Good call - I don't like running 100% methanol because if you have a leak you are risking a big INVISIBLE fire. Have had 2 friends have fires in their car I went and bought a fire suppression system for my car (cheap!). Nothing scarier than a fluid with a lower flash temp than gasoline that burns transparent w/o smoke.

Oh so the aluminum seat is stock then? Gotcha.

Plastic - that's impressive.

PS I don't care who you call out on the internet. Making you made by calling out every incorrect fact you stated really left you bitter.

 

I will make sure to get some good video of it running just fine.

Think outside of the box maybe you'll learn something!

10:1 and 15 psi from that supercharger is nothing to cry about.

The funny part is that you clearly don't understand how AFR and Lambda work. 10.5 - 11:1 is not rich when injecting methanol.

 

Good kill? Must of been using direct port 150 shot

 

Naw - haven't fitted the system back up to my CNC'd manifold just yet

 

I'm limited being in 3rd world country. I run a 35 ethanol 65 water mixture through the car.

Boost juice costs like $50/gal here and my car has the biggest nozzles and we're starting injection at 1psi and full at about 6~ because pump gas here is so bad. The BEST pump gas here is like an 88 octane or something. So even with my 35/65 mixture I'm only getting about 108octane under boost.

Engine has 1k miles so far and is running pretty healthy. Let's hope it keeps going.

 

SS I didn't see your other post before I posted that sorry. Not long let's say like the last one.

He also defended the 10:1 15psi with I know so and so doing it on 35-40psi, but that car is an ODR car and runs Q or C16 not pump gas!

Seriously bad meth and water injection? I had a snow kit on my car with a 200psi pump. I ran my car at 11.9-12.1 at 14* WOT on 15psi on a stock bottom end not just putting around on the street BUT running it at the track at least once if not twice a week sometimes and on the street just like the previous owner did with it. Tell me I don't know how to tune and read a plug?

Let's see increased cyl pressure, pump gas, 15psi, 10:1 compression, yea that's a great idea!!!

I didn't delete it to cover myself. I decided it wasn't worth it to carry on with morons like yourself and decided to "man" up and call you and your bmw out since it's so fast.

 

Let re quote what I said earlier:

Don't care how well built your motor is.

Boost + bad gas will destroy anything.

 

Are you serious?

Lambda is lambda if it's on a gas scale, e85 scale or methanol scale

12.5=.85 and 14.68=1 it's the same unless you change the primary fuel enrichment to methanol instead of the gasoline coming out of your fuel injectors you moron.

 

is there any more popcorn left

 

That's a shame. Somalia is hell man, damn, props to you! I work for a DOD contractor and our guys used to go there and to Yemen... eek!

I don't mean run better fluid - I mean better systems.

The big part of why we are able to make sure huge power on pump and meth is because we run a different, more accurate system. We run based on injector duty cycle vs simply "pressure". It gives us much better mapping and lets the fluid in the motor where we need it when we need.

Snow performance is one of the worst kits out there. Its a great entry level setup but with no failsafes and a very "vague" controller.

Dude no offense, but we've built a lot of ****. If I thought like you we would never do the things we do. Sometimes you have to think and try **** vs dismiss it.



Yummy

I am not a new kid ont he block bro. I've run 11.6:1 motors on bigger boost than you're talking about making more hp/liter on pump and meth. You guys use very basic, poor controlled systems. I tried talking Alchemist into a better system - I think I am slowly getting him there

 

Should I take a picture of the stock driver's seat sitting in the car just for you?

I'd have to unbolt the kirkey and put it in, but only if it would make you feel ok with the fact that I will/would and always can rape you *** in the 1/8th in the 1/4 and from a roll on the spray. Just whenever you want to step up and get some.

 

I know what lambda is. Problem is you're calling 10.5 - 11.2 "pig rich". It seems like you don't understand how methanol content:fuel volume effects AFR. 10.5 on a gasoline stoich table is not rich when you inject a serious amount of water and meth.

 

I'm going to pick at you for a bit about this because I will admit I know **** to nothing about tuning.

At WOT with full meth injection my car is seeing 11.5 AFR. Timing was at 23*.

Is something wrong with this? Is my tuner running me REAL safe? Is there a bunch of hidden power somewhere I can un tap?

 

You don't have to you already posted a very clear video of a kirkley drag seat. Why would you need to post a picture? Its on video.

You probably didn't make it far in school did you? You never get bored of hearing yourself talk.

 

I also love how you also compare a pushrod motor and combustion chamber to a much more efficient OHC pent roof design vs. a wedge.

Now my buddy is the one who said that last one, but it's very very true and something I hadn't thought about.

You talk about direct injection and common rail set-ups that we don't even think about in the LSX world.

 

lol I'm not in somalia. I'm in Panama

So what kits should I be looking at for a serious build? I've got a stage 2 snow kit in the car and I mean it's nothing GREAT but it's getting the job done.

 

I actually was just about to say I need to go to bed so I can get up at 6:30 tomorrow morning so I can make my classes in the morning. I am going to school for diesel mechanics and cnc machining. Believe me I have a love and knowledge for direct injection 15:1 compression motors running 50psi of boost.

As I said my car has full interior and it would take me 3 minutes to put the stock driver's seat in.

 

Holy misinformation. I never said I intend to run it at 10.2:1 afr. I said when I first put the procharger on, the first tune I flashed in I saw afr's dip as low at 10.2, but came back up to 10.8. Fact is I also said that I was commanding 11.2-11.4 but I was still working on getting the VE table corrected. When the motor went, I had made good progress on the tune and was only seeing as low as 10.4:1 afr only for an instant then leaning out to 11.1:1. And I was only running 13 degrees of timing.

When I was deciding on how to go with my build, I consulted a few people who I respect their opinions, one being Kurt Urban, another being my engine builder. Kurt and I talked on the phone for a good 80-90 minutes about my setup and my tune, and what I was planning to do. Kurt assured me that I didn't do anything wrong other than push the motor beyond it's capacities. I was maxing out 60lb injectors, which Kurt estimated I was making ~900 at the crank, for whatever it was worth.

When I posted that everything was going to the machine shop and I was only dropping compression to 10.1:1 and planned to install a water/meoh setup, junkie got upset and said good luck with that, you're going to blow up your motor.

I've never bashed on Fbodyjunkie, hell I don't even know his name. Fact is, I chose to decide to do something with my own motor that he didn't like, i.e. run higher compression ratio than he reccomended, and he's now taken a personal vendetta against me. He tried to argue that meoh alone was better than water because it's cooler in your hand, so it's going to cool the engine better, to which I explained the difference between the two compounds difference in latent heat capacity. I guess he didn't like that, as he proceeded to wish me further bad fortune.

I really feel bad for this kid. He must not have anything else in his life. For me, this is a hobby, something to get away from important things in my life and relax.

If I want to blow up another engine, then it's on me. It's not like someone else is footing the bill. Hell, I've got the money, so it's only my time going into this.


I've said all along that it was running rich, but it wasn't out of the ordinary or harmful.

Yesterday a nieghbor stopped over to chat. He and I've chatted in passing before but I never knew what he did. He's a mechanical engineer with a phd in metalurgy and designs/builds 10,000hp gas turbine engines. He saw me working on the car and asked what happened to the motor.

I proceeded to show him my pistons, rings, bearings, and the block. I asked straight up, what do you think happened, and his response was rings butted, cylinder pressure cracked the piston. Before I could say anything, he said, well it looks like you didn't have detonation or knock and you have a good burn, your afr was pretty good.

So because I chose to listen to people who have years of knowlege and experience over some one on the internet who I've never met and told me that he's just now going to school to be a mechanic, I chose to beleive and go off the suggestions of those people. Everyone I trust has led me to beleive that I'll be fine with 10.1:1 compression with forged pistons/rods, and a good set of rings. I am installing a water/meoh kit as I beleive, right or wrong, that it's the best means of controlling detonation for my setup. It's a decision I made, and this kid is bent over it.

 

Man do not listen to this guy, do not run your car any richer that is fine there.

It will NOT make anymore power if you richen it up.

Lean is mean.

11.5:1 is not lean by any means and is plenty safe and at 8psi that amount of timing is ok, but with the octane of your gas I would lower it to around 20.

 

Traditionally what we do is (we use Aquamist systems) tune the car for a comfortable boost pressure that you intend to run when your water/meth fails. On our cars its around 18 - 21 psi from a 67 - 72mm turbo. You'll see your fuel curve nicely with that. Then we retune that with calculated jet size (this is where a lot of other systems don't do such a good job... snow, AIS, devils own, etc). With Aquamist I am able to trigger via injector duty w/ exacting results - if I do not pull fuel I can expect to see a full 0.5 AFR points richer. I over jet by about 10% so I tend to see about 0.6 - 0.7 AFR richer with the methanol on vs not. Then I simply back FUEL out to put my AFR where I want. SO - if I am shooting for street tune safety (which is all I tune for, so my 685 rwhp setup has a **** ton on the table yet) I am targeting 10.3 - 10.5 AFR with fuel untouched initially, then I will pull some fuel, and add some timing. On our cars adding timing doesn't alter AFR drastically, so it's very easy to control. With psi based kits you don't quite have so much control. Since my system is injector duty based (IDC) when I pull fuel, I pull meth too. It works out very nicely.

Its hard to say how your tuner leaned on your motor - 11.2 sounds safe but I don't know how much you are jetted for or what system you have.