Run in with a Lightning...... Should this have happened?
06-17-2010, 02:14 AM
#41
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Im not sure, my guess is not tho
That's exactly what I'd do if it were mine......oh wait
My 4.8 with a built 4L65 and a Yank ss3600 with just bolt-ons and my own tuning did 13.8 in the 1/4. Before I did the trans/converter the best I could muster was a 14.8 or so; this is with 3.73's as well. A converter really woke it up and made it a lot more fun to drive really, and I don't mind it a bit.
Don't forget that those Eatons really hate heat too so depending on how long he had been driving and the weather it'd probably be a bit slower. Good race nonetheless, and way to show how surprising these little motors are
Damn man thats beast, im kinda scared to take it to the track tho, because my speedometer is wayyy off switching from 20s with 275/45/20 size tires to 17s with 255/45/17 (just temporary tires dont worry lol) so my speed limiter still comes on at 100, which when calibrated is really between 85 and 90 so I dont know if itl come on at the end of the track and just sand bag me so much 
hoping to get it fixed though real soon. Trucks in the shop right now tho getting repaired from some dumbass backing into me so for now I get to drive the rental! Yay! Lol
Yea my friend drives a 99 Trans Am with an MS3 cam and Yank 4000 (if im correct on the brand) and even he says its not all that bad as he daily drives his car lol BUT nevertheless money is reeealy short as of now so cant do much 
but it will all be getting done within the next year as ill be gettin paid more 
That's exactly what I'd do if it were mine......oh wait
My 4.8 with a built 4L65 and a Yank ss3600 with just bolt-ons and my own tuning did 13.8 in the 1/4. Before I did the trans/converter the best I could muster was a 14.8 or so; this is with 3.73's as well. A converter really woke it up and made it a lot more fun to drive really, and I don't mind it a bit.
Don't forget that those Eatons really hate heat too so depending on how long he had been driving and the weather it'd probably be a bit slower. Good race nonetheless, and way to show how surprising these little motors are
hoping to get it fixed though real soon. Trucks in the shop right now tho getting repaired from some dumbass backing into me so for now I get to drive the rental! Yay! Lol but it will all be getting done within the next year as ill be gettin paid more 
06-17-2010, 02:58 AM
#42
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06-17-2010, 03:43 AM
#43
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Funny you guys are talking stalls: I just put a Phoenix Performance top of the line twin disk lockup, 3600 stall in my car 3 days ago. Got it secondhand, but 'New In Box', and no one could tell me what STR it had. Turns out it's pretty high, ie a loose converter that requires me to rev to a MINIMUM of 2,000-2,100 rpms to get it to move at all.
Talk about annoying! Ever stoplight takeoff sounds like I'm riding the wholly hell out of a M6 clutch. Can't even tell when it changes gears under normal accelleration: rpms barely move and the converter is so loose that you can't feel the shift 'hit'. Gas mileage went to ****, too: stop n go incity driving dropped from 16-18mpg to 12mpg. Drove it in the rain last night: wow talk about having to be carefull!! No more playing around in the rain, thats for sure.
It's not all gloom and doom though! The minute it gets annoying to drive around town, you simply hit the go pedal. At ANY speed. There is no more dead spots, PERIOD. Flashes to a minimum of 4000rpms when I romp on it at 20mph holding 2nd gear: At the start of my first dead spot (30-40mph) it flashes so high I initially thought that it actually downshifted to 1st gear! Go WOT from a dead stop (IF you can get traction) and be amazed at the seamless pull all the way thru the gears: there is no torque curve surge as each gear climbs through its rpm range. just linear power.
And last of all, something I never expected: better freeway mpg. I picked up a solid 2mpg cruising at my normal cruise control speed of 68mph to work. I was stunned! It ALMOST offsets the city driving loss of mpg in my overall DD driving.
Talk about annoying! Ever stoplight takeoff sounds like I'm riding the wholly hell out of a M6 clutch. Can't even tell when it changes gears under normal accelleration: rpms barely move and the converter is so loose that you can't feel the shift 'hit'. Gas mileage went to ****, too: stop n go incity driving dropped from 16-18mpg to 12mpg. Drove it in the rain last night: wow talk about having to be carefull!! No more playing around in the rain, thats for sure.
It's not all gloom and doom though! The minute it gets annoying to drive around town, you simply hit the go pedal. At ANY speed. There is no more dead spots, PERIOD. Flashes to a minimum of 4000rpms when I romp on it at 20mph holding 2nd gear: At the start of my first dead spot (30-40mph) it flashes so high I initially thought that it actually downshifted to 1st gear! Go WOT from a dead stop (IF you can get traction) and be amazed at the seamless pull all the way thru the gears: there is no torque curve surge as each gear climbs through its rpm range. just linear power.
And last of all, something I never expected: better freeway mpg. I picked up a solid 2mpg cruising at my normal cruise control speed of 68mph to work. I was stunned! It ALMOST offsets the city driving loss of mpg in my overall DD driving.
06-17-2010, 04:32 AM
#44
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Funny you guys are talking stalls: I just put a Phoenix Performance top of the line twin disk lockup, 3600 stall in my car 3 days ago. Got it secondhand, but 'New In Box', and no one could tell me what STR it had. Turns out it's pretty high, ie a loose converter that requires me to rev to a MINIMUM of 2,000-2,100 rpms to get it to move at all.
Talk about annoying! Ever stoplight takeoff sounds like I'm riding the wholly hell out of a M6 clutch. Can't even tell when it changes gears under normal accelleration: rpms barely move and the converter is so loose that you can't feel the shift 'hit'. Gas mileage went to ****, too: stop n go incity driving dropped from 16-18mpg to 12mpg. Drove it in the rain last night: wow talk about having to be carefull!! No more playing around in the rain, thats for sure.
It's not all gloom and doom though! The minute it gets annoying to drive around town, you simply hit the go pedal. At ANY speed. There is no more dead spots, PERIOD. Flashes to a minimum of 4000rpms when I romp on it at 20mph holding 2nd gear: At the start of my first dead spot (30-40mph) it flashes so high I initially thought that it actually downshifted to 1st gear! Go WOT from a dead stop (IF you can get traction) and be amazed at the seamless pull all the way thru the gears: there is no torque curve surge as each gear climbs through its rpm range. just linear power.
And last of all, something I never expected: better freeway mpg. I picked up a solid 2mpg cruising at my normal cruise control speed of 68mph to work. I was stunned! It ALMOST offsets the city driving loss of mpg in my overall DD driving.
Talk about annoying! Ever stoplight takeoff sounds like I'm riding the wholly hell out of a M6 clutch. Can't even tell when it changes gears under normal accelleration: rpms barely move and the converter is so loose that you can't feel the shift 'hit'. Gas mileage went to ****, too: stop n go incity driving dropped from 16-18mpg to 12mpg. Drove it in the rain last night: wow talk about having to be carefull!! No more playing around in the rain, thats for sure.
It's not all gloom and doom though! The minute it gets annoying to drive around town, you simply hit the go pedal. At ANY speed. There is no more dead spots, PERIOD. Flashes to a minimum of 4000rpms when I romp on it at 20mph holding 2nd gear: At the start of my first dead spot (30-40mph) it flashes so high I initially thought that it actually downshifted to 1st gear! Go WOT from a dead stop (IF you can get traction) and be amazed at the seamless pull all the way thru the gears: there is no torque curve surge as each gear climbs through its rpm range. just linear power.
And last of all, something I never expected: better freeway mpg. I picked up a solid 2mpg cruising at my normal cruise control speed of 68mph to work. I was stunned! It ALMOST offsets the city driving loss of mpg in my overall DD driving.
So its settled
its my next modAny of you guys know the best/cheapest one to get? How much is it to get installed also?
Also how high of a stall should I get?
Last edited by Buford17; 06-17-2010 at 04:49 AM.
06-17-2010, 08:43 AM
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Funny you guys are talking stalls: I just put a Phoenix Performance top of the line twin disk lockup, 3600 stall in my car 3 days ago. Got it secondhand, but 'New In Box', and no one could tell me what STR it had. Turns out it's pretty high, ie a loose converter that requires me to rev to a MINIMUM of 2,000-2,100 rpms to get it to move at all.
From Yank:
The stall torque ratio is the amount of engine torque that the torque converter can multiply at a particular rpm level. By definition, stall torque ratio is when the turbine is at 0 RPMs and the converter is at maximum designed stall. This will produce a positive push on the turbine to increase the torque to the input shaft of the transmission, multiplied by the designed stall torque ratio of the torque converter. For example, a stall torque ratio of 2.0 would multiply 200 lb. ft. of engine torque to 400 lb. ft. of torque at the transmission input-shaft. The misconception of stall torque ratio is that more must be better. This is not always the case. High stall torque ratio applications, typically are for industrial equipment or engines with limited low rpm engine torque. With high stall toque ratio converters, there are important trade-offs. What you take at one end you give up on the other. Typically, a torque converter with a very high stall torque ratio, such as 2.0-2.5, will be much less efficient above its rated stall speed. There is a sacrifice in higher rpm efficiency to achieve high stall torque ratios. That lower efficiency translates into less horsepower transmitted to the tires over an RPM range. The problem with a high stall torque ratio converter is that it is only high while the car is not moving. Maximum stall torque ratio occurs at wide open throttle with no rotation of the transmission input shaft. As the input shaft starts to rotate with vehicle forward movement, the stall torque ratio will become non-existent much sooner than a converter of the same stall, with a lower stall torque ratio.
The stall torque ratio is the amount of engine torque that the torque converter can multiply at a particular rpm level. By definition, stall torque ratio is when the turbine is at 0 RPMs and the converter is at maximum designed stall. This will produce a positive push on the turbine to increase the torque to the input shaft of the transmission, multiplied by the designed stall torque ratio of the torque converter. For example, a stall torque ratio of 2.0 would multiply 200 lb. ft. of engine torque to 400 lb. ft. of torque at the transmission input-shaft. The misconception of stall torque ratio is that more must be better. This is not always the case. High stall torque ratio applications, typically are for industrial equipment or engines with limited low rpm engine torque. With high stall toque ratio converters, there are important trade-offs. What you take at one end you give up on the other. Typically, a torque converter with a very high stall torque ratio, such as 2.0-2.5, will be much less efficient above its rated stall speed. There is a sacrifice in higher rpm efficiency to achieve high stall torque ratios. That lower efficiency translates into less horsepower transmitted to the tires over an RPM range. The problem with a high stall torque ratio converter is that it is only high while the car is not moving. Maximum stall torque ratio occurs at wide open throttle with no rotation of the transmission input shaft. As the input shaft starts to rotate with vehicle forward movement, the stall torque ratio will become non-existent much sooner than a converter of the same stall, with a lower stall torque ratio.
06-17-2010, 09:53 AM
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Those SS wheels are going to kill it, they are heavy. I'd bet that with a good tune it'd be a low 15/high 14 though. Put some stock 16's and some stickies on the back and you'd be at low 14's or so. When I ran on street tires I actually ran better with the spare and tailgate still on. Otherwise my 60' times were in the 2.6-3.1 range
06-17-2010, 10:09 AM
#47
Staging Lane
Doesn't sound like you know what STR (Stall Torque Ratio) is... STR is the torque multiplier not the stall speed. A higher STR means more torque multiplication not a higher stall speed/RPM.
Although your converter sounds a bit like ours, which is a 4k stall. My guess is you have a 4k-4.5k stall TC, just based on your description.
Although your converter sounds a bit like ours, which is a 4k stall. My guess is you have a 4k-4.5k stall TC, just based on your description.
Try this link: this guy taught me everything I know about converters.
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthr...&highlight=STR
Actually stall and STR are different: A 3600 stall, 1.75 STR converter would be considered a tight converter: very streetable with minimal rwhp loss and gradual force buildup to it's so-called "stall" and for quite a bit after that. It would most likely slip up to 4500-4800rpms giving you extra power.
A 3.0 STR 3600 stall (which I believe is what I have) is considered a loose converter designed for racing, where the sudden and massive hit it delivers right at its "stall" point will launch you off the line. But it's inefficient and you are definitely sacrificing mph for those precious tenths. It's very obvious when a converter is a high STR converter: the car will not move until a higher rpm is achieved than compared to a same stall low STR converter.
I didnt want a high str converter as I will be 95% daily driving my car with limited track or street racing use. Is what it is, and I'll live with it.
06-17-2010, 10:33 AM
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Try this link: this guy taught me everything I know about converters.
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthr...&highlight=STR
Actually stall and STR are different: A 3600 stall, 1.75 STR converter would be considered a tight converter: very streetable with minimal rwhp loss and gradual force buildup to it's so-called "stall" and for quite a bit after that. It would most likely slip up to 4500-4800rpms giving you extra power.
A 3.0 STR 3600 stall (which I believe is what I have) is considered a loose converter designed for racing, where the sudden and massive hit it delivers right at its "stall" point will launch you off the line. But it's inefficient and you are definitely sacrificing mph for those precious tenths. It's very obvious when a converter is a high STR converter: the car will not move until a higher rpm is achieved than compared to a same stall low STR converter.
I didnt want a high str converter as I will be 95% daily driving my car with limited track or street racing use. Is what it is, and I'll live with it.
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthr...&highlight=STR
Actually stall and STR are different: A 3600 stall, 1.75 STR converter would be considered a tight converter: very streetable with minimal rwhp loss and gradual force buildup to it's so-called "stall" and for quite a bit after that. It would most likely slip up to 4500-4800rpms giving you extra power.
A 3.0 STR 3600 stall (which I believe is what I have) is considered a loose converter designed for racing, where the sudden and massive hit it delivers right at its "stall" point will launch you off the line. But it's inefficient and you are definitely sacrificing mph for those precious tenths. It's very obvious when a converter is a high STR converter: the car will not move until a higher rpm is achieved than compared to a same stall low STR converter.
I didnt want a high str converter as I will be 95% daily driving my car with limited track or street racing use. Is what it is, and I'll live with it.
EDIT: BTW that is a good link with some useful information...
Last edited by Azrael; 06-17-2010 at 10:38 AM.
06-17-2010, 11:10 AM
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Funny you guys are talking stalls: I just put a Phoenix Performance top of the line twin disk lockup, 3600 stall in my car 3 days ago. Got it secondhand, but 'New In Box', and no one could tell me what STR it had. Turns out it's pretty high, ie a loose converter that requires me to rev to a MINIMUM of 2,000-2,100 rpms to get it to move at all.
Talk about annoying! Ever stoplight takeoff sounds like I'm riding the wholly hell out of a M6 clutch. Can't even tell when it changes gears under normal accelleration: rpms barely move and the converter is so loose that you can't feel the shift 'hit'. Gas mileage went to ****, too: stop n go incity driving dropped from 16-18mpg to 12mpg. Drove it in the rain last night: wow talk about having to be carefull!! No more playing around in the rain, thats for sure.
It's not all gloom and doom though! The minute it gets annoying to drive around town, you simply hit the go pedal. At ANY speed. There is no more dead spots, PERIOD. Flashes to a minimum of 4000rpms when I romp on it at 20mph holding 2nd gear: At the start of my first dead spot (30-40mph) it flashes so high I initially thought that it actually downshifted to 1st gear! Go WOT from a dead stop (IF you can get traction) and be amazed at the seamless pull all the way thru the gears: there is no torque curve surge as each gear climbs through its rpm range. just linear power.
And last of all, something I never expected: better freeway mpg. I picked up a solid 2mpg cruising at my normal cruise control speed of 68mph to work. I was stunned! It ALMOST offsets the city driving loss of mpg in my overall DD driving.
Talk about annoying! Ever stoplight takeoff sounds like I'm riding the wholly hell out of a M6 clutch. Can't even tell when it changes gears under normal accelleration: rpms barely move and the converter is so loose that you can't feel the shift 'hit'. Gas mileage went to ****, too: stop n go incity driving dropped from 16-18mpg to 12mpg. Drove it in the rain last night: wow talk about having to be carefull!! No more playing around in the rain, thats for sure.
It's not all gloom and doom though! The minute it gets annoying to drive around town, you simply hit the go pedal. At ANY speed. There is no more dead spots, PERIOD. Flashes to a minimum of 4000rpms when I romp on it at 20mph holding 2nd gear: At the start of my first dead spot (30-40mph) it flashes so high I initially thought that it actually downshifted to 1st gear! Go WOT from a dead stop (IF you can get traction) and be amazed at the seamless pull all the way thru the gears: there is no torque curve surge as each gear climbs through its rpm range. just linear power.
And last of all, something I never expected: better freeway mpg. I picked up a solid 2mpg cruising at my normal cruise control speed of 68mph to work. I was stunned! It ALMOST offsets the city driving loss of mpg in my overall DD driving.
