Death to HioSSiver!!
05-01-2012, 09:24 AM
#181
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I never said the car was stock. I said the engine is.....try comprehending. Oil life light moniters lots of parameters to detemine.........hmmm......oil life! Seems like a no brainer to me.
05-01-2012, 09:45 AM
#182
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Best 60 ft was a1.9 so the car wasnt getting worked hard. should i have been running oil over dipstick full level mark? i did notice the pan is dented. ill have the motor out tonight. i want to see if the dent is bad enough its making contact with the pick up.. our ecu will pull alot of timing based on he coolant temp correct?
The dipstick can be misleading. According to the dipstick you're level is fine with as little as 5 qts in the pan. I used to always run 6 qts 10-30 RP, but I think mine was down around 5 & a half qts when it galled the oil pump. There were no signs of brngs spinning and I don't think any of that would have been a problem (as long as bits didn't get up to the cams). I tore the engine apart because the compression numbers were starting to read low. If you look through that photobucket you'll see a scuffed piston, and a microscope pic of a chipped & bent compression ring. I had at least 3 chipped compression rings, and 1 scuffed cylinder which was beginning to turn white (early sign of torch). That's where I came to the conclusion that when you run lean or too much timing, or too hot the chain of events are: Rings expand & butt. Chipping moly. Pistons expand and scuff, and if you keep going you torch a piston.
Now I run 7 & a half qts. You can run 8 without the crank whipping it.
While there is nothing wrong with 5-20 oil (in fact that'll drain out of the heads easier), I like to run 10-30 because it pumps up the lifters and chain tensioners better. The thicker the oil, the longer it stays in the head.
Since you're going through the engine be sure to open up the oil pump and inspect it for galling and cracks in the rotors. Also inspect the cam journals for signs of contaminants. Last thing you want is to put it together and lock a cam snapping your timing chain and possibly cracking your new oil pump...
I like the melling pump because it has an iron housing that shouldn't gall like the stock aluminum pump. Be sure to open up the new pump and run a lint free cloth with some turpentine through it to remove any casting debris. I found 2 visible bits in my melling... Grease the rotors up with assy lube and put it back together.
Now is a good time to upgrade the headbolts. They are "torque to yield" and aren't supposed to be reused. Above 600-650rwhp (assuming a safe tune) they stretch under full load (I say assuming a safe tune because with detonation you'll beat things up at much less power). This can mean pushing coolant under boost, squirming heads which can crack the headbolt bores, and worst case torching.
IMO there is no reason not to put some ARP headstuds in it.
Other things to upgrade:
- Cam bolts to ARP but do not tq past 60ft-lbs using ARP assy lube as you can squish the stock cam bolt washers. There are other options here too such as drilling the cams for a 12mm or 9/16" bolt instead of the stock wimpy 10mm bolt. However, if you go that route you MUST upgrade the stock cam bolt washer.
- Cam bolt washers.
- Timing chain tensioners with the all iron tensioners and grind off the last 4 or 5 teeth from the ratchet lock.
- Side bolts (everybody spends the $50 on MMR but Mcmaster car can supply the same bolt for ~$20)
-Main studs
- All consumables like rings & headgaskets
That's about the bare minimum that I would do on a cheap rebuild. Oil pan, intake, exhaust, valve cover, and timing cover gaskets can be reused as long as they aren't blown from whatever. You can see a pic of my blown intake gasket from where I torqued it down when it was swelled from fuel.
Ultra black RTV the valve cover gaskets around the spark plug holes, the joint where the front cover meets the oil pan & valve covers, in fact I ultra blacked the entire front cover gaskets. Oh and RTV the oil pan gasket where it meets the rear seal cover.
Sorry to hear about your failure. It's really is an odd one.
05-01-2012, 09:51 AM
#183
A badly dented pan could have bent the pickup but I'm sure you know that.
The dipstick can be misleading. According to the dipstick you're level is fine with as little as 5 qts in the pan. I used to always run 6 qts 10-30 RP, but I think mine was down around 5 & a half qts when it galled the oil pump. There were no signs of brngs spinning and I don't think any of that would have been a problem (as long as bits didn't get up to the cams). I tore the engine apart because the compression numbers were starting to read low. If you look through that photobucket you'll see a scuffed piston, and a microscope pic of a chipped & bent compression ring. I had at least 3 chipped compression rings, and 1 scuffed cylinder which was beginning to turn white (early sign of torch). That's where I came to the conclusion that when you run lean or too much timing, or too hot the chain of events are: Rings expand & butt. Chipping moly. Pistons expand and scuff, and if you keep going you torch a piston.
Now I run 7 & a half qts. You can run 8 without the crank whipping it.
While there is nothing wrong with 5-20 oil (in fact that'll drain out of the heads easier), I like to run 10-30 because it pumps up the lifters and chain tensioners better. The thicker the oil, the longer it stays in the head.
Since you're going through the engine be sure to open up the oil pump and inspect it for galling and cracks in the rotors. Also inspect the cam journals for signs of contaminants. Last thing you want is to put it together and lock a cam snapping your timing chain and possibly cracking your new oil pump...
I like the melling pump because it has an iron housing that shouldn't gall like the stock aluminum pump. Be sure to open up the new pump and run a lint free cloth with some turpentine through it to remove any casting debris. I found 2 visible bits in my melling... Grease the rotors up with assy lube and put it back together.
Now is a good time to upgrade the headbolts. They are "torque to yield" and aren't supposed to be reused. Above 600-650rwhp (assuming a safe tune) they stretch under full load (I say assuming a safe tune because with detonation you'll beat things up at much less power). This can mean pushing coolant under boost, squirming heads which can crack the headbolt bores, and worst case torching.
IMO there is no reason not to put some ARP headstuds in it.
Other things to upgrade:
- Cam bolts to ARP but do not tq past 60ft-lbs using ARP assy lube as you can squish the stock cam bolt washers. There are other options here too such as drilling the cams for a 12mm or 9/16" bolt instead of the stock wimpy 10mm bolt. However, if you go that route you MUST upgrade the stock cam bolt washer.
- Cam bolt washers.
- Timing chain tensioners with the all iron tensioners and grind off the last 4 or 5 teeth from the ratchet lock.
- Side bolts (everybody spends the $50 on MMR but Mcmaster car can supply the same bolt for ~$20)
-Main studs
- All consumables like rings & headgaskets
That's about the bare minimum that I would do on a cheap rebuild. Oil pan, intake, exhaust, valve cover, and timing cover gaskets can be reused as long as they aren't blown from whatever. You can see a pic of my blown intake gasket from where I torqued it down when it was swelled from fuel.
Ultra black RTV the valve cover gaskets around the spark plug holes, the joint where the front cover meets the oil pan & valve covers, in fact I ultra blacked the entire front cover gaskets. Oh and RTV the oil pan gasket where it meets the rear seal cover.
Sorry to hear about your failure. It's really is an odd one.
The dipstick can be misleading. According to the dipstick you're level is fine with as little as 5 qts in the pan. I used to always run 6 qts 10-30 RP, but I think mine was down around 5 & a half qts when it galled the oil pump. There were no signs of brngs spinning and I don't think any of that would have been a problem (as long as bits didn't get up to the cams). I tore the engine apart because the compression numbers were starting to read low. If you look through that photobucket you'll see a scuffed piston, and a microscope pic of a chipped & bent compression ring. I had at least 3 chipped compression rings, and 1 scuffed cylinder which was beginning to turn white (early sign of torch). That's where I came to the conclusion that when you run lean or too much timing, or too hot the chain of events are: Rings expand & butt. Chipping moly. Pistons expand and scuff, and if you keep going you torch a piston.
Now I run 7 & a half qts. You can run 8 without the crank whipping it.
While there is nothing wrong with 5-20 oil (in fact that'll drain out of the heads easier), I like to run 10-30 because it pumps up the lifters and chain tensioners better. The thicker the oil, the longer it stays in the head.
Since you're going through the engine be sure to open up the oil pump and inspect it for galling and cracks in the rotors. Also inspect the cam journals for signs of contaminants. Last thing you want is to put it together and lock a cam snapping your timing chain and possibly cracking your new oil pump...
I like the melling pump because it has an iron housing that shouldn't gall like the stock aluminum pump. Be sure to open up the new pump and run a lint free cloth with some turpentine through it to remove any casting debris. I found 2 visible bits in my melling... Grease the rotors up with assy lube and put it back together.
Now is a good time to upgrade the headbolts. They are "torque to yield" and aren't supposed to be reused. Above 600-650rwhp (assuming a safe tune) they stretch under full load (I say assuming a safe tune because with detonation you'll beat things up at much less power). This can mean pushing coolant under boost, squirming heads which can crack the headbolt bores, and worst case torching.
IMO there is no reason not to put some ARP headstuds in it.
Other things to upgrade:
- Cam bolts to ARP but do not tq past 60ft-lbs using ARP assy lube as you can squish the stock cam bolt washers. There are other options here too such as drilling the cams for a 12mm or 9/16" bolt instead of the stock wimpy 10mm bolt. However, if you go that route you MUST upgrade the stock cam bolt washer.
- Cam bolt washers.
- Timing chain tensioners with the all iron tensioners and grind off the last 4 or 5 teeth from the ratchet lock.
- Side bolts (everybody spends the $50 on MMR but Mcmaster car can supply the same bolt for ~$20)
-Main studs
- All consumables like rings & headgaskets
That's about the bare minimum that I would do on a cheap rebuild. Oil pan, intake, exhaust, valve cover, and timing cover gaskets can be reused as long as they aren't blown from whatever. You can see a pic of my blown intake gasket from where I torqued it down when it was swelled from fuel.
Ultra black RTV the valve cover gaskets around the spark plug holes, the joint where the front cover meets the oil pan & valve covers, in fact I ultra blacked the entire front cover gaskets. Oh and RTV the oil pan gasket where it meets the rear seal cover.
Sorry to hear about your failure. It's really is an odd one.
05-01-2012, 09:53 AM
#184
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05-01-2012, 10:00 AM
#185
im very gun shy at this point. i might feel beter when/if i can pin point an exact cause. ill post picks of what i find. im trying to get some tools to get it apart. like follower removal tools. and our motors take a different removal tool than regular 4.6 on the balancer removal right?
05-01-2012, 10:10 AM
#186
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I yanked my balancer with a standard cheap balancer puller that I've owned for probably 20 years now.
I think you're talking about the Supercharger crank pulley key. google the metco installation instructions and that should walk you through it. I don't remember what size it is.
I think you're talking about the Supercharger crank pulley key. google the metco installation instructions and that should walk you through it. I don't remember what size it is.
05-01-2012, 10:19 AM
#187
I yanked my balancer with a standard cheap balancer puller that I've owned for probably 20 years now.
I think you're talking about the Supercharger crank pulley key. google the metco installation instructions and that should walk you through it. I don't remember what size it is.
I think you're talking about the Supercharger crank pulley key. google the metco installation instructions and that should walk you through it. I don't remember what size it is.
05-01-2012, 11:00 AM
#188
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05-01-2012, 11:43 AM
#191
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I would hope if it didn't come on you would at least change it every 5k?
05-01-2012, 11:45 AM
#192
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Do you comprehend yet?
Learn to ******* spell already, too. Download Mozilla Firefox with the built in spell checker, and when you see the little squiggly red line under your words, right click them and pick your best guess from the options they give you. I know you're gonna say it's not a grammar forum but **** there are ways to mask your level of incompetence, and communication by typing is the SOLE way people know (or try to decipher) what the hell you mean or are trying to say. I understand everybody makes a typo sometimes but your entire typing history is a typo.
05-01-2012, 12:08 PM
#194
evidently he doesnt care about his spelling. hes not writing a book. so no normal person cares thats not looking for a chance to critisize. get off the grammar bs. as for calling it stock hes talking the motor and who cares anyway its his he paid for it can call it what ever he wants.
05-01-2012, 12:18 PM
#195
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evidently he doesnt care about his spelling. hes not writing a book. so no normal person cares thats not looking for a chance to critisize. get off the grammar bs. as for calling it stock hes talking the motor and who cares anyway its his he paid for it can call it what ever he wants.
It's not that I'm a grammar ****, I keep my mouth shut most of the time about it, but communication via text is the ONLY way we get through to each other on here...why not do something simple (and FREE) and download a browser like I mentioned so people understand you loud and clear? I'm guilty of a typo just as much as the next guy but damn...
05-01-2012, 12:45 PM
#196
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GMs oil life is not the smartest thing in the world. I don't think it works to bad on your model. Be here lately it has people going 8-10k miles between oil changes. It's not good. I see what happens everyday.
I would hope if it didn't come on you would at least change it every 5k?
I would hope if it didn't come on you would at least change it every 5k?
You refer to your car as "my stock ****" and what ever else. Your setup is not stock at all. You literally dropped a Z06 motor into your Camaro, and you try to act like your **** should be considered just as stock as a Camaro driven off the showroom floor. You're not fooling anybody. Refer to my example about a 96 vert GT dropping in a 03/04 Cobra motor or better yet a new Boss motor (before you start your period about the Cobra motor having a blower). If a guy did that and called it stock I'd laugh my *** off. Anybody can drop in a "stock" motor then and play the games you try to play.
Do you comprehend yet?
Learn to ******* spell already, too. Download Mozilla Firefox with the built in spell checker, and when you see the little squiggly red line under your words, right click them and pick your best guess from the options they give you. I know you're gonna say it's not a grammar forum but **** there are ways to mask your level of incompetence, and communication by typing is the SOLE way people know (or try to decipher) what the hell you mean or are trying to say. I understand everybody makes a typo sometimes but your entire typing history is a typo.
Do you comprehend yet?
Learn to ******* spell already, too. Download Mozilla Firefox with the built in spell checker, and when you see the little squiggly red line under your words, right click them and pick your best guess from the options they give you. I know you're gonna say it's not a grammar forum but **** there are ways to mask your level of incompetence, and communication by typing is the SOLE way people know (or try to decipher) what the hell you mean or are trying to say. I understand everybody makes a typo sometimes but your entire typing history is a typo.
As far as my ride and acting like anything.......read the sig dumbass. My mods are there. No games being played here.....just your nutswinging *** hurting about a good running stock longblock. If I called the engine anything other than a bolt-on ls6 I would be lying.
Last edited by HioSSilver; 05-01-2012 at 12:52 PM.
05-01-2012, 12:52 PM
#198
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It usually comes on around 6k. So far so good no reason to change.
**** you and your spelling bullshit. If you don't like it don't read my posts and certainly don't quote me. There are forums for that **** and to be honest......I don't give a ****
As far as my ride and acting like anything.......read the sig dumbass. My mods are there. No games being played here.....just your nutswinging *** hurting about a good running stock longblock.
**** you and your spelling bullshit. If you don't like it don't read my posts and certainly don't quote me. There are forums for that **** and to be honest......I don't give a ****
As far as my ride and acting like anything.......read the sig dumbass. My mods are there. No games being played here.....just your nutswinging *** hurting about a good running stock longblock.
...and why would I be "hurting" because your car runs well?
When did I even mention a Ford in any of my responses to you? (on the nutswinging comment). You're like a broken record...someone says something you don't like and it's nutswing this Ford that...get some new material, doll...man you're just all ate up about them Blue Ovals 
05-01-2012, 01:50 PM
#199
