JC316

iTrader: (1)

I've ran a bunch of my mustangs, just not that one. Crappy 4th gear.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

How about we post this over in a section where actual people can give real experience on what they have seen with gear changes with stalls higher than 3600? I'm willing to put a lot of money that I am 100% right on cars less than 500rwhp, wanna throw some cash up?

A higher gear is designed to get you into the powerband faster, right? So please tell me how you are going to get into the powerband faster than a stall that only drops to 5100rpms with a 2.73 gear? Please explain? Like I said, you have no clue what you're talking about. I have actually ran my car at the track stalled with 2.73's and then swapped to 3.42's. So I am dead set that everything that everyone tried to tell me before, is dead fact! No better data than what I have, period. If you cannot except it, then you need to open your mind man. Do you seriously think I am going to sit on this site and spew bullshit lies about something I am claiming to be fact? If you need a speedo pull to prove it then I can post that for you too.

Also, you do understand that Yank has different models of their stall converters, right? Just like any other stall company, the different models are designed to do different things... like have different rpm drops on shifts. I almost feel like I am shooting rubber ducks in a tub. Please research more before you want to debate this anymore, please!

Edit:^^^

As much as I hate to, I have to disagree with you. Cars at our bolt on or cammed power levels will be lucky to see .1 tenth in the ¼ mile. I honestly would like to start a thread so everyone can see that this is true so people don't waste their money because they were too bold headed to listen like me.


Anyone who has been stalled and changed gears after the fact can 100% confirm what I am saying. If you haven't done so, then please don't speculate. That's what I did before mine and wish I had my money back. I now have my 2.73 gears back!

Edit: My money is green and I stand by my bet on the gear change. Anyone who wants to lay the cash out, I'm game! Bet is that gear changes on a stalled car 3600 or higher is at best .1 tenth, very rarely .2 tenths (very), but most likely see less than .1 tenth to a draw. That's fact and it's all over this site and other sites. Just do a simple search.

JC316

iTrader: (1)

You might be right, I am very weak on stall converters since 95% of my cars have been sticks. I have searched and I can't verify it. Most people talk about the rear gears changing the load and stall speeds of the converters. Most people run both a rear gear and a stall.

I find it difficult to verify and I have never done it personally. I actually do want to know 100% since I am building my first stalled auto car, and I was planning gears too.

If I can't get a definitive answer, I may go all mythbusters on it myself, do the stall first and then the gears.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

I think it's a pretty good experiment to do if already going to change them. The car will be really consistent, so you'll be able to gauge the times pretty easily. Mine didn't seem to run any different as long as the da was within 500 of each pass. Does the car have 3.23's in it now? What gears will you be going to? It does suck that you don't get the performance from the gear change, but it does feel like the car is faster. Even my buddies thought that it was going to run better at the track, but I'm guessing it was because the 2.73:s have a deceiving feel to them.

JC316

iTrader: (1)

Haven't looked yet. Probably a 3.08 one legger, but it might be a 3.27 trac loc.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

I was going to put 3.08's in when I went boost, but I still had the 2.73 rear end and just threw it back in. I'd say going from 3.08's to 3.73's would be pretty close to my swap from 2.73's to 3.42's, difference wise. Do you know what stall you're going to run yet?

98CayenneT/A

I absolutely get what you're saying and absolutely agree for the most part. I just find it hard to believe with such a drastic gear change like 2.73's to 3.73's is not worth anything. ( Not saying you are wrong...) with that being said I was a rookie bitch that now wishes I had my longer gears back.

I think you should upgrade your rear and sell me your 2.73 10 bolt

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

I could possibly see a .1 tenth gain going from 2.73 to 3.73's, but that's just a guess. I honestly thought all the people hat told me I would t gain nothing from my gear swap were full of poo... I found out that I was haha.

Believe it or not, you're not the first person to ask for my 10 bolt lol. I may have to figure something out pretty soon, because I just got my 6.0 together last night and will throw it in this weekend. I don't know if I'll leave it at 550-600rwhp since it's just a gen 4, or throw meth on it and see what it can make while I'm forging my other. But if I do that, I'll likely start worrying about the rear end. I think it'll live a while at 600, but idk how much after that.

My wife already isn't happy that I wasted the money on the 6.0 to forge my other, but I'm not sure what direction I'm going and I wanted to drive the car instead of look at it. A rear end may send her over the top lol

NateLS1Mustang

iTrader: (2)

Smh at myself. You started on your 6.0 after I started on my 6.0, but you're already finished? Damnit! Lol.

98CayenneT/A

You have the motor tore apart that came in the camaro you bought?

NateLS1Mustang

iTrader: (2)

I have the top end off at the moment. Motor is still in the car. Need to install LS9 gaskets and do the cam install while the heads are off as well.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I finally got the crank back early last week and ordered the rod & main bearings. They had the crank for 3 weeks, so I couldn't order them until I knew what they turned the crank to. I was beginning to wonder if they lost it lol

408-99-f

I am going to the dyno on Friday, and after doing some research I was going to send my converter out to lower my stall speed,I have 323's. But I needed new tires so I ordered tires a inch taller. Its my first turbo car, totaly diffrent animal lol.
Then Friday night I'm going to hit the track if weather is nice.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

Yeah that's what I need to do next. I talked to Yank when I first boosted it and they said for now at my power level that I can get by with the converter I have, but recommended a 3200 stall in a different model. They said once I start making more power then it's an absolute that I need to change or it will start blowing through the converter. My buddy has a Vigilante converter and they restalled it from a 3600 to a 3200 for his turbo'd car too. So I'm guessing 3200 must be the ave on boosted cars. I haven't researched that area enough to know why, but I'm sure efficiency & slippage plays a part in it.

Do you have a cage in your car or are you just going to run until they kick you out? They're definitely a different animal, especially with all that torque instantly, it's crazy feeling vs being na. I'm interested to see what you put down and what it runs at the track, so I'll be waiting to see how you do. Good luck!

ZNix

iTrader: (1)

Hit the Gen4 with boost man! They have the good rods. Shouldn't be a problem into the mid 700s.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

Mid 700's is with meth isn't it? I haven't read up on it much and this was a impulse decision tbh. I was kind of doing research for a build and I found this gen 4 long block for $450 with 2 spun rod bearings, so I had to get it. I was thinking on 93 pump that it was good for 600-650rwhp, but I've read so much lately, that I get things mixed up.

I've been tossing the idea around of just holding off on forging it and seeing how this one holds out. It seems that a lot of people are getting good power out of them, so I kind of want to push it. The more people I talk to, the more I think I may just go ahead and buy a meth kit and run this motor.

Anyone know the weight difference between an iron gen4 6.0 and a ls1? I've seen 65-80lbs, and if that's the case, I'll have to throw my stock springs back on the front.

408-99-f

No cage, hopefully they don't kick me out. Last year I went on one of the last street nights, and there was a guy with a new Audi running mid/high 10' and he kept going around. Made like 10 passes.
This is if my converter holds up. I recently lost the front pump in my trans, had it rebuilt. 50 miles later it lost the pump again. I was going to have my converter gone through but to get it back before my dyno/retune the shipping was going to be $200 each way!
So I know I am really rolling the dice here, and might get flamed. But my dad gave me a new TCI super street fighter converter I am putting in on Tuesday. It has the same stall speed as mine. I have had really good luck with them. And I call them and the guy said it's good to 650 wheel, which is technically the same level as the one I had.
I am just trying to get through a season or 2 (short seasons up here). I am saving up and doing all the research I can to put a 6 gen a8 in my car. With a manuel tune and a stand alone controller.
Which I am hoping comes out soon, it's sophisticated but I hope it's a popular swap soon

JC316

iTrader: (1)

2800 stall seems to give the best performance for my particular application. Basically my plan looks like this.

1997 Thunderbird LX. Swapping in a Mark VIII engine, stalled auto, 4.10 gears, 3" exhaust, UDP's, tune and a serious diet. Basically trying for 12's under $2k with ford's heaviest platform.

ZNix

iTrader: (1)

You would need something more than 93 I think, depending on the turbo. I just meant the motor itself can handle quite a bit. So give it hell! I think Denmah is making mid 700s on a gen 4 6.0 in his truck.

NateLS1Mustang

iTrader: (2)

He's making 796whp right now running out of converter.