Cam only Z28 vs full bolt on WS6
#22
My car is a turd on the 1/4 with stock 3:42, heavy rims, lowered and no weight reduction. A 9inch with 4:10, drag wheels/slick, drag shocks would make it a hero on the strip. but for now, it rolls out good with the 3:42 and the juice
Depends what you want..
My car made 404rwhp with H/C/I/E so those numbers are just crap. My guess is both cars are around 350rwhp. Running a cam untuned is just useless.
Depends what you want..
My car made 404rwhp with H/C/I/E so those numbers are just crap. My guess is both cars are around 350rwhp. Running a cam untuned is just useless.
#24
Bottom line you shouldn't live and die by dyno numbers, generally all dyno's read different and all dyno's have different correcting percentages which skew the power output yielded. Like i said before, it should only be used as a tuning tool to see if what your doing to your tune is beneficial or not in regards to your power band.
#25
He'll get LT's, supporting mods and a tune this year.
This was just more of an experiment seeing how a basically all stock car with a cam ran nose to nose with a full bolt on car.
If you look at the price of a $600 cam kit vs a car with about $1700 bolt ons including a tune, you can see that bang for the buck with just a 228r wasn't a terrible choice.
This was just more of an experiment seeing how a basically all stock car with a cam ran nose to nose with a full bolt on car.
If you look at the price of a $600 cam kit vs a car with about $1700 bolt ons including a tune, you can see that bang for the buck with just a 228r wasn't a terrible choice.
#26
#27
Bottom line you shouldn't live and die by dyno numbers, generally all dyno's read different and all dyno's have different correcting percentages which skew the power output yielded. Like i said before, it should only be used as a tuning tool to see if what your doing to your tune is beneficial or not in regards to your power band.
As far as the dynos, I try to stay away from the kinds where the operator has a lot of influence on the numbers based on his input. All dynos of the same kind don't read exactly the same, but I've been on enough in the area to know that they are generally close. As long as you use some common sense and know when to throw up a red flag you can make some fairly accurate conclusions based on dyno numbers.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the track timers are not always accurate. If they were then I guess my brother's stock LT1 was a freak trapping 88 mph in the 1/8
Don't take this as me saying track numbers are no good. Given a choice between the two I'd generally want track numbers too. I was just responding to the comment that "dyno numbers are invalid", which I don't believe to be true most of the time.
For best results just go out and run the cars. Dyno and track numbers are useful in bench racing, but sometimes the results will surprise you.
Last edited by ScreaminRedZ; 03-24-2012 at 09:01 AM.
#28
so basically what we're seeing here is that a 228 cammed car with 0 supporting mods, not even a tune; will run door to door with a bolt-on car. the $ invested comparison looks a lot better than the common sense comparison. i can see the "cam only" ls6 car in this thread dragging both of those others, with a smaller cam, no tune, etc.
good info. sounds like it was a good run.
good info. sounds like it was a good run.
#29
Traps speeds have their problems too. The biggest one is trying to compare two cars performance based on traps speeds that were attained at different tracks on different days. There was a guy around here who hit consistent 120 mph at the track. My cammed (at the time) LS1 was a consistent 116-117 mph car. From a roll on the street I was able to pull him every time. Stuff like that happens all the time where the "slower" car based on trap speeds turns out to be faster on the street. I've seen it happen with cars that got their mph #'s on the same day at the same track too, although it's less likely to be the case.
But ill take trap speeds over dyno #'s any day. Just my opinion.
All dynos read different, but all tracks produce identical results? People don't use correction factors to try and compare numbers from different tracks?
As far as the dynos, I try to stay away from the kinds where the operator has a lot of influence on the numbers based on his input. All dynos of the same kind don't read exactly the same, but I've been on enough in the area to know that they are generally close. As long as you use some common sense and know when to throw up a red flag you can make some fairly accurate conclusions based on dyno numbers.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the track timers are not always accurate. If they were then I guess my brother's stock LT1 was a freak trapping 88 mph in the 1/8
Don't take this as me saying track numbers are no good. Given a choice between the two I'd generally want track numbers too. I was just responding to the comment that "dyno numbers are invalid", which I don't believe to be true most of the time.
For best results just go out and run the cars. Dyno and track numbers are useful in bench racing, but sometimes the results will surprise you.
As far as the dynos, I try to stay away from the kinds where the operator has a lot of influence on the numbers based on his input. All dynos of the same kind don't read exactly the same, but I've been on enough in the area to know that they are generally close. As long as you use some common sense and know when to throw up a red flag you can make some fairly accurate conclusions based on dyno numbers.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the track timers are not always accurate. If they were then I guess my brother's stock LT1 was a freak trapping 88 mph in the 1/8
Don't take this as me saying track numbers are no good. Given a choice between the two I'd generally want track numbers too. I was just responding to the comment that "dyno numbers are invalid", which I don't believe to be true most of the time.
For best results just go out and run the cars. Dyno and track numbers are useful in bench racing, but sometimes the results will surprise you.
#31
#32
It does beg the question, would you be better off doing a cam and tune right off the bat? Probably a better bang for the buck, especially if you were going to get expensive headers or you can do the install yourself.