so yea,its time for a stall
07-25-2010, 01:43 PM
#21
OP, when your going to do any roll racing in your A4. Try and keep the car below 30mph, so it'll downshift back into 1st or right at 60mph. It'll downshift itself there again, anything between 30 & 60mph, is a dead spot in your auto.
I always hated that problem, so now i try and get the roll races below 30mph if i can. I hardly ever end up with highway rolls but if i did. I would go for 60mph.
I always hated that problem, so now i try and get the roll races below 30mph if i can. I hardly ever end up with highway rolls but if i did. I would go for 60mph.
07-25-2010, 01:51 PM
#22
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^ I have 3.23's, i believe all SS/Ws6 models came with the 3.23's. I got beat by a stock M6 Ws6 from a roll really bad about 2yrs ago (had longtubes w/stock exhaust at the time), all because we started at 35mph. The car never downshifted, which at the time. I didnt know my deadspots. Since then is when i realized, i need to keep it 30mph or less for it to downshift itself. Unless i manually shift it, but i dont like doing that. I would rather have an M6 to manually shift instead.
07-25-2010, 04:34 PM
#23
well my car in vegas...in the hott ran 14.2..before tune, now with my full tune it runs 12.94, in CA where its better wheather and much cooler!! and i mean i have an auto, when i race stick cars from a roll i always know they are gonna pull harder on the jump! depending on the car. So thats why i try and keep all my races started from a dead stop. its a bit more even...maybe a shift kit and LTs with a cam can help?idk...
07-25-2010, 05:36 PM
#24
I don't think autos suck, or people that prefer them, just the particular one the General decided to grace our cars with. Do you think the 4L60E is a great example of an automatic transmission? Really? It can be made to work well with stall, performance rebuild, external cooler, tuning, and a shift kit. Thats some $$$ right there. There are much better functioning transmissions straight from the factory, like the 6L80E already mentioned in here. Like it or not, it was a carry over from an earlier time, and not well suited for these cars. Companies like Performabuilt and FLT make great transmissions but look at all the work that has to go into it.
Spending the money to get my auto to drive as well as a stick and be reliable for the long term would have cost me at least twice what I paid for the entire 6 speed swap, I got a good deal on it, so I decided to go for it. And personally, I would just rather drive a manual transmission.
07-25-2010, 05:47 PM
#25
Staging Lane
The 4L65E is a much much better transmission than the 4L60E in the Fbodies. Stronger, too. But it was what "allowed" me to reconcile having a auto when I preferred a stick: the trans shfting algorythms were exactly the way it should be, never hunting, always seeming to do what I want before I even realize I wanted it to. The only glitch is the dead spots where it COULD HAVE downshifted but doesnt. Don't know if it's a line pressure issue, or GM didnt want violent downshifts that upshift a second later. << I want that, but most average drivers probably wouldnt.
As far as picking up mph with a high stall converter, that's BS. Something else was kicking in like a new tune or better weather: or maybe you had crappy 2.73 gears and your upshifts threw you so far away from your power peak that the stall actually helped? Never heard of it, but it's possible I guess. ?? maybe. ??
As far as picking up mph with a high stall converter, that's BS. Something else was kicking in like a new tune or better weather: or maybe you had crappy 2.73 gears and your upshifts threw you so far away from your power peak that the stall actually helped? Never heard of it, but it's possible I guess. ?? maybe. ??
07-26-2010, 09:28 AM
#26
only change was new transmission with the stall, old transmission was fine and still had perfectly firm shifts, just high miles and I decided it would be cheaper to rebuild it before it destroyed itself
weather was worse, went from running in ~2000-2200 DA to 2600+ DA
all the other mods in my sig were present, I had also posted a thread asking about it before and there were other people who replied to gaining mph after a stall
weather was worse, went from running in ~2000-2200 DA to 2600+ DA
all the other mods in my sig were present, I had also posted a thread asking about it before and there were other people who replied to gaining mph after a stall
07-26-2010, 04:53 PM
#28
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No it wasn't. When I say functioning correctly, I mean the trans as a whole, including the computer that controls it. My car has never done what you described, nor any other auto car/truck I have ever rode in in my entire life. What is so hard to understand about the fact that your **** was fucked up, which is why you lost the races as you clearly stated? Had you fixed the problem, you would have never made your initial post in the first place.
07-26-2010, 05:23 PM
#30
Staging Lane
Just get one and stop yer bitchin'! I would recommend at least a 3400 if you are after some dead spot help. 3800+ if you SERIOUSLY want to eliminate your dead spots. Watch the For Sale area, both on here and other high-product-turnover sites like LS1GTO, etc. and you will find a top of the line used or NIB converter for $300-$400.
07-26-2010, 07:46 PM
#33
No it wasn't. When I say functioning correctly, I mean the trans as a whole, including the computer that controls it. My car has never done what you described, nor any other auto car/truck I have ever rode in in my entire life. What is so hard to understand about the fact that your **** was fucked up, which is why you lost the races as you clearly stated? Had you fixed the problem, you would have never made your initial post in the first place.
07-26-2010, 08:33 PM
#34
Staging Lane
lack of comprehension fellas: He is implying that you are saying that your car does not downshift AT ALL when you get on it. What you guys are referring to (but never clarified) was the spot in the rpm band where the computer decides not to downshift because it would put the car too close to its redline. IE "dead spot" where it will not downshift, but in every car guys opinion, SHOULD. It's no doubt done to keep the soccer moms and old people from scaring the crap out of themselves when it downshifts to 5200+rpms when they go WOT for a second. Typical corporate lawyer induced nanny central crap.
My car will not go to 1st gear once I'm past 30mph- even though 1st gear will go at least to 50mph. 2nd gear refuses to downshift past 70mph- even though 2nd will go to almost 90mph.
My car will not go to 1st gear once I'm past 30mph- even though 1st gear will go at least to 50mph. 2nd gear refuses to downshift past 70mph- even though 2nd will go to almost 90mph.
07-26-2010, 09:27 PM
#36
Staging Lane
IF you have 3.23 ears, 3.73 isn't that big a jump. Though if you're stalled with a 3600 converter and on even high performance summer only tires it's not really necessary: you will just spin your tires and not be able to use the extra torque until higher rpms, where it will slow you down a bit. Be warned on the stall: Read what I went through when I put mine in- and I've had a 2800 stall before, and driven bigger stalls than mine. << it's different if it's YOUR car!
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371873
Not saying don't do it: I've gotten used to it and it's not that big a deal anymore as you notice in my later updates in that thread.
But the sloppy feel of the tranny is annoying! My trans shifted hard and was nearly as "firm" or "connected" feeling as a stick shift. Not anymore, it's a true slushbox now.
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371873
Not saying don't do it: I've gotten used to it and it's not that big a deal anymore as you notice in my later updates in that thread.
But the sloppy feel of the tranny is annoying! My trans shifted hard and was nearly as "firm" or "connected" feeling as a stick shift. Not anymore, it's a true slushbox now.
07-26-2010, 09:54 PM
#37
lack of comprehension fellas: He is implying that you are saying that your car does not downshift AT ALL when you get on it. What you guys are referring to (but never clarified) was the spot in the rpm band where the computer decides not to downshift because it would put the car too close to its redline. IE "dead spot" where it will not downshift, but in every car guys opinion, SHOULD. It's no doubt done to keep the soccer moms and old people from scaring the crap out of themselves when it downshifts to 5200+rpms when they go WOT for a second. Typical corporate lawyer induced nanny central crap.
My car will not go to 1st gear once I'm past 30mph- even though 1st gear will go at least to 50mph. 2nd gear refuses to downshift past 70mph- even though 2nd will go to almost 90mph.
My car will not go to 1st gear once I'm past 30mph- even though 1st gear will go at least to 50mph. 2nd gear refuses to downshift past 70mph- even though 2nd will go to almost 90mph.
07-26-2010, 10:56 PM
#38
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Funny, all 3 of my automatic LS1's did the same thing. I'm pretty sure they call it the dead spot? Between 30-ish and 60? You know, the one everybody who has one of these cars seem to bitch about, and the whole reason the guy started the thread? Not to mention my original post in this thread was simply stating that the dead spot was one of the reasons I swapped, and somehow you took it as a personal insult to you and your almighty automatic.
07-27-2010, 01:30 AM
#39
This is what you said....and I feel dumb for repeating it again:
40 mph is the bottom of second gear. If your **** is staying in third when you punch it at 40 mph something is wrong. Maybe you just have trouble explaining exactly what the hell it is you are trying to say
40 mph is the bottom of second gear. If your **** is staying in third when you punch it at 40 mph something is wrong. Maybe you just have trouble explaining exactly what the hell it is you are trying to say