Do seats thump with the 10" Stealthbox's?
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do seats thump with the 10" Stealthbox's?
Hey guys...I'm in the process of changing all the speakers over from the Monsoon system in my TA. I know they aren't going to put out the amount of bass I'm looking for. How much bass should I expect from an average sub/amp combo with the 10" stealthbox on the drivers side? Is it going to make the rearview mirror vibrate, the seat etc? I'm kinda looking for that...let me know...thanks!
#2
What sub and amp combination are you going with? If you have a GOOD sub and match it with a decent amp, you can get alot out of it. If you are looking at the enclosures on subthump, one thing you may want to look at is the Kicker L5 or L7. You can get them in a 10", but since they are square you have more cone area, so they will move more air. Well that is the idea behind them being square anyway. That and you can get them for a decent price.
#5
Launching!
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: DFW, Tx
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've got one Infinity Perfect 10 in my 04 Monte Carlo and even though it's a trunk car with a thick backseat it will still rattle things up front.
Can't wait until the new system gets here for it so I can move this thing over to the T/A.
Can't wait until the new system gets here for it so I can move this thing over to the T/A.
#7
I wouldn't say you're gonna shake things up.... but it DOES bump a surprising amount. If you're actually looking to feel an impact on your body, you're gonna need a something a little stronger...
Trending Topics
#8
Launching!
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i wouldnt go with that type of box if youre lookin for bump. our cars are small. use it to your advantage... a single 10" sub sitting in the right spot will rattle your nuts off. consider placing it on the hump behind the rear seats. this will cause the sound to bounce all around especially off the rear windshield and thus sending the bump towards you. look for a speaker that has dual voice coils and an amp that will run strong at 2 ohms... with a 10" sub there is no need for a huge amp. look for something around 400-600watts. youll be satisfied and soon turning your bump down. and the car will rattle. good luck dude.
p.s. torque thrust is spelled wrong in your sig.
p.s. torque thrust is spelled wrong in your sig.
#9
Originally Posted by RelentleZ
consider placing it on the hump behind the rear seats. this will cause the sound to bounce all around especially off the rear windshield and thus sending the bump towards you.
And have you ever heard the stealth design in an F-body?
#10
You dont wont the sound to bounce all around if you wont the sound good and clean not much bass go with a singel 8in it takes less room easy to control ect... if you wont more go with 10in but takes more power and box space and put any box in the trunk facing the rear window this will give you the best acoustic sound wave to the front.
#12
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For any sub setup you need to carefully choose your components for the best results.
Step 1
Choose the box size you can live with, then find out how big the box is, and if you are going to go sealed or ported (in a stealth with a 10 you probibly will be going sealed)
Step 2
research and find out which subs will work properly in your box. There are lots of good subs out there, but even a great sub in the wrong box will sound like poop. You can also make some cheap subs sound great if they are in the right box. For example, a buddy of mine had a setup in his truck he wasn't happy with at all, just some cheap subs in a generic truckbox and a 200 watt amp. I took the subs he had, built a box sized for those subs specifically, and when I was done he had a system that made the mirrors dance. A proper box and sub combo is essential.
Also, higher power handling subs and a larger amp does not necessarily mean it will be louder than a cheap setup. Volume is a function of efficiency and power, and generally when comparing subs with otherwise similar charecteristics, the high power handling sub will be less efficient than lower rated sub. For example (and this is grossly simplified) an sub rated at 89db and fed 130 watts will produce 110db, while a sub rated at 86db will require 260 watts to reach 110db. So you will not see any real advantage of the "better" sub untill you push more than double the power that you would push the the cheap sub. I am not advocating either route, just trying to encourage you to do your homework.
Step 3
Choose your amp. Buy am amp that is a little more than your subs need. More subs are killed by underpowering them than overpowering them.
Of course you can skip all these steps if you can find someone else with a system you like and buy the same thing.
Step 1
Choose the box size you can live with, then find out how big the box is, and if you are going to go sealed or ported (in a stealth with a 10 you probibly will be going sealed)
Step 2
research and find out which subs will work properly in your box. There are lots of good subs out there, but even a great sub in the wrong box will sound like poop. You can also make some cheap subs sound great if they are in the right box. For example, a buddy of mine had a setup in his truck he wasn't happy with at all, just some cheap subs in a generic truckbox and a 200 watt amp. I took the subs he had, built a box sized for those subs specifically, and when I was done he had a system that made the mirrors dance. A proper box and sub combo is essential.
Also, higher power handling subs and a larger amp does not necessarily mean it will be louder than a cheap setup. Volume is a function of efficiency and power, and generally when comparing subs with otherwise similar charecteristics, the high power handling sub will be less efficient than lower rated sub. For example (and this is grossly simplified) an sub rated at 89db and fed 130 watts will produce 110db, while a sub rated at 86db will require 260 watts to reach 110db. So you will not see any real advantage of the "better" sub untill you push more than double the power that you would push the the cheap sub. I am not advocating either route, just trying to encourage you to do your homework.
Step 3
Choose your amp. Buy am amp that is a little more than your subs need. More subs are killed by underpowering them than overpowering them.
Of course you can skip all these steps if you can find someone else with a system you like and buy the same thing.
Last edited by TA guy; 12-16-2005 at 01:48 PM.
#14
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
A dual 10" or 12" bandpass box in the hatch is the poor man's way to loudness, but you lose your t-top storage area.
A solid 10" stealth box, well powered, would provide more bass than is necessary for accurate music. You'll feel it but it won't be totally moving the mirror.
If you really want to have obnoxious thump then don't bother with the 10"/stealth. Jump right into a couple 12's and be done with it. Don't deny what it is you really want.
Having said that our cars are very easy to make loud bass in due to the hatch reineforcement. So if you were happy with a single 10" in the trunk of a different car or a SUV, for example... you'd be happy with a 10" in a f-bod for sure.
A solid 10" stealth box, well powered, would provide more bass than is necessary for accurate music. You'll feel it but it won't be totally moving the mirror.
If you really want to have obnoxious thump then don't bother with the 10"/stealth. Jump right into a couple 12's and be done with it. Don't deny what it is you really want.
Having said that our cars are very easy to make loud bass in due to the hatch reineforcement. So if you were happy with a single 10" in the trunk of a different car or a SUV, for example... you'd be happy with a 10" in a f-bod for sure.
#16
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arlington TX
Posts: 5,276
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by YOOFORMULA
I run a stealthbox in the driver side hatch with an S10L7 and an ESX800D and my rear view and side mirrors shake violently, so I am very pleased with mine for now.