Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

Seems my audio guy doesn't have suggestions for me on what to put in the doors. Looking for some results people have gotten with what they swapped in. NEED TO GET ORDERED! Question about if tweets work in there without anything additional.

fredmr39

Those who love them may have different standards than you. What type of system are you going for? Something just a little better than stock to get by, or will there be large improvements in the future?

What do you have done now? (I assume something because you called this guy "my audio guy"..

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

Nothing installed yet. Compiling! I have the Bazookas for the sails, Sub Thump with a Resonant Engineering SE-10", Hifonics 1600D for the sub and possibly CDT TW-25's if they will just bolt in. Right now I can't hear the tweets in the door. To be honest I don't even know if they are working but if they are they be weak LOL! The stock mids in the doors just sound muddy. Looking for SQ increase mainly with a little more pop. Right now the driver's sail is rattling! Someone has changed the hatch speakers to Infinity Kappas that have a small tweet and like a 4". I don't plan on ripping the HU out and rewiring so trying to work with what is there. Just want the most output with SQ as I can get out of the door mids.

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

I read a post that said these are one of the best to get:

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-INFINITY-KAP...QQcmdZViewItem

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

Guess everyone is sticking with the stockers

streetassasin

iTrader: (30)

I have some alpines and they are ok

pentavolvo

DO NOT get the infinitys, they have no midbass and ear piercing highs

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

I put CDT components from Kee Audio in my doors and I'm very pleased with the sound. Mind you, that was AFTER changing out the factory head unit (but still using the Monsoon amp and wiring). I don't know that you would gain much if still using the stock head unit.

SSmokinz

iTrader: (5)

I put alpine type rs in the front doors and hate em. without an amp u cant hear them at all. and if u try to turn it up they just distort. i woulda never bought them but i got such a good deal from a friend that i figured why not.

dragonrage

My Rainbow W 165 CMX woofers + Seas Neo tweets are quite nice. I want Rainbow X-line woofers though. The woofers still ring a little bit when crossed at 2kHz (and the stock crossover point on the component set with them is 3.2kHz! Argh!)

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

I did CL-E6 CDT's in several WS6's and they have a great bass response for the doors. So do the CL-6's. The E6 has a cast frame and a different cone structure. You can see them on my site. I still like to use the CDT xover for the tweeters by cutting out the stock T/A Monsoon xover. This sounded pretty good for still having a stock amp. HU was also aftermarket on a few cars and stock on a couple more.

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

I love CDT speakers but they are 4 Ohm. I was told the 2 Ohm version like Infinity will have far greater output using the stock Monsoon amp setup. I know SQ will favor the CDT's but don't know on low power. The other question I can't seem to get an answer on is when changing to the CDT tweeters if you have to make any changes other than wiring them in?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

I am running the CDT components in my doors off the stock amp and have had no problems with loss of volume. If anything, the better sensitivity of the CDT speakers has made them louder than stock. There are other factors besides impedance that contribute to the perceived volume of a speaker. Doubling the impedance causes a 3dB drop in volume (all else being equal) but most good aftermarket speakers are at least 3dB more sensitive than the stock speakers so it makes up the difference.

I did nothing else other than wire in the speakers - no crossover changes or other wiring.

dragonrage

I see you ******* on the sensitivity of the stock speakers a lot, but have you ever actually measured it? Stock speakers are usually actually pretty high in sensitivity, whereas aftermarket speakers often trade some of the sensitivity for deeper bass extension. You can't have both high sensitivity and deep bass extension. Any 92dB 1W/1m 6.5" speaker you see either lies about its sensitivity or isn't going to play very deep (and lacks Xmax). I would say most "good" 6.5" speakers have around 87-89dB 1W/1m.

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

What CDT mid's and tweeters are you running? What is the output like vs. stock for mid's and tweets? Big increase in SQ?

Hatchetman337

iTrader: (3)

What's the 1m in 1W/1m you always write?

dragonrage

1 watt, 1 meter away. Oh, I forgot to mention that a lot of the high sensitivity claims in speakers are because some manufacturers measure response "in a typical [vehicle] environment" instead of the standard anechoic chamber. Anechoic is the only true way to measure speaker sensitivity.

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

So do most go back with dedicated mids/tweets? It seems some are going with Coax's like 2-ways. Is this a better setup with a second tweet in the pod? These Polk's are high rated 2-ways:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/productDetail.do?oid=172444&WT.mc_n=4&WT.mc_t=U&cm _ven=COMPARISON%20SHOPPING&cm_cat=GOOGLE&cm_pla=DA TAFEED->PRODUCTS&cm_ite=1%20PRODUCT&cm_keycode=4

92 dB

dragonrage

Tweets in pods would be best. It's more work so some people just go the easy way and go for coax.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

In a T/A there's no reason to go with a coaxial speaker - you already have the separate mounting for components. Coaxials are often used in Camaros for convenience because the factory coaxially mounted component configuration has been hard to find (until the CDT components).

I have no specs on factory sensitivity and haven't even bothered to look at the sensitivity claims of the CDT components. From my own installation I know that using the CDT components did not reduce output volume - in fact, the new speakers seem louder (and certainly clearer). I was talking about the sensitivity in general terms to point out that speaker impedance is not the only criteria in determining speaker output.