5.bro vs cobro...
#41
On The Tree
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Wilmywood NC
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think I read somewhere that Ford decided to use the same clutch that came in the 3V cars and that was what the problem was.
Supposedly same place I read that said that Ford has a much better clutch coming in the 2015 Mustang.
Supposedly same place I read that said that Ford has a much better clutch coming in the 2015 Mustang.
#42
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Unfortunately a clutch of the same level/quality you can put in an LS powered car... you cant put into one of these. Its not even that the clutches are junk, they are just not built to handle high rpm that most high performance motors wouldnt see from the factory like these do. Hell i just had to replace an alternator on mine and I already have the high rev kit (one way clutch in the alternator and a 2.75 pulley instead of 2.1). But because Im spinning it 500rpm higher then stock, it already ate the bearings. So I either need to find a 3"-3.25" pulley and fab it or have an under drive pulley custom fabbed. Im only spinning 4 pulleys. 2 idlers, 1 tensioner, and the alternator. Im leaning towards the balancer route as I would need an SFI balancer to legally run 10s
#43
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
RPM was the issue on the ls clutch's. I found out real quick when I started trying to shift @ 6800....roughly 1000 higher than a stock ls should be shifted. I have seen no issues other than keeping the belt on at that rpm. Which was easily rectified (and not a huge issue anyway) with a guard I made for the tensioner.....now I have no tensioner either......problem super solved
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
#44
10 Second Club
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
RPM was the issue on the ls clutch's. I found out real quick when I started trying to shift @ 6800....roughly 1000 higher than a stock ls should be shifted. I have seen no issues other than keeping the belt on at that rpm. Which was easily rectified (and not a huge issue anyway) with a guard I made for the tensioner.....now I have no tensioner either......problem super solved ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
#45
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The more you start to "feel" the internals of the trans on shifts, the less the clutch is working. My car is easier to shift at 8k rpm with the Mcleod then it was to shift with the stock clutch at 7k. 7400rpm wasnt that bad to shift the car when it was stock. But over time, adding more power just made it work less and less. Im sure synchro wear over time didnt help either.
#46
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm sure on a worn stock clutch.....even the replacement style Spec's. I actually broke something in my stock clutch. But it went before the ls6 was put in.
Mine actually got so bad I could dry rev it in gear sitting still and the car would try to move. The longer the sustained rpm was the harder it was to shift.
The more you start to "feel" the internals of the trans on shifts, the less the clutch is working. My car is easier to shift at 8k rpm with the Mcleod then it was to shift with the stock clutch at 7k. 7400rpm wasnt that bad to shift the car when it was stock. But over time, adding more power just made it work less and less. Im sure synchro wear over time didnt help either.
#47
#49
10 Second Club
#53
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
my clutch was sticking to the floor after all of those mods. If i wound out a gear to right before I shifted it... but didnt pull the shift and just put the clutch in, the clutch pedal wouldnt come back up on its own. I would have to pull it back myself. Replaced the clutch... never again. Do you have any idea how much the factory line would have to swell to not push the clutch pedal back up?
#54
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
my clutch was sticking to the floor after all of those mods. If i wound out a gear to right before I shifted it... but didnt pull the shift and just put the clutch in, the clutch pedal wouldnt come back up on its own. I would have to pull it back myself. Replaced the clutch... never again. Do you have any idea how much the factory line would have to swell to not push the clutch pedal back up?