Dont want to start any flame wars, and I love the F-bodies (used to own a 95' Trans Am Fully loaded) But i had some interesting experiences with the mustang crowd. Most were scared to race (I never raced a GT on the street other than a 89', due to the fact that they were all scared to go at it with a TA) The 89' had 14.0 timeslips to back it up and we raced from 20 to 55mph (due to the fact that i knew they guy and he knew i had 2.73's and and A4 and he gave me a fair shot with the rolling start) I BARELY pulled on him (mabey 1/3 car max). HE had bolt ons and 3.55's and a T5. I was impressed. Fast Foreward.....Raced and LS1 Ta A4 with mods (the guy sandbagged and said just a chip...I could smell that gutted cat though). The results? Rolling at 55 he destroyed me. Stop to 60 he won by 1.5 cars 0-the end of first gear, I took him by about 2/3 car. If i had had 3.23's i think it would have been a different game slightly. Fast foreward...Sold the Trans Am and bought an 88 5.0, bought a new motor (rated at 340hp/340tq) and am currently installing 4.10's and a Lentech AOD. Stiffening the unibody, and converting to mass air metering. The whole point of this post: I stumbled across a "F-body vs. Stang" post (some guy ...Bullet was being an Idiot and giving 'Stangers a bad name *apologizes for the Idiot and shows him back to his village.* You guys are dead on, an F-body Ls1 will take ANY stock mustang Gt by about 2-3 cars in the 1/4 on average. Here is my point for the Stangs though...my 5.0 TOTAL PORJECT is costing me around $8,000 (that includes the car). For 8,000 I should put about 275 hp and 275 TQ to the ground...less than a 6M F-body...but i also weigh about 400 lbs less...so for power to weight, lets adjust it..275+40hp and 400 lbs= F-body weight and 305 hp/tq RWHP. Take into consideration the drag radials, 4.10 gears, and Lentech Auto and i should post 1/4's in the 12's. To get my F-body in that area (initial car cost $4,500) I would need gears $200 a computer re-programmer $300 (we are up to 5K) that would have me in the mid 13's I then would need headers and catback (another 500 or so for 5500) Also a shift kit $100. Then i would need an aluminum shaft and a series 2 carrier for my gear swap being as i was originally with 2.73's and those two would run about 500$ combined (up to 6K). At that point i would be in the low 13's, add a stall and 400$ and i MIGHT break 12's, but i would still have a Transmission and engine with over 170K miles on it and this is opposed to the 'Stang i bought which will have an entirely brand new powertrain, and much stronger 8.8 rear end. OR i could have bought an Ls1 for 12K... The point is, stock a mustang really does suck the big one (but not as much as the new GTO, who the HELL decided a chevy cavalier with RWD and an LS6 was a statement????!!!!). But if you want to go 12's a 5.0 Fox is THE CHEAPEST way to get there. I read a post about a guy who got into the 12's for less than 3K INCLUDING THE CAR with a 5.0 Fox. The F-bodies will handle better, but that can be fixed for another $5-700. So while yes, in stock for the Ls1's are king, I still like my lowly modded stang. Also, for the record, a stock 04 GT will run between 13.8-14.2 (that was a point of contention in the other post) A stock Ls1 6M will run 13.2-13.6

 

just taggin along. I want to see what the "brains" of the outfit have to say.

pmh

 

That's a big *** block of text. Maybe I'll get around to it another time.

 

A 14.0 would definitely take out every single GT EVER

 

I agree with you that Mustangs are cheap to modify. My best friend and I are currently getting his 89 Coupe finished. We just put a 351 Windsor in it. He has less in it than I do in my SS or Vette.

 

The aftermarket is crazy for fox body 5.0 mustangs.

Good luck with it.

 

Just thought I would throw in my $.02

The price advantage of a 89 Fox Body, is about the same advantage a LS1 F-body has over a 03/04 Cobra. Think about it. In the end its just the same arguement that everyone has for how cheap a car is to modify. Not to mention one of the major mods you listed was the Fox body being 400 pounds lighter. Weight reduction is free [May not look great but it is] well to a point it is. So a F-body can play those games too, then it could put in a nice cam mods for a shot of nitrious and 4.10's and be in the 10's [Ask Hot Rod, they can show you].

Now am I saying you are wrong about this? No, not at all. Fox Bodys are very cheap, with a huge aftermarket. I just think the Power for the money thing, depends on what you look at, or what look you want.

 

I hope sincerly your talking about an LT1. If I had that many mods on an ls1 and wasnt running low 12s I'd kick myself in the nutts and buy a civic.

 

paragraphs are your friend....

people are taking ls1's into the low 13s before all this work. i'll give it to ya that you got the 2.73 auto... but i got a 98 m6, w/o even a lid that went 13.4, someone else could have squeezed another .1 or .2 out of her, because i just got thing.

all in all though very true, but break it up a little, it was hard to stay on the same line.

 

Exactly what I was thinking. With only a Stall, an A4 LS1 can break 12's.

 

Why do people insist on posting this **** in the street racing section?

This has little to nothing to do with street racing. The focus is totally on something else.

 

u talk about putting drag radials and 4.10s on ur fox body to run 12s, yet when u talk about an LT1 or LS1 u dance around these mods with computer tuning, and shift kit and headers etc.
in reality if u get a pair of slicks or drag radials, some 4.10s and a stall on an ls1 u will be running 12s all day, let alone if u have exhaust, headers, lid and a tune (11s!!!!!!!!!)

 

 

For those that spend stupid amounts on money on lt1s and get no where..what the hell is your problem??

250.00 (Gm847 or CC306..take your pick)
150.00 set of used shortys (I had BBK)
150.00 (cost of tuning cable and software)
300.00 (sticky tires..DRs)

Add a set of sticky tires and some minor weight removal (spare tire/jack, back seats if you feel like it) and you should see 12s NO PROBLEM. The car should already be a high 13/low 14 second car at ~100mph...(my auto ran 14.10 @ 97mph on 2.1 60ft bone stock in mid june heat. Its not like getting to mid to low 13s in an LT1 takes much more than tire, cai and headers... Its been done. I just threw in the cam/programming to ensure victory. I can get it done for under a grand.

 

At the end of the day your cheap 12 sec. Mustang is still, well, a fox-body Stang. For a couple grand more you can have a 12 year newer F-Body with better technology, more reliabe, better options etc...

 

Where do you get these prices from?
I look through the classifieds every weekend and a a4 98 Z can be had for about 6 grand every other week!
Forget a stall, just get a transbrake and dr's or slicks and you've got a 12 second car.
BTW a 95 is an LT-1, which is WAY different from an LS-1!

 

I wouldnt say better technology. They use alot of the same technology just with a few improvements. Hell a 351 windsor will hang with a stock ls1.

 

 

A few years ago when I more active in the racing I saw an LS1 SS run low 12s with slicks & skinnies, Draglites, headers, a cutout and a converter. He might've dropped the sway bar but I'm not sure. I'm fairly certain he had the stock 3.23s in it.

 

I don't think there even is a forum for that monologue....and for good reason


That was a lot of reading.....and nothing of any great interest was conveyed:

95lt1 > 89 5.0....yup
ls1ta > 95lt1......yup

go build your 8k mustang and come race my 8k z28, then we'll have something worthy of the "kill stories" section