DROPTAWP

This install took me approx. 5 hours but I hit a few snags along the way. Won't go into the details now but it is a simple mod to do and if done the 'right' way, then should take no longer than 3 hours to complete.

Instructions for the DEI 530t install:

1) Remove the three screws that fastens the door trim panel to the door.
2) Remove the mirror access cover ( one screw )
3) Pry loose the switch panel from the door panel. Use a flat blade driver and pop it free.
4) Now that the switch panel is loose, use a small flat blade driver and pry the door lock **** off the rod. Remove the lock ****.
5) Unplug the wire harnesses for the windows, locks, mirrors and remove the courtesy lamp from the switch panel ( push, turn and pull ).
6) Remove door trim panel by lifting it up and then away from the door.
7) Remove plastic covering on the door.
8) Remove speaker ( three screws ) and unplug harness.
9) Remove drivers side kick panel ( 5 screws )
10) Pull out both ends of rubber wire harness boot that goes from the door to the car body.

You have to run some of the wires from the 530t into the drivers door. A little tricky but can be done! Separate the wires on the 530t's harnesses that have to go into the door from the ones that will stay under the dash. The ones that will go into the door are the motor wires ( Up and Down Motor #'s 1 and 2 ), the switch wires ( Up and Down Switch #'s 1 and 2) and the orange 'ground when armed' wire if hooking up to a 'lock' input if so desired ( I did not connect this wire even though I threaded it through to the door. You never know, maybe sometime in the future! ) Now that you have the wires separated, wrap up about eight inches of the end of the 'door' wire bundle with electrical tape ( or any other tape you may have handy ). By pushing your fingers through the hole in the body where the boot was ( as a reference to where the wires have to go ), you can push the taped wire bundle through the kick panel area ( near the hood release ) and out the body hole. This was the tricky part.... while pushing on the wires from the inside, thread the taped portion through the rubber boot , then through the door hole and into the the door. Remove tape around wires.

Now, find a place for the 530t in the kick panel area ( beside the 'dead pedal' mount is good )

Now, look down from the top of the door and you will see a silver coloured part next to the window regulator. That is the window drive motor. There will be two wires from the motor. A dark blue wire and a brown wire. By reaching through the hole in the door where the speaker sits, get a hold of the motor wires and pull them down a bit so that you can work on them ( Do not use the dark blue and brown wires at the switch. They do not go to the motor! ). Cut both dark blue and brown motor wires in the door. Trim off about 3/8" of the insulation from all four wire ends. Cut the light blue and tan wires that go to the drivers door window switch. Leaving a length of wire on either side to work with. Trim off 3/8" of insulation from the four wire ends. The best method of making the connections is to use butt connectors ( I used blue 16-14 AWG ) with a crimping tool. Now make the necessary connections as per the 530t manual.

Okay, so now your motor and switch connections are done. Take off the dash fuse panel cover. Take the (+) 12v Constant, 20 Amp Fused wire from the 530t and thread it up to the fuse panel. push this into the 20 Amp 'Courtesy' fuse plug on the fuse panel. Replace fuse panel cover. Three more wires! All of them are ground. Ground Path Motor #1, Ground Path Motor #2 and Chassis Ground. Look near the hood release handle area and you will see a nut holding two factory ground wires. Loosen off this nut and put the 530t ground wires under the ends of the factory ground wires ( you'll know what I mean when you see it ). Then tighten the nut back down.

To test the system, plug the window switch harness into the socket on the switch panel.

Now the moment of truth! Turn the ignition to 'run' and try out your new toy. Praying as you do <img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" /> . Driver/Passenger windows express up/down. Very cool! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Reverse steps 1-10 and you're done!

Using these instructions and the 530t manual, you should have no problems. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Total cost: $69 + shipping (US) for the 530t and about $3 (US) for the butt connectors. I already had the crimping tool.

Johnny

that's cool ya finally figured it out. next time use a coat hanger or one of them 4 prong graby thingies from sears and you'll run them wires through the door in about 30 seconds flat without haveing to take the door boots a loose.
congrats though

<small>[ October 02, 2002, 11:52 PM: Message edited by: Johnny ]</small>

DROPTAWP

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Johnny:
<strong>that's cool ya finally figured it out. next time use a coat hanger or one of them 4 prong graby thingies from sears and you'll run them wires through the door in about 30 seconds flat without haveing to take the door boots a loose.
congrats though</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes... Very simple once I knew exatly what wires to cut.

Don't think a coat hanger would work. Possibly the 'graby thingy' would work but it may get stuck within the boot. I still think that pushing the wires through by hand is the best method. But then that is just my opinion. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Thanks on the congrats. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

slow

iTrader: (7)

thanks for the instructions.

went to a stereo shop today, and was quote $170 for the 530t.... LOL. $220 installed. (plus tax)

I think ill be buying it online for $69. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Ryan

spdracer

i just ordered mine on tuesday and am waiting for it to come in. one question thought, how did you hook it up with the alarm? does it roll up the windows with the lock feature or roll sowm with the second unlock press. just wanted to know since this is how i hope to install mine. i will update later once mine has arrived and is installed.

dustin

DROPTAWP

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by slow:
<strong>thanks for the instructions.

went to a stereo shop today, and was quote $170 for the 530t.... LOL. $220 installed. (plus tax)

I think ill be buying it online for $69. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Ryan</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">$170! OMG! A $100 more than what Auto Preservers is selling them for. I'd like some of the drugs that they are on! Did you tell them that you can get it for $69 online?

Yeah, get one from Auto Preservers and install it yourself. Very easy to do!

DROPTAWP

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by spdracer:
<strong>i just ordered mine on tuesday and am waiting for it to come in. one question thought, how did you hook it up with the alarm? does it roll up the windows with the lock feature or roll sowm with the second unlock press. just wanted to know since this is how i hope to install mine. i will update later once mine has arrived and is installed.

dustin</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I didn't connect the wires for remote up/down. Sorry.

But.....

If you decide to go that route, yeah, as far as I know, connect the orange wire from the 530t to a (-) Lock pulse. You'll want to add a relay if you don't want the windows rolling up on you if you decide to lock the doors while you're driving the car. The 530t's install manual shows you the connections for a lock relay.

For the remote windows 'down', you have to connect the red/white stripe wire on the 530t to the second chanel of the unlock button.

spdracer

thanks for the advice, i am still waiting for it, and will definately use your post when i install it. be ready i probable will have more questions.

thanks in advance
dustin

DROPTAWP

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by spdracer:
<strong>be ready i probable will have more questions.

thanks in advance
dustin</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Sure, I'll be here.

spdracer

ok here is the first of the questions. i just got mine in the mail and was looking at the instructions and comparing them to the ones that you gave. now i am confused. there are there versions of the system. by the instructions that you gave, you did not use any relays, am i right? so if that is correct then i use the type A wiring.

thanks
dustin

DROPTAWP

Dustin,

The wiring diagrams shown are: Type A and C, Type B and Systems with factory control modules. If you are putting the 530t into an F-body with the drivers side factory 'express down' feature, then you wire the 530t up as according to the latter ( systems with factory control modules ). The factory control module controls the drivers express down function. You have to connect the 530t between the window motor and the control module. The best way to make sure you are making the connection between the module and the motor is to make the connections as close to the motor as possible, just as I have pointed out in my instrucitons.

No, I didn't use any relays. The realy would be needed only if you are using your keyless entry remote to roll the windows up/down remotely. I haven't used that feature ( yet! ).

Good luck and let me know how you make out with your install.

spdracer

ok here is a progress report on my install. i just finished taking apart the door (very scary cause it might not go back on ever again), and i have run all of the wire into the door and planned out where i will hook up all of the other wires. i think that the hardest part is behind me. i had to quit because it is dark (no garage) and i got up at 330 this morning so it is past bedtime. i will try to finish tommorrow and let you know.

thanks
dustin

DROPTAWP

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by spdracer:
<strong>Ok here is a progress report on my install. i just finished taking apart the door (very scary cause it might not go back on ever again).

dustin</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Actually, the door trim panel is very easy to reinstall. It is secured by slider clips. Have a look at it, you'll see what I mean. Start off with sliding the top of the panel ( where the wheather strip is ) into position, then as you do that, make sure that the slider clips engage with the door frame and push the panel down. Piece of cake Dude!

It took me a while to take the door panel apart as I hadn't done it before. Didn't want to trash anything. Not a prob with putting it back on. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

5.3Maro

where did you splice in the module to the pass side window within the pass switch or the wires that go from driver to pass switch? also do all three switches have auto up and down thanks

heres a diagram cut light blue&tan or dark blue&brown
http://shbox.com/1/pwr_window_schematic.jpg

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

check the date dude, this thread is nearly 11 YEARS old, better off trying to send the OP a PM and see if he responds.

5.3Maro

Well wondering if maybe somebody else knew