necrocannibal

iTrader: (5)

Ok I finally got my 408 back and have been breaking it in. These are the mods : 408 Stroker Iron block with Eagle forged crank, forged Diamond Pistons, forged Eagle rods, 234/242 .595/.610 114+4 cam, LS6 Intake, Absolute Speed Stage 2 heads milled .030 running right around 11 to 1 compression. Shaner S2 TB, SLP lid, ported MAF, Hooker Longtubes, Custom 3" Y pipe into stock intermediate pipe through a Flowmaster out to stock pipes, Spec Stage 5 clutch, B & M Ripper Shifter, TSP mail order tune.

Ok the other car is the same year and has a Lid, FTRA, Spec Stage 3 clutch and 4.10s.

We went from about 50 mph in second gear and to my surprise we were pretty much side by side. We did this several times and would stay that way until he had to shift into 5th because of the gears and I was still running in 4th. I am totally in shock about what happened and I am now looking for answers. Granted this said car is sort of a freak, pulls 110-111 mph with those mods, but come on I have ALOT more than he does. Could my restrictive exhaust be causing that much of a power loss? I wouldnt think it would be that much, hell I am missing a good amount of something.

I know everyone is going to ask so the motor and cltuch both have about 400 miles on them and this is the first time I have gotten into like that. It feels like a freaking monster when you just barely push the pedal in, it will break the tires loose at 1/4 throttle. But when you get into it all the way it just doesnt go as hard as you would think. (Example) If 0% throttle is 1 and 100% throttle is 10 on a scale of 1-10 then 1/4 throttle feels like 8 and full throttle feels like 10. Does that make sense? If it would jump in acceleration from 1/4 to full throttle as much as it does from idle to 1/4 throttle it would be a beast but it doesnt. Another thing it has done is when I will go to take off it will sputtere like it doesnt want to go and if you stay in the throttle for a second it will jump out of that and take off like normal, almost like there is no spark and then all of a sudden there is. I am starting to get fed up with this car and its starting to break me. (Little bit of history) I bought this car brand new and never could get it to go any faster than 13.78 @ 103 mph stock. The fastest it would go with the LS1 block with 224/114 cam, Hooker Longtubes through a cut out was 12.87 @ 110 mph and it only did that once as the rest of the runs were 13.2ish @ 108-109. I got tired os dealing with it and turned to the juice and sprayed a 150 shot on it. MAde good power and ran ok, would trap 122 mph like that. Well my noid stuck open on me one day and here we are a few months after that happened. I am beginning to think this car has a cuse or something on it and it doesnt matter what I do or how much $$$ I spend on it it isnt going to go any faster than stock LS1s N/A.


So does anyone have any ideas here? I actually have this on video and as soon as I can get it up I will so you can see what I am talking about.

chrdij

iTrader: (1)

I am guessing the mail order tune is holding you back, or the guy was spraying the hell out of it! I am getting the 408 iron block as well with about the same setup here soon. BTW I would double check that tune

necrocannibal

iTrader: (5)

Positve that there was no spray, he is a pretty good friend of mine and he wouldnt lie about what he has done. I am going to get it dyno tuned as soon as I can but could it really be making that much of a difference?

KCamaro

um... well... **** yes it could be making that much of a difference. Get it tuned and im quite sure you will be MUCH happier with what you've got

elderon

Mail order tunes aren't always very reliable. Every car is different. You didn't mention what gears you have either. I'm assuming you have stock 3:42's?

necrocannibal

iTrader: (5)

Yeah stock ones. That shouldnt have mattered, I should be making a good 100 rwhp more than him.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

Not if you are not tuned.. You also have to remember gearing can make up for horsepower to a certain extent. Also, what is your raceweight and what is his..?

chetyg

wayne #1 kenny's car is a freaking beast for as little mods as his car has
#2 running through stock exhaust KILLED you those big cubes need to breath
#3 a good dyno tune will really benifit you
#4 motor prolly needs to be broke in some more it should get alot stonger as mileage increases.
dont worry youll get it worked out and youll be killing every car in sight! if ya need anything lemme know.
cya
chet

ZULater01

iTrader: (1)

Alright, I'm the owner of the 02 Z and like he said it has 4.10, SPEC Stage 3, Loudmouth, Lid, and Free Ram Air. He is right about low end, on low end that thing is AMAZINGLY Tourquey. I think that once he gets it tuned it will be a whole lot better. Wayne, How was when the cutout was off? My car traps 110-111 Like he said, highest is a 111.9, but I would think his car should be atleast a 118-120, And if it was now, He would have smoked me. About the Spraying comment....No yet.

z98

Flowmasters choke down a stock engine.

Why would you run them on yours?

That's probably 30 horsepower right there.

It costs stock LS1's 10!

Going to a nice catback/cutout could have big gains for you.

ZULater01

iTrader: (1)

Horsepower TV just put a Flowmaster Catback and Lid on their 99 SS and gained 19 RWHP...

ChevySPEED

Get some high-flowing exhaust and get it dyno-tuned and your car should be a beast. Run with E.T. Streets

greentahoe

iTrader: (2)

When I put my blower on and installed my mailorder tune, it detonated so badly it sounded like the motor was coming apart. When we dyno/ widebanded it after some initial adjustments (I wasnt going to put it on a dyno with it detonating so badly) it only made 250rwhp. IT was pig rich and didnt have enough timing. Anyway we got near another 50rwhp with tuning. We modded the stock airbox and got another 2# and near 30rwhp. We are expecting another 25rwhp with the LT headers. This is with what started out at 5# and is now 7# and no intercooler.
Point is
Its amazing how much power a good tune will make.
Restrictions in the intake and exhaust can rob you of damn near all the power you "should" be making.

Sprayed1998

iTrader: (10)

Get Dynoed, only way to tell whether or not it is your poor driving or your cars poor performance.

BigBronco

iTrader: (2)

Like others stated, a very good TUNE goes a LONG way. You need to get best flowing exhaust as well. But it starts with a very good header, and i do not mean mac's or Pacesetter. go with hooker, Grotts, or kooks. they are worth the money in how well they flow. A good catback like borla, corsa, magnaflow or a custom true dual will be your best bet to go with or even just a simple cut out.

Mail order tunes are ****, so do not work with those, they usually make your car run way lean or too rich. just have it dynoed and then tuned at a local shop with HP tuners or ls1 edit. Good luck with your car and just let the thing breathe.


From the list he has said, i will say the car is not making no where near what it CAN be making. And for them putting a flowmaster cat back on the car on horsepower TV, that is a bunch of ****, they are just Sponsor pumpers and nothing more. They blow more **** then a two dollar japanese *****. Just because it is on TV does not make it the best


Gray

silverbeast

iTrader: (16)

they put a throttle body on there too. when i saw the choke master going on i was like noooooo! oh they put the cold air kit on there also. i dont think it comes w/ the lid, does it?

BigBronco

iTrader: (2)

yes, the SLP flow pac does come with a lid on it!


Gray

ZULater01

iTrader: (1)

BTW Guys the Video is up now...Just trying to get it hosted.

black00TA

iTrader: (3)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/street-racing-kill-stories/177993-00ta-vs-rowdyws6.html

i had a similar outcome with this SOM ws6 that was VERy beefy, and i walked him,
i have 4.10 aswell

ZULater01

iTrader: (1)

Go here for video...Its the 1st race.ZULater01 v. RedReaper