 were used in f-bodies) of resistance and one of them is permanently programmed in your BCM. You would have to find a key blank with a pellet matching that value. You could buy one each of the 14 possible key blanks and try them until one works. You could replace the BCM with a new one (new BCMs program themselves to the first key used). You could get the dealer to determine which key blank is necessary but I've heard horror stories of how much they charge for that service. Or, I've heard that some locksmiths can do it for you for much less money. Your other option would be to do a VATS bypass, trying every possible value until you find the one that works.
10-14-2010, 11:19 AM
#6
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Understood, but here is my issue. the new VATS ignition I have came with a plastic key inserted in the cylinder. Of couse the ignition key does not match my key (duh) but this means that I have to get a new ignition key made to match the plastic one.
Basically my plan was to find out what the resistor oms were on the key and purchase a key that is coded to that frequency new. Then go to ace and have them match the VATS key to the plastic one. Then swap out the cylinder on the column, insert the new matching key and start the motor.
will that work?
Basically my plan was to find out what the resistor oms were on the key and purchase a key that is coded to that frequency new. Then go to ace and have them match the VATS key to the plastic one. Then swap out the cylinder on the column, insert the new matching key and start the motor.
will that work?
10-14-2010, 11:28 AM
#7
Yes, that's one way (buy a key blank that matches the resistor value of your current key then get the blank cut to match the new cylinder).
The other way is to get the new ignition cylinder cut to match your current key. Any locksmith should be able to do this for you... actually, with the right tools you can do it yourself. It involves inserting the original key in the new cylinder and grinding the protruding tumblers flush with the rotating assembly.
The other way is to get the new ignition cylinder cut to match your current key. Any locksmith should be able to do this for you... actually, with the right tools you can do it yourself. It involves inserting the original key in the new cylinder and grinding the protruding tumblers flush with the rotating assembly.
