Whiplash88

This.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

got damn you guys need more **** to do at work home play whatever it is you do

S8ER95Z

iTrader: (3)

I thought the best use of an LS was in a ford? *disclaimer... I drive a ******* fbody... its junk* lol

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Not blaming them for using junk, blaming them for not fixing junk that was having issues within a couple hundred miles, again at 1400 miles, and then completely **** at just under 5k miles. Especially when people involved ended up fired because corporate KNOWS it was handled wrong. So why not just bite the bullet and make the repair to leave a customer happy? It probably would have cost them under $300 in parts and less than 10 hours labor. The dealership lost more than that refunding the extended warranty coverage which was promptly canceled.

If one of the 4 GM trucks my family bought new **** a 4l60e before it was due for its first oil change and then refused to honor their warranty, then we would be in the same boat and you can bet your *** I would be just as irritated.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

I dd a 97 jeep lol all this talk of new cars baffles me. I am looking at c6z cars , despite their valve guide issues

automach1

The car hasn't been back to the track derp. You don't get it do you? Well atleast we know Bolton ls6s can only go 11.0 because that is what derp has ran so far

big hammer

Lol poor Automach

flash0080

Yet you skip all the ones in red. Loose bolts that disabled steering. Throttle getting stuck. Frame separation. Geez talk about blind loyalty. I'm sorry your link didnt provide the ford bashing you were hoping for.

It'llrun

I'd be mad too, if I got a new car with a bad transmission or any other major issue. The point I was making is that people are still going on and on and on about this issue and it's been clear since November of 2011... It's September of 2013 already.... That's quite awhile to beat on a dead horse.

Personally, I agree that the dealership should've simply fixed the car and filed the warranty as directed by the manufacturer and it's apparent, they didn't. That's the dealership issue though, not the manufacturer and it seems to me, both are being blamed for all of it. Ultimately, the majority of those transmissions though, haven't had any problems. That is to say, less than 1% have had problems and that's a great record, not a bad one.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Seems like everyone on here has had a problem.


....... Yea I would much rather go up in a ball of flames

Heater

So entertaining to watch people throw rocks when they live in a glass house

evangto87

iTrader: (6)

I said it before and ill say it again.... the clutch/pressure plate is the reason you cant shift these cars very well at high rpm....NOT the transmission. But that will go ignored again.

Buddy in his white GT/CS has had flawless shifting with his stock GT intake shifting at 6900-7000rpm. As fast as he wants or can. Hes gone 11.8 at 117 at a 3725lb race weight without longtubes or a boss intake. He added a boss intake and now takes it to 7600rpm. He now cant shift the 1-2. He has to short shift to not grind. The boss clutches are only SLIGHTLY better. Youre able to spin them 7200-7300 without issue. Any higher and the same issues occur.

For all the guys biased-ly hating on it. Put a stock clutch and master in your t-56 car... and rev it 7800 and try to shift fast.... Let me know how that works out for ya. You guys would be popping synchros left and right. No one blames the t-56 now do they?

S8ER95Z

iTrader: (3)

7800 on my motor? Lol. Pass

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Well Idk how a t56 would shift at high rpm with a good clutch.....never tried that. A buddy did a engine years ago that turned 7500. The car could not be shifted at high rpm. We kinda knew this already due to the shifting issues both of us have previously had. We had tried to shim the HRB to get more push to the clutch before too. We were doin this back in 01-02. It's a shame we didn't have the capital to build a good clutch for these cars then. We could've saved alot of people from having these headaches. These are the reasons I did what I to my t56 and finally put together the tilton clutch......years before that style of clutch became available. The stock master ended up being fine.....I still run it. Now that's not saying some have not went bad. But it is not the performance problem. The clutch is the problem on the fbody's.
You should have your limiter at 6800-7000

big hammer

lol I told you that like a year ago and you got all Mr Pissy pants.

Whiplash88

My house is rubber, it deflects rock

S8ER95Z

iTrader: (3)

I meant to ask... I know the stock valve train was run for 100 hours at 6800rpm but I haven't had the stones to go above 6600... Figured I should get better valve springs or at least lighter valves before doing that. Would you run the ls6 yellows and ls1 valves at that kind of RPM? Seems like a recipe for valve float or a broken spring to me.

snake95

Give that MF'er some RPM!

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

I run my yellows to 7000 and it was fine....but I have the ls6 valve of course. IDK how much room is left on them rpm wise. To be safe you would be better off with a set of springs. While your changing the springs find you some 1.8 roller rockers. You should then be able to spin it to 7000 if you want. To get to most out of that cam you should be shifting @ 6600-6800.

If you would get lighter valves you would probably be better off finding some ls6 heads complete. They're not that expensive used. Those and the rockers should net you 30-40 hp with no loss of drivability and be able to spin it to 7000 would make a large difference.

S8ER95Z

iTrader: (3)

I plan on picking up some 243s eventually... Probably leave it as is for now... I shift right at 6550ish per my hptuner logs. We are quickly approaching the crap weather here so I won't be going over 3k for 3 or 4 months anyways.