ytownls1

ss is stock, my car now has magnaflow exhaust just added it about month ago.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUDQdzD7tQo

LS1rob00

iTrader: (9)

Nice run. Did the SS have a passenger? I'm suprised you started coming back at the end. But I'm guessing it's the weight difference with him having a vert.

ytownls1

yea we both had a passenger. both me my passenger and the ss driver and pass weigh the same (maybe 10-15pounds difference)

I think he won because the gear difference...my 323 vs his 343?

i backed off because i still have t rated tires and we were going 130-135

bestlude

iTrader: (4)

sweet video

mateols1ss

iTrader: (1)

Good runs. The weight diff isn't that much. A vert is less than 100 pounds heavier than an a4 t top car if the vert is an m6. I could be wrong though. Good vid too!

ytownls1

yes the ss is a m6

CoolAid

It was more the; your A4 vs his M6. You did good in the vid but lighter non-verts wont be as forgiving to you. You have a severe gear disadvantage at a 40 roll starting off at the bottom of lame 1.63:1 2nd, especially stock with no help from a stall. You'll be there all the way till 80-ish (depending on mods, tire size...etc) when you go 1:1. Meanwhile, the M6 can grab a little bit of 2.66, then 1.78, then 1.30, then finally 1:1 up near 95-100ish. 04+ CTS-Vs, GTOs and Camaros have even steeper 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 1:1 gear sets that will be even less forgiving to you.

Get some decent tires and work on the dig. The 20 roll is your friend too. You'll have half of your much needed 3.06:1 first gear, some help, albeit diminishing help, from your converters torque multiplication and full WOT momentum into your 2nd gear. You can tell whiney M6 guys who cant launch that at 20 everyone is fully engaged and rolling and no clutch launch needed. If someone spins thats their problem. Learn to pedal the car to a hook. Stay out of D in street digs and 20 rolls, you want to manually shift 1-2. Reason? If you leave it in D, spin and try to back out of the throttle to pedal it to a hook the ECM will dump you into 2nd gear and you'll be stuck @ 20mph in 1.63:1 second watching the other guys tail lights disappear. After your firmly into 2nd gear hooked you can slide up to D. Not 3, D. 3 engages overrun clutches for engine braking assistance and takes precious trans fluid away from more important things. I always say if you need your trans/overrun clutches to help slow you down, its time for new brakes.

Go practice launching and 20 rolls and hit the SS back up for a run and post a vid.

If you already knew all this stuff I posted then write me off. Bored and figured I would lay down some text

ytownls1

actually im taking notes and doing research because i have NO idea what all the number ratios mean...

i do know hopefully by july at latest ill have lt headers tsp cat-back and 373 gears, and a tune.

Im also saving for z rated tires for front and get some MT drag tires for back...i have 1 extra set of rims t-rated ill just swap on when it rains

CoolAid

Ratios are torque multipliers. Numerically higher gear ratios either in the transmission or rear end will multiply power by a greater amount.

A higher stall torque converter should be your target mod. The torque converter multiples torque over distance and is the true key to why automatics own the 1/4 mile. Not because of easier launching and fast shifts........that **** is a just a bonus.

Here is a post about converters and their Stall to Torque ratio (STR).

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=349786

Put simply a lower STR will multiply torque over a longer distance. A higher number will multiply torque more but over a shorter distance. Average ET drop from adding a stall to mild LSx car is .5-.7 tenths. An aftermarket trans cooler should be considered mandatory when doing a stall BTW. Lots of info in the Automatic section on this board.

Good luck with your build and go run some digs.

WSsick

iTrader: (13)

I just learned something in SR&K. wtf

BoricuaHec01

Looking into getting a 3600 stall when I get headers done.

ytownls1

i thought that if you manually shift an automatic its bad for the trans?


ok well i raced the ss again....

went 20 roll 1 2 d {d}

both races we backed off about 130-140

first race i jumped maybe a small tad...we were neck and neck then he missed 4th.

second race, he just stayed car to half car infront of me, videos will be posted later or tomorrow after work.

Randal McSandal

iTrader: (3)

Damn those gears were long! Nice run though

projectX

iTrader: (51)

good run close race

projectX

iTrader: (51)

This should be a rule. No stall unless you have tranny cooler and DR's. lol

ytownls1

i wish things for cars didnt cost so much. i need zr tires, lt headers, tsp catback, lid, ls6 intake, 373.....any1 wanna let me borrow 3-4 grand hahah

BlackGasGuzzler

iTrader: (3)

Good runs. Let me know if you're ever around CLE.

CoolAid

You wouldn't be doing anything to the trans it wouldn't already do to itself. Your just moving a shift detent lever. The ECM has the final say on whether or not the **** occurs and when it does, the same mechanical motions inside the trans that shift it in D happen when you bump the stick. No extra force is put on it, a shift is a shift. You can actually help the life of it by pre selecting a gear when doing rolls instead of the kick down. Also, it takes the lag out of waiting for the kick down to hit so your already in the gear and ready to go when its time to floor it.

Practice some digs. Even if its hard to hook the car up try to pedal it. This is going to be your best shot against your friend IMO.

Nice runs man.

ytownls1

THE VIDEO IS IN!!!!!!! What you guys think. I was left lane both runs and honking....20 roll....shifted 1 2 d [D]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2D1534CJwE

CoolAid

Hes hanging in there pretty good for a "missed gear". Looks more like he buzzed a gear.

On the second one I figure you were a tad late rather than him jumping. Cars look matched well. Time for a dig to settle the score.