Heater

I would upgrade the pistons, put billet oil pump gears in it, do the head cooling mod and you will be Golden.

odarabla

iTrader: (1)

I know the feeling man. When I was putting my car back together and my girl was about to have our daughter I kept having all sorts of issues with my build. Remember I had a brand new block that had a crack in it? Not only that but I had to shell out more $$$ for a new block, gaskets and machine work. The new block was $1200.00, gasket kit for my motor, $400.00, new freeze plugs, $70.00, machine work $600.00, New rings, $400.00.. Then I didn't have the time to work on it and I couldn't leave the car at my buddies shop so I had another friend pull the motor for me for $700.00. This was to pull and reinstall.

92cobranotch

iTrader: (9)

it has head cooling mod. whats best brand oil pump for it?

Heater

Triangle Speed Shop makes the most expensive, and Melling makes the gears where you just replace them and keep the stock housing.

Stay away from MMR, their reputation has gone to ****.


A lot of guys like the Melling. If you decide to go that route, this is the one to get:

http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/a...2132012906.jpg

92cobranotch

iTrader: (9)

ive always used melling in my sbfs. this is my first mod motor.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

They are being discontinued. I couldn't care less...never liked them. BTW don't ever buy anything from MMR. Thats just my opinion obviously...

Heater

I use Melling oil pumps also in my builds.


I talked to some friends that are more educated about mod motors than me and they wanted to know if you pedalled the car (slick track)?

They said that if you pedal one with a stock oil pump, it damages the oil pump gears and cause loss of pressure. I knew that the gears in the stock pump couldn't take a lot of shock, but didn't know that pedalling a car was enough shock to hurt them.

92cobranotch

iTrader: (9)

et drag radial.... i pedaled the **** out of it it was spinning 3rd and early 4th at over 100mph. they perepped the first 60ft the the back half was slick as hell. every thing they are saying lines up perfect. i did pedal during burn out also. good lookin out heater you dont know how much i apreciate it...........stoppy reason for aluminator (short block) wich is currently still a go. is to get 70 lbs off my front end while im down. and yea the long block is discontinued as will be the short in next few months

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Is it ok to even start one of these engines? Foe Christ sakes there is alot of don't's with them. How did they ever get this terminator/legendary status?.? With all these issues I can only think of 1 four letter word for them. It begins with a j

92cobranotch

iTrader: (9)

my plan is as of now is to put a melling oil pump in it. have my engine builder to set everything at loose end of factory spec. and then it will be safe to run a little thicker oil and maybe an aditive. this is as long as the cranks not trashed. it will get a 7qt pan. and i will port and polish oil returns

92cobranotch

iTrader: (9)

mine is f*****g j**K!!! how ever its never going back to pushrod again. **** that and **** a coyote. blows up 1 more time lsx!

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

What bullshit


No offense to you Heater

92cobranotch

iTrader: (9)

No offense to you stoppy but this thing is a whole different animal than a mach motor or 99 with a centrifugal. unless you mean mod in general.

92cobranotch

iTrader: (9)

and i looked through the link heater posted on the pump. if you look through that photobucket there are pics of damaged oil pump. i think thats what it is. and definetly damaged bearings

snake95

Please elaborate on MMR being ****? I've NEVER heard this...and have heard the opposite, however I have never owned a mod motor.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

It is safe to run thicker oil now. LOL I'm telling you man...run you some 5w30 or 10w30 and you will be fine. Want me to quote some people that work high up in Ford as to why Ford uses 5w20 in the 4v and alot of other Ford motors? It has NOTHING to do with safety or performance and everything to do with emissions and $$$$. An oil pump gear isn't a bad idea though. I wouldn't go with Melling (I've also owned them). The 4v gears have bad machine marks in them and I know of one I can get for cheaper that is done better. 7qt pan is also NOT needed. You probably aren't even reving the motor above 6500 am I right? You are over thinking this problem and looking to blame the motor when that isn't the cause.

snake95

92cobranotch why the attitude toward a pushrod motor in the notch? Please oh Please don't drop a GM motor in that car...(cue HiO to come in with LS dickswinging).

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Same **** as started in 96. (hell actually 93) Powdered oil pump gears. Never have I heard of "pedalling" causing it to break.

Heater

Honestly, when I bought my Cobra I didn't know that much about the engines other than they were forged from the factory. After the first 3 months, I couldn't believe how many quirks they have. They are very finicky and have to be treated more differently than anything I have ever owned.


I would not change the tolerances when you have the engine builder put the engine back together. Just run what Ford recommends (Motorcraft 5W-20) and you will be ok.

snake95

HiO why don't you go have your friend powershift from 3rd to 2nd again or whatever he did the first time so you can run a 427 in your car and still call it stock.