2x 6.5" subs vs 1x 10" stealth box sub?
10-09-2012, 05:41 AM
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2x 6.5" subs vs 1x 10" stealth box sub? so which one would provide me wit the better bass quality- 2x 6.5" subs in the sail panels or leave my current coaxials in the sails and throw a 10" sub in a stealth box in the back? itll all be run off of an aftermarket amp made for 300w rms and 600w max.
btw, the options im looking at would be from doubledmods and the 6.5" subs are the $90 bazooka dvc ones and the 10" stealth sub would likely be the kenwood excelon they carry.
btw, the options im looking at would be from doubledmods and the 6.5" subs are the $90 bazooka dvc ones and the 10" stealth sub would likely be the kenwood excelon they carry.
10-09-2012, 09:50 AM
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6.5's will never be able to deliver much in the 30-80 Hz range, unless you got some with a super amount of excursion. The 6.5's overlap in operating frequency with the midbass cones on the doors, and act as a supplement in the 80-250 Hz range for them. Together they deliver a much fuller wound than the doors alone could offer in the ranges the doors are capable of reaching, but not with the same amount of proportional mid-bass.
If you want good sub-bass response, you'll need a 10" or 12" with an external amp to push frequencies below 80 Hz.
It doesn't have to be an "either/or" situation. I run both in my own setup, with the filters set to allow the operating ranges to barely overlap.
If you want good sub-bass response, you'll need a 10" or 12" with an external amp to push frequencies below 80 Hz.
It doesn't have to be an "either/or" situation. I run both in my own setup, with the filters set to allow the operating ranges to barely overlap.
10-09-2012, 11:34 AM
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also should have mentioned- currently, i dont have an amp wired in my car at all but i DO have a 4-channel amp ready to go in. as of now, i just have 4x coaxial speakers running off of the headunit. 1x in each door and 1x in each sail panel. if i went wit the 6.5"s in the sails, id move my sail coaxials to the hatch area and run the door speakers off the headunit still then have the 6.5"s and hatch speakers running from the sub
Last edited by Avaric3; 10-09-2012 at 11:39 AM.
10-09-2012, 12:44 PM
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also should have mentioned- currently, i dont have an amp wired in my car at all but i DO have a 4-channel amp ready to go in. as of now, i just have 4x coaxial speakers running off of the headunit. 1x in each door and 1x in each sail panel. if i went wit the 6.5"s in the sails, id move my sail coaxials to the hatch area and run the door speakers off the headunit still then have the 6.5"s and hatch speakers running from the sub
If it were me, I would run the doors and hatch from the HU and let the external 4 channel amp run 2x DVC mid-bass cones in sails. Set up the HU HPF/LPF and your amp filter in combination to make a mid-bass bandpass setup using either sub or main RCA outputs (assuming you have an aftermarket HU with RCA outputs).
10-09-2012, 01:11 PM
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Heres my headunit- (non-sponsor link removed)
and my kenwood amp- (non-sponsor link removed)
and my kenwood amp- (non-sponsor link removed)
•RMS Power Range : 200-300 Watts
•Number Of Channels: 4
•Maximum Power: 600 Watts
•Built In Crossovers: Yes
•Number Of Channels: 4
•Maximum Power: 600 Watts
•Built In Crossovers: Yes
Last edited by WhiteBird00; 10-10-2012 at 07:14 AM.
10-09-2012, 03:00 PM
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300W is only in bridged mode, it's a 100W amp. Set the HU HPF to 80 Hz. Run the front RCAs to the amp. Set the amp to "A" input on both sides, LPF to 200 (max). Hook up all 4 channels to the DVCs. Midbass will output 80-200Hz. Total cost $90 plus wiring.
Cost of a 10": enclosure, new monoblock amp, cone, wiring... $300+.
Cost of a 10": enclosure, new monoblock amp, cone, wiring... $300+.
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10-09-2012, 03:15 PM
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300W is only in bridged mode, it's a 100W amp. Set the HU HPF to 80 Hz. Run the front RCAs to the amp. Set the amp to "A" input on both sides, LPF to 200 (max). Hook up all 4 channels to the DVCs. Midbass will output 80-200Hz. Total cost $90 plus wiring.
Cost of a 10": enclosure, new monoblock amp, cone, wiring... $300+.
Cost of a 10": enclosure, new monoblock amp, cone, wiring... $300+.
Last edited by Avaric3; 10-09-2012 at 03:28 PM.
10-10-2012, 02:13 PM
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and just throwin it out there for everyone- i have my interior, doors, trunk and hatch covered wit sound deadening mat (Raammat BXT) and wit closed cell foam (Ensolite PS) over that.
10-10-2012, 09:29 PM
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What you could do and what I'm planning to do - since you have a 4 channel amp - drive your door speakers with 2 channels (high pass). Then do a series/parallel deal with the 2 sail panel Bazookas and a 10" or 12" sub. It would equate to a 6 ohm load (not optimal) but would protect your amp even more. You could do a bridged mono with that. Cross that over around 80 Hz.
10-13-2012, 12:37 PM
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300W is only in bridged mode, it's a 100W amp. Set the HU HPF to 80 Hz. Run the front RCAs to the amp. Set the amp to "A" input on both sides, LPF to 200 (max). Hook up all 4 channels to the DVCs. Midbass will output 80-200Hz. Total cost $90 plus wiring.
Cost of a 10": enclosure, new monoblock amp, cone, wiring... $300+.
Cost of a 10": enclosure, new monoblock amp, cone, wiring... $300+.
wait, i think i got it- i should wire the left "A" to one voice coil then wire the left "B" to the other voice coil on the same sub. then same wit the other sub and the right side
Last edited by Avaric3; 10-13-2012 at 01:35 PM.
10-13-2012, 01:53 PM
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You want to make sure that both coils on the same cone get the same signal. Mixing left and right sources into different coils on the same cone will create problems.
The way I understood it from your manual (the links got deleted, I don't remember the model), the amp is essentially two stereo amps (A and B) in one box. You're only gonna send in a single pair of RCA inputs, red and white. So, two inputs turn into four outputs.
I *think* you want to select single input for both halves of the amp, sending red to one side and white to the other, then send both channels from that half (labeled confusingly A-Left with A-Right and separately B-Left with B-Right) to the same cone. ...but, I'd need to see manual again to be sure, so I'd need to know the model number again. Don't link any retail vendors, just give the model number.
The way I understood it from your manual (the links got deleted, I don't remember the model), the amp is essentially two stereo amps (A and B) in one box. You're only gonna send in a single pair of RCA inputs, red and white. So, two inputs turn into four outputs.
I *think* you want to select single input for both halves of the amp, sending red to one side and white to the other, then send both channels from that half (labeled confusingly A-Left with A-Right and separately B-Left with B-Right) to the same cone. ...but, I'd need to see manual again to be sure, so I'd need to know the model number again. Don't link any retail vendors, just give the model number.
10-13-2012, 02:01 PM
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You want to make sure that both coils on the same cone get the same signal. Mixing left and right sources into different coils on the same cone will create problems.
The way I understood it from your manual (the links got deleted, I don't remember the model), the amp is essentially two stereo amps (A and B) in one box. You're only gonna send in a single pair of RCA inputs, red and white. So, two inputs turn into four outputs.
I *think* you want to select single input for both halves of the amp, sending red to one side and white to the other, then send both channels from that half (labeled confusingly A-Left with A-Right and separately B-Left with B-Right) to the same cone. ...but, I'd need to see manual again to be sure, so I'd need to know the model number again. Don't link any retail vendors, just give the model number.
The way I understood it from your manual (the links got deleted, I don't remember the model), the amp is essentially two stereo amps (A and B) in one box. You're only gonna send in a single pair of RCA inputs, red and white. So, two inputs turn into four outputs.
I *think* you want to select single input for both halves of the amp, sending red to one side and white to the other, then send both channels from that half (labeled confusingly A-Left with A-Right and separately B-Left with B-Right) to the same cone. ...but, I'd need to see manual again to be sure, so I'd need to know the model number again. Don't link any retail vendors, just give the model number.
10-13-2012, 05:41 PM
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http://www.kenwoodusa.com/UserFiles/...als/kac748.pdf
Plug the RCAs, red and white, both into the LEFT inputs for A and B, one into A-LEFT-IN and other into B-LEFT-IN (Yes, you will have a red cable into a white input)
Then select MONO input for both sides, on the side A control and on the side B control.
On the INPUT SELECTOR, select AB (not A)
Then run RIGHT and LEFT output for side A to one cone, and RIGHT and LEFT output of side B to the other cone.
On the RCA cable, red is right channel and white is left channel, as you face forward inside the car.
You can probably accomplish the same thing by setting the input selector to A and Stereo on both sides, plug into A-Right-In and A-Left-In, and then A-left+B-left to left cone and A-Right and B-Right to the right cone, but what I outlined above should work.
Plug the RCAs, red and white, both into the LEFT inputs for A and B, one into A-LEFT-IN and other into B-LEFT-IN (Yes, you will have a red cable into a white input)
Then select MONO input for both sides, on the side A control and on the side B control.
On the INPUT SELECTOR, select AB (not A)
Then run RIGHT and LEFT output for side A to one cone, and RIGHT and LEFT output of side B to the other cone.
On the RCA cable, red is right channel and white is left channel, as you face forward inside the car.
You can probably accomplish the same thing by setting the input selector to A and Stereo on both sides, plug into A-Right-In and A-Left-In, and then A-left+B-left to left cone and A-Right and B-Right to the right cone, but what I outlined above should work.
Last edited by Capricio; 10-13-2012 at 09:21 PM.
10-13-2012, 09:20 PM
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NIETHER!! You're driving them independently, just like the old Monsoon did. Each coil has its own amp channel. Series or parallel configurations are usually for when you're hooking up a monoblock amp and want to play around with the impedance.
. They sound great with no rattle.