Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

Lol I can accept it just fine, I was just asking out of curiosity. I actually bought my car because I like the way it looks. As a matter a fact, I think the aggressive look of the ws6 is on par as being up to date with the modern vehicles, but that's just imo.

From the sounds of it, the ls1 does need more from the statement you just made. That being said, it does have less HP so it's understandable. I would say though that if the cars are equal power, even if it takes an ls1 a cam or heads, then no feelings should be hurt, right?

I like the new coyote's and I sure didn't want to cause a debate on who's faster, I just wanted to know what I needed, if anything to make my car a good run for a bolt-on 5.0 lol. I want the car I have over anything new, so if it isn't as fast then that's ok in my book.

Mongoose350

iTrader: (1)

The whole 5.bro vs LS1 debate is this. 1/2 on either side have no idea wtf is true or false, they simply agree with the brand they support. The other 1/2 refuse to understand a simple fact. It is a fact that the 5.0 SHOULD be superior to an LS1. It was designed with 15 years or so of advanced tech. To deny this is insane, no exception. But they refuse for various reasons.

The 5.0 guys won't admit that the LS1 is still a damn fine engine. theres likely many reasons why, from years of being subpar to it, too thinking by getting a 5.0 will give them the advantage, then still losing to one. They also down play there mods to a huge degree. Claiming to have "bolt on's only, factory sealed engine." Yet fail to mention the thousands spent on suspension mods, and near gutted interiors.

The LS1 crowd tends to forget, or simply doesn't realize that they have over a decade of research, development, and testing that has built a huge aftermarket. This allows the LS1 to see amazing results with few mods.

Then you get the bad examples on both sides. LS1's with 24x duration, 62x lift cams and stock 241 heads and open headers that run near stock or slower ET's, but sound mean as ****. 5.0's with Boss intakes shifting at 6500 RPM and wondering why there slower than before. And both sides love to use these examples against each other.

Moral of the story, people are ******* stupid. Do your homework, have fun, and don't be a prideful dick and just give credit where credit is due. /rant

NSO

^It's simpler than that actually. The 5.0 has a 75whp advantage and a 3400-3600 pound curb weight. It's the equivalent of putting a stock LS3 in a fourth gen and then running against a stock LS1-powered fourth gen. The results would be roughly the same. The LS1 is (by far) outmatched. Period.

When you compare apples to apples the 5.0 has a big advantage.

Mongoose350

iTrader: (1)

This as well, I just didn't feel like typing a novel.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

I may be around 390rwhp through an auto and if they're almost 400rwhp bone stock (assuming they are underrated), then I would say the ls1 isn't really that outmatched. I didn't know that they put down that much at the wheels and thought that I was making more hp than them was the reason I won. If that is true, then the one in this video should be a little over 400whp having exhaust and it was getting pulled pretty decent. Would it be fair to assume that it would have been a closer race if my car had 30-40rwhp less with only 350-360rwhp?

NSO

Not quite 400, average is ~370whp on a dynojet.

I would expect your car to walk a light bolt-on 5.0 with ease. With a mid 230's cam and supporting mods (1-7/8" headers, SS3600 etc) your car should run hard. Bet it makes good power "under the curve" too. Gorgeous car btw.

98CayenneT/A

If I remember right I think it was around -500, I don't recall there 60'
This past Saturday at the track there was a guy with a circle d 4000 and tune only on et streets running
11.8@115
60' 1.68

Didn't see any stock 5.0's

98CayenneT/A

Correction, just checked, the d.a was around 300 ft.

NSO

They are definitely capable of consistent 12s in stock form. A lot of **** poor drivers tho just like at every track.

If I pull the trigger on a 5.0 after my GT is sold I'll do LT's/X-pipe, GT500 axle back, CAI of course and a small shot. I'd be happy with mid-high 11s N/A and mid to high 10s on the jug.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

Thanks man

I've not had it dyno'd because the tuner was in the middle of moving to a new location, so right now it is only street tuned. It seems to pull pretty decent, but with only having 2.73 gears the sotp feel doesn't feel like it does in my buddies with 3.42's. So I may be reaching for having 390rwhp, but I'm happy either way lol

That's pretty impressive! I wouldn't mind running a time like that.

NSO

What converter is your buddy running? Gears will make the converter feel tighter for around town driving (low rpm/part throttle) hence the better SOTP feel in your buddy's car. That's about it though. Contrary to what most think, gears don't do much in terms of track gains.

With your cam and supporting mods through a stock 10-bolt, I wouldn't be suprised if you've already reached your goal of 39Xwhp. Actually, I'd be suprised if it wasn't making at least that on a dynojet.

I'd suggest installing a good 4" merge and cut-out on that TSP y-pipe too.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

He was running a yank 3600 but now he's boosted so he has a vigilante 3200.....pulls really good lol. I've been thinking about an electric cutout for that, but wasn't sure how much gains would be over the borla with the plate out, bypassing the muffler?

Do you think there's gains on changing to a different merge? Either way I will probably end up going with a cutout just because of the police. It's pretty loud right now with just a custom plate with a 3/4" hole. I would be happy with 39xrwhp, the tuner said this setup is usually anywhere from 390-405rwhp.

Mongoose350

iTrader: (1)

Shorter gears have more feeling, longer gears will dyno higher tho, most often.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

I'd like to see what my numbers are, but I'm more interested in seeing how it does at the track. I really don't know what to expect. I'm hoping for low 12's, but thinking in reality I may only get 12.5's.

NSO

Not only will it pick up power but you will also get rid of the annoying rasp that Y-pipe setups are known for. IIRC, I believe the TSP Y reduces to 2.5" on the outlet side to mate with the factory exhaust. I'd recommend a Flowmaster 4" merge with a 4" cut-out reduced to a 3" then to your existing Borla. You could leave the full block-off plate in the Borla when you dont want to be too loud, then open up the cut-out when you want to make noise. And pick up decent power across the board.

A single 4" exhaust will support as much power as you can throw at it. Just something to think about.

I found this thread. Plenty more like it. Read up!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...view-vids.html

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

I want to get it purely off this guys quote lol.
I guess I'm going to price that merge and see what electric cutouts work best. I've read where some people have had problems with some brands where they stop working in the first 6-8 months. You know of any good ones?

NSO

None of them have a perfect track record. I've heard of motor failure in both QTP and DHL. QTP a bit more common though.

On my Formula I had a manual cut-out that stayed open virtually 24/7.

trez28

Raced a 2012 6sd coyote in my 2000 a4 convertible and he pulled me by a cars length. This was from a dig till about 120. A bolt on ls1 should take a coyote or a ms6 with a good driver and no convertible top.

trez28

And i also just bought my car 3 weeks ago so I'm probably not launching it the best it could be,....my car is 100% stock as far as i can tell. He also sounded like it had exhaust.... I was actually really excited but nervous about racing him but even though I took my first loss i learned those coyotes are by no means invincible, they're basically the ls1 of this time😀

OneSlowV

iTrader: (2)

Only 5.0s that make around 400 rwhp would be a tune and cat delete car. No stock 5.0 makes near that about 370 is the norm. Idk about the new ones though.