Heater

I think I read somewhere that Ford decided to use the same clutch that came in the 3V cars and that was what the problem was.

Supposedly same place I read that said that Ford has a much better clutch coming in the 2015 Mustang.

evangto87

iTrader: (6)

Unfortunately a clutch of the same level/quality you can put in an LS powered car... you cant put into one of these. Its not even that the clutches are junk, they are just not built to handle high rpm that most high performance motors wouldnt see from the factory like these do. Hell i just had to replace an alternator on mine and I already have the high rev kit (one way clutch in the alternator and a 2.75 pulley instead of 2.1). But because Im spinning it 500rpm higher then stock, it already ate the bearings. So I either need to find a 3"-3.25" pulley and fab it or have an under drive pulley custom fabbed. Im only spinning 4 pulleys. 2 idlers, 1 tensioner, and the alternator. Im leaning towards the balancer route as I would need an SFI balancer to legally run 10s

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

RPM was the issue on the ls clutch's. I found out real quick when I started trying to shift @ 6800....roughly 1000 higher than a stock ls should be shifted. I have seen no issues other than keeping the belt on at that rpm. Which was easily rectified (and not a huge issue anyway) with a guard I made for the tensioner.....now I have no tensioner either......problem super solved

big hammer

I even noticed a difference shifting at 6000.

evangto87

iTrader: (6)

The more you start to "feel" the internals of the trans on shifts, the less the clutch is working. My car is easier to shift at 8k rpm with the Mcleod then it was to shift with the stock clutch at 7k. 7400rpm wasnt that bad to shift the car when it was stock. But over time, adding more power just made it work less and less. Im sure synchro wear over time didnt help either.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

I'm sure on a worn stock clutch.....even the replacement style Spec's. I actually broke something in my stock clutch. But it went before the ls6 was put in.
Mine actually got so bad I could dry rev it in gear sitting still and the car would try to move. The longer the sustained rpm was the harder it was to shift.

audacious nick

He was busy singing Boyfriend to his boyfriend.

adamantium

iTrader: (3)

Hammer i think i found another button style clutch, thats off the shelf. Gonna call coleman racing on monday about it. Its a 5.5" button.

big hammer

I seen that thing--- it's freakin tiny lol. I never called about it though

adamantium

iTrader: (3)

lmao the one you have is a 7.25 i think ill just run that since you and notch have had success with it.

big hammer

OneSlowV

iTrader: (2)

I should of added that my clutch was sticking to the floor. Those mods helped my car big time.

evangto87

iTrader: (6)

my clutch was sticking to the floor after all of those mods. If i wound out a gear to right before I shifted it... but didnt pull the shift and just put the clutch in, the clutch pedal wouldnt come back up on its own. I would have to pull it back myself. Replaced the clutch... never again. Do you have any idea how much the factory line would have to swell to not push the clutch pedal back up?

OneSlowV

iTrader: (2)

Don't really care my clutch does not stick anymore. With the helper spring and clutch line it solved my issues. Also you rev your car past 7500 I don't if I did I would do the clutch then.