05 CTS-V vs 08 G8 GT
01-28-2011, 06:40 PM
#21
Knowing is 1/2 the battle...probably why I seem to have a hard time winning the battle.
Honestly I have no idea. I drive it to have fun, so I'm sure I get terrible mileage.
A tune is first up on my list of planned mods because I always hear great things about tuned G8's 
As for the gearing, I wasn't saying that it hurts the performance, just causes lower dyno numbers than if there was a 1:1 ratio.
As for the gearing, I wasn't saying that it hurts the performance, just causes lower dyno numbers than if there was a 1:1 ratio.
01-31-2011, 05:52 PM
#22
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On average combined i get 18-19mpg City/Highway, 24-26mpg Highway only.
No DOD as well cause the 4 cyl sound is aweful once you opened up the exhaust.
Add 10% to that if you keep the DOD, and assuming your drive is Highway only keeping a steady 70-72mph which is where the verter is fully locked while you are in Normal or Sport mode. the trans have different maps depending on the mod you run, but you won't be able to tell the difference with a stock calibration. on a tuned A6, you can have pretty much the stock "feeling" when in Normal mode, and when in Sport, you can have more pressure for the shifts, and faster shift times per gear plus increased rpm shift points, meaning in Normal you can have the thing shifting at around 5900rpm, and in sport she can shift faster plus your shift point rpm can be bumped to 6200rpm. Then you have Manual mode that would hold gears for you when you do roll races and what not, she won't downshift in Sport mode unless you're about to go to a stop, nor she would upshift automatically for you, so you're one moving the shifter up and down to upshift/downshift. quite the trans compared to the 4l80e..
Granted, you need a tune to enjoy most of the features the trans offer. The factory did calibrate the thing as if the car was going to be driven by a lot of retired people or something
, and while a handheld tuner device helps, a full TCM tune along with a full PCM tune would be a lot, and by far, way better.... Last edited by BlueGoat06; 01-31-2011 at 06:00 PM.
01-31-2011, 06:08 PM
#23
Add 10% to that if you keep the DOD, and assuming your drive is Highway only keeping a steady 70-72mph which is where the verter is fully locked while you are in Normal or Sport mode. the trans have different maps depending on the mod you run, but you won't be able to tell the difference with a stock calibration. on a tuned A6, you can have pretty much the stock "feeling" when in Normal mode, and when in Sport, you can have more pressure for the shifts, and faster shift times per gear plus increased rpm shift points, meaning in Normal you can have the thing shifting at around 5900rpm, and in sport she can shift faster plus your shift point rpm can be bumped to 6200rpm. Then you have Manual mode that would hold gears for you when you do roll races and what not, she won't downshift in Sport mode unless you're about to go to a stop, nor she would upshift automatically for you, so you're one moving the shifter up and down to upshift/downshift. quite the trans compared to the 4l80e..
I know that currently (stock tune) from a roll I downshift it in manual mode and then click it over into drive after I go WOT.
02-01-2011, 01:32 AM
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02-01-2011, 08:22 AM
#27
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As good as the G8 is, I have to say the user interface of the 6A is a real PITA. The Yeti and I raced on several different times the 5A in the SRT-8 was far easier to use.
02-01-2011, 02:58 PM
#28
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It's pretty easy once you get used to it.
From a roll, slap the shifter all the way to the right, and she goes to Sport mode.
Then pull down or push up the shifter for Manual mode, down would downshift and hold the gear, up would upshift an hold the gear.
As soon as the Roll is started, move shifter back to the left for Normal mode (in my case she would have the stock rpm shift point) or move shifter back to the right for Sport mode (6200-6300rpm shift points). this is where i think you see it easier in your car.
Lots of people think Manual is faster and do the manu crap shifting. in the G8's the factory allows you to hit the rev limiter while in manual for any gear, she would downshift automatically when your coming to a stop and you're in Manual (up to 2nd gear tops or M2 in the dashboard), but the upshifts are done manually, and many would hit the rev limiter which by factory is just 6100rpm. (the trans is really sloppy in stock trim so it's very easy to miscalculate that manu shift point to get the right shift rpm). i've upped the rev limiter to 6500rpm but i do the shifting at 6200-6300 (Sport only). factory does it at 5800-5900rpm (Normal and Sport)
Once its tuned, Sport does the upshift right where it should be done, and pretty much where you told the PCM to do the shift.
Trans tune alone is worth at least .2-.3 sec out of this car compared to stock, .4 sec if you really like to run without TM at all. i'm right in the middle, still have TM, but just enough of it to have a happy trans, without trashing the tires in every shift.
The rest is Engine tuning and mods.
Biggest restrictions in our cars: stock airbox, stock cats (biggest joke if you look at the inlet/outlet diameter, it looks like 1.5 or 1.75" diameter), and two stupid little pipes we have in between resonators (the pipe is 1.75" in diameter), GM sure did everything in their power to keep this cars quite, mainly because of the DOD crap, good thing DOD can be disable via tuning or removed physically if you want a Non DOD camshaft
From a roll, slap the shifter all the way to the right, and she goes to Sport mode.
Then pull down or push up the shifter for Manual mode, down would downshift and hold the gear, up would upshift an hold the gear.
As soon as the Roll is started, move shifter back to the left for Normal mode (in my case she would have the stock rpm shift point) or move shifter back to the right for Sport mode (6200-6300rpm shift points). this is where i think you see it easier in your car.
Lots of people think Manual is faster and do the manu crap shifting. in the G8's the factory allows you to hit the rev limiter while in manual for any gear, she would downshift automatically when your coming to a stop and you're in Manual (up to 2nd gear tops or M2 in the dashboard), but the upshifts are done manually, and many would hit the rev limiter which by factory is just 6100rpm. (the trans is really sloppy in stock trim so it's very easy to miscalculate that manu shift point to get the right shift rpm). i've upped the rev limiter to 6500rpm but i do the shifting at 6200-6300 (Sport only). factory does it at 5800-5900rpm (Normal and Sport)
Once its tuned, Sport does the upshift right where it should be done, and pretty much where you told the PCM to do the shift.
Trans tune alone is worth at least .2-.3 sec out of this car compared to stock, .4 sec if you really like to run without TM at all. i'm right in the middle, still have TM, but just enough of it to have a happy trans, without trashing the tires in every shift.
The rest is Engine tuning and mods.
Biggest restrictions in our cars: stock airbox, stock cats (biggest joke if you look at the inlet/outlet diameter, it looks like 1.5 or 1.75" diameter), and two stupid little pipes we have in between resonators (the pipe is 1.75" in diameter), GM sure did everything in their power to keep this cars quite, mainly because of the DOD crap, good thing DOD can be disable via tuning or removed physically if you want a Non DOD camshaft
Last edited by BlueGoat06; 02-01-2011 at 03:14 PM.
02-01-2011, 03:04 PM
#29
TECH Enthusiast
02-01-2011, 03:08 PM
#30
TECH Enthusiast
It's pretty easy once you get used to it.
From a roll, slap the shifter all the way to the right, and she goes to Sport mode.
Then pull down or push up the shifter for Manual mode, down would downshift and hold the gear, up would upshift an hold the gear.
As soon as the Roll is started, move shifter back to the left for Normal mode (in my case she would have the stock rpm shift point) or move shifter back to the right for Sport mode (6200rpm shift points). this is where i think you see it easier in your car.
Lots of people think Manual is faster and do the manu crap shifting. in the G8's the factory allows you to hit the rev limiter while in manual for any gear, she would downshift automatically when your coming to a stop and you're in Manual (up to 2nd gear tops or M2 in the dashboard), but the upshifts are done manually, and many would hit the rev limiter which by factory is just 6100rpm. (the trans is really sloppy in stock trim so it's very easy to miscalculate that manu shift point to get the right shift rpm).
Once its tuned, Sport does the upshift right where it should be done, and pretty much where you told the PCM to do the shift.
Trans tune alone is worth at least .2-.3 sec out of this car compared to stock, .4 sec if you really like to run without TM at all. i'm right in the middle, still have TM, but just enough of it to have a happy trans, without trashing the tires in every shift.
The rest is Engine tuning and mods.
Biggest restrictions in our cars: stock airbox, stock cats (biggest joke if you look at the inlet/outlet diameter, it looks like 1.5 or 1.75" diameter), and two stupid little pipes we have in between resonators (the pipe is 1.75" in diameter), GM sure did everything in their power to keep this cars quite (Mainly because of the DOD crap, good thing DOD can be disable via tuning)
From a roll, slap the shifter all the way to the right, and she goes to Sport mode.
Then pull down or push up the shifter for Manual mode, down would downshift and hold the gear, up would upshift an hold the gear.
As soon as the Roll is started, move shifter back to the left for Normal mode (in my case she would have the stock rpm shift point) or move shifter back to the right for Sport mode (6200rpm shift points). this is where i think you see it easier in your car.
Lots of people think Manual is faster and do the manu crap shifting. in the G8's the factory allows you to hit the rev limiter while in manual for any gear, she would downshift automatically when your coming to a stop and you're in Manual (up to 2nd gear tops or M2 in the dashboard), but the upshifts are done manually, and many would hit the rev limiter which by factory is just 6100rpm. (the trans is really sloppy in stock trim so it's very easy to miscalculate that manu shift point to get the right shift rpm).
Once its tuned, Sport does the upshift right where it should be done, and pretty much where you told the PCM to do the shift.
Trans tune alone is worth at least .2-.3 sec out of this car compared to stock, .4 sec if you really like to run without TM at all. i'm right in the middle, still have TM, but just enough of it to have a happy trans, without trashing the tires in every shift.
The rest is Engine tuning and mods.
Biggest restrictions in our cars: stock airbox, stock cats (biggest joke if you look at the inlet/outlet diameter, it looks like 1.5 or 1.75" diameter), and two stupid little pipes we have in between resonators (the pipe is 1.75" in diameter), GM sure did everything in their power to keep this cars quite (Mainly because of the DOD crap, good thing DOD can be disable via tuning)
02-01-2011, 05:10 PM
#31
Isn't that the truth, my car sounds like a 6 cylinder. I'm debating whether I want to buy axle-back exhaust or just weld in straight pipes instead of the resonators for now.
Very true, I don't know how many roll races I lost due to the downshift time when I got my first LT1. Even a car that's a few mph slower will walk out and you won't be able to gain it back. Mild bolt-on 94-96 GT's use to give me fits on the highway.
thats the trick isnt it. most think roll racing autos doesnt work. on a manual shifting auto, matching the current gear to speed, then putting it in AUTO and letting the pcm shift it after that works well. i do it in my A4 turbo car. i NEVER hit it in drive. the downshift would kill the run.
02-01-2011, 05:28 PM
#32
Isn't that the truth, my car sounds like a 6 cylinder. I'm debating whether I want to buy axle-back exhaust or just weld in straight pipes instead of the resonators for now.
Very true, I don't know how many roll races I lost due to the downshift time when I got my first LT1. Even a car that's a few mph slower will walk out and you won't be able to gain it back. Mild bolt-on 94-96 GT's use to give me fits on the highway.
Very true, I don't know how many roll races I lost due to the downshift time when I got my first LT1. Even a car that's a few mph slower will walk out and you won't be able to gain it back. Mild bolt-on 94-96 GT's use to give me fits on the highway.
Oh, and I saw keep it quiet for the sleeper effect.
CAI, tune and a rape switch. 
02-01-2011, 07:59 PM
#34
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thats the trick isnt it. most think roll racing autos doesnt work. on a manual shifting auto, matching the current gear to speed, then putting it in AUTO and letting the pcm shift it after that works well. i do it in my A4 turbo car. i NEVER hit it in drive. the downshift would kill the run.
02-01-2011, 09:07 PM
#35
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I think GM did it the way they did to give people the ability to mimic the feel of a manual trans, The trans won't upshift unless you tell it too in Manual only, the trans would rev match gears on downshifts, beatiful thing to hear once you've opened up the exhaust considering it's a Auto. for WOT rolls, once it's in Sport and going at high rpm, it would time and execute big downshifts for you holding the right gear at the right RPM so the trans won't have to downshift if you were doing a WOT, let off, and resumed the WOT run, you'll be surprised how the thing can handle mountain driving or circuit racing when left in sport. that's why i said, i don't really use Manual mode too much. Of course the rev matching feature it's not popo smart though, and sometimes that feature would actually give you the chills if you were doing "spirited" driving at the wrong time
