Cheap Guy

iTrader: (3)

I had to chose between getting replacement component speakers for my blown Monsoon passenger side speaker or buying a new HU with usb/aux in since I mainly listen to sat radio or my iPod. I got a good deal on an aftermarket HU so that killed the $$$ for speakers. After reading a bunch of threads, I decide to try to do the coaxial to component speaker mod for a temporary speaker fix.

NOTE: I’m not an audio expert and I fully plan on getting real component speakers later on. I figured what the hell, what do I have to lose since I already had a pair of coax speakers lying around. Also, you’re trying this at your own risk – I have no idea what could happen to your amp or speakers if you mix up the wires

I basically followed the info in these threads; especially the Monsoon FAQ, which details which wires go to the tweeter.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...come-here.html

http://forum.camarov6.com/showthread.php?t=41763

https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...nsoon-faq.html

After taking the door panel off, everything was just as listed in the FAQ as far as wiring. To remove the speaker, you need to take out the entire housing to easily get to the stock wiring connector; only three screws need to come out.








After taking out the speakers, I was carefully to clearly label each wire as listed in the FAQ. I cut the stock wiring harness off the blown Monsoon, clipped the tweeter wires off the coax replacement and soldered the wires as appropriate. I didn’t clip the tweeter wire close because I can re-solder them and reuse them when I get real component speaker.

This is an easy project IF you can solder, if not, you might be able to do it with crimps if you get a replacement speaker with easily accessible tweeter wires. The best thing is that you don’t have to butcher any stock wiring to do this mod and everything can easily be put back to stock.

How do they sound? They sound like I modified cheap coaxial speaker, LOL. In other words, they're okay. Maybe if I had a better speaker they would be acceptable, but as I said this is more of a temporary fix and they actually sound better than the stock Monsoon speakers, and definitely better than a blown speaker.

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

Let me first say that you did the correct thing as far as the wiring goes. A common problem with the Camaro is people trying to twist the 2 pairs of wires together and really mess things up. You also did a great job by reusing the stock connector...I highly recommend doing this when replacing the stock speaker because it does allow you to plug back into the stock harness without cutting it.
I would not recommend doing this with a coaxial like the one you used though. There are several inexpensive coaxials that have the tweeter wires exposed in the rear of the speaker that run up the back of the magnet. These are the type of coaxials you want to use for doing this mod if you do it at all. The way it is done here works until you start getting vibrations from the wires slapping the cone on the speaker. If you do not know how to solder and do this you will definitely have a problem with the wires coming loose as they will vibrate laying on top of the speaker.
I have several speakers that will work with this mod that have an exposed tweeter provision in the rear from Alpine, Infinity, JBL, Clarion and MTX.
I also have the correct speakers that allow for the proper mounting and wiring in a Camaro, stock location and all. The CDT CL-61CV is a component set that converts to a coaxial but still retains the separate tweeter and midbass wires. These are the ones I use in my packages. The tweeter mount on them is also aimable so you can aim it toward you vs. the back of your leg like stock.
Prices start around $86.00 for a quality set of speakers from JBL. The CDT CL-61CV is $169.00 shipped to the lower 48 states. I would highly recommend something like that vs. a temporary fix. You will be alot happier with the results and not have to mess with it again.

Cheap Guy

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the comments.

I love to try stuff people post in forums, so long as it doesn't cost me too much money or will cause permanent/serious/expensive damage to my car. As I stated, while this mod "works" it really isn't close to a substitute for doing it right - buying component speakers. Same for the Aux In mod. While it technically "works" it really isn't a true substitute for doing it right. The speakers I used cost $20 and my Monsoon HU is pretty much toast so trying both mods wasn't too risky. As you know, the hardest part of this was taking off the door panels.

Now that I know that the conversion works, I may follow your advice and go with a higher quality speaker to mod, but the real solution would be to just do it right and get component.

Having said that, my HU came in the mail today, so it's out to garage.

TWS

iTrader: (63)

Kee Audio, as another audio idiot I want to ask which component speakers out there have 2 sets of connecting tabs? One for the mid and one for the tweeter like on the factory speaker. I want to remove and use the factory speaker wires and want to just solder the tweeter wires to a tweeter connection, and mid to mid. Straight forward and direct, no splice and dice.
Thanks in advance!

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

For the type of mod your refering to I use both the CDT CL-61CV and the CL-E61CV in my packages. These both work exactly like stock in Camaros and Firebirds for that matter. The nice thing is that they are wired and mounted exactly like stock in a Camaro. The center cap is removed and is replaced with a supplied center post that the tweeter mounts on to. The tweeter wires go through the center post and out the back of the magnet. This also allows the tweeter to swivel and be aimed upward for better imaging then stock. The tweeter wires can then be connected to the separate tweeter wires and the midbass portion can also be connected separately.
While they do cost a little more, they wire up exactly like stock, can be mounted like stock with no mods, and are very, nice audiophile grade component speaker systems using the latest technology in phase plug design. This is why I use them specifically in my packages because of the sound quality they can produce, ease of installation, and they work in both F-Body cars equally well.

Forgot to mention they are marked down right now for $159.99 including shipping to the lower 48 states.

TWS

iTrader: (63)

Thanks! I will check them out on your website as soon as I get some breathing room at work today.

DukesOfHazard

So for this mod did you clip the wire for the capacitor and solder it together with the negative wire to the tweeter? Or what did you do with that?

Reason I ask is because I'm looking at some new speakers I got right now and the negative is what is connected to the capacitor, not the positive.

Cheap Guy

iTrader: (3)

IIRC, the speaker I used as guinea pigs didn't have a capacitor on it. But I would assume that if it has it, keep it the same, meaning if the negative has the capacitor, just solder it inline. That would be the safe thing to do.

DukesOfHazard

Awesome. I will try hooking it up tomorrow when I have daylight. That's what I thought but I had kinda freaked out since i had already soldered it together like I had mentioned since I thought I had read it like that lol. Cheap little Sony Xplode 6.5's but definitely better than two blown front speakers. I really appreciate the help man.

Cheap Guy

iTrader: (3)

No prob. Let us know how it turns out.

ThreeFiveSS

iTrader: (1)

I just completed the Infinity 62.7i install in my Monsoon vert, all four speakers, and it went flawlessly. Quick tip - double up the spacers on the back speakers to keep clear of the vert mechanism, and be sure any slack in the speaker wires is tied close to the speaker to avoid the window/vert from catching and pulling out all your hard work. Also had a strange problem - everytime I put it in reverse the radio would cut out...realized later that my elbow was hitting the mute button on the steering wheel when I turned around to back her up. Thought I had a short somewhere, just user error...