do yall consider a 3000gt vr4 rice
03-19-2006, 12:30 PM
#61
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Originally Posted by UL LOSE
i own a 91,running 15psi. Everything stock,just upped the boost. Runs very strong. Will walk a stock ls1 easy.
03-19-2006, 07:44 PM
#62
Originally Posted by TORNATIC!!
Your's might walk a stock LS1 easy but a stock 3000 GT VR-4 will not walk a well driven LS1 F-Bod. The Turbo 3000 GT VR-4 ran similar times with the Supra stock.
From a roll your right a stock ls1 properly driven will walk a stock 3s. From a dig its all about if the ls1 will have enough time to catch up from the 3s's launch
03-19-2006, 09:41 PM
#63
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Originally Posted by markp03
they can be quick...but from what i heard they get expensive to mod...and don't you have to totaly redo the fuel system to get more then 15-16 psi from the stock turbos? that fact right there keeps most of the non heavly modded vr4's from being very fast
- As for fuel system, it's like any other turbo vehicle, or yours for that matter. You add bigger injectors ( which you need for the massive increase in air you're adding when you upgraed turbos ) you need something to control them....
I would consider my car NON heavily modded....
- Stock Cams
- Stock Heads
- Stock Internals
( Stock Motor with BOLT ONS )
I am trapping 115, and shakedown pass spinning out of the hole netted me a 12.23. It's good for 11's with a launch with some traction.
I've pulled on several LS1's around the area. From a 40 mph roll, My friends Heads . Cam. 4.10 gear 6spd I pulled pretty good on 16psi while tuning. ( now it's even better ) he trapped 113mph. So on the street, it's still tough. AWD from a slow roll rules.
So I'm not going to sit here and yell at anyone, but frankly, don't be stupid if you don't know anything about them.
Turbos = 900 bucks lightly used ( 1300 new )
Injectors = 250
Fuel Pump = 100
E-Manage Fuel Management = 350
Clutch = 500
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And that's LIGHTLY modded... These are all bolt on items....
2500 bucks and I'm running flat 12's and soon 11's with new tires... I'd say that's pretty decent. No rear end upgrade needed, no transmission upgrade needed, etc..... no motor beef up needed. That was on 17psi. With an EBAY FMIC core and some piping, I'll turn the boost up as high as it can go ( on these turbos, around 23-25psi ) and run C16 and see what I can do.
Last edited by StealthXtreme; 03-19-2006 at 09:46 PM.
03-19-2006, 10:07 PM
#64
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03-20-2006, 12:20 AM
#65
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ok. to set things straight. i have a 92 VR-4. im running 12.76. all i have is a boost controller and gutted cats. thats at 15 PSI on the stock 9b turbos. the stock turbos can produce up to 22 PSI if there is no waste gate. the stock timing can sometimes handle this, sometimes not. the tranny will hold up just fine to just about anything. the transfer case, dont even get me started. lets just say, i could build one better with legos. vr-4s are extremely cheap to mod and you can pull some insane times out of them. wieght def. is a down fall. i have raced an ls1 from a roll and a stop and won both times, but i do give credit to the one from the roll. it was extremely close and i had to seriously give it everything it had. 3000GT's in no way are rice. a 3000GT had all sorts of luxury items. it has climate control, electrical lumbar, power windows and locks. powered seats. steering wheel music controlls. electronic controlled suspension. active areo. active exauhst. all wheel steering. all wheel drive. fixed 4 cylinder calipers.
it truely is an amazing car and extemely easy to pull some sick times out of them. the ride is VERY smooth, but when switch into stiff mode, it will not leave the ground for anything. it hugs turns very well and i will always own one of these cars.
it truely is an amazing car and extemely easy to pull some sick times out of them. the ride is VERY smooth, but when switch into stiff mode, it will not leave the ground for anything. it hugs turns very well and i will always own one of these cars.
03-20-2006, 12:30 AM
#67
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engine and gear boxes arent the same.
the engines are just fine and i have seen a 99 vr-4 have 600 AWHP on stock internals on an engine. i had a non-turbo that ran great and had 190,000 miles on it. never had any problem with it.
the engines are just fine and i have seen a 99 vr-4 have 600 AWHP on stock internals on an engine. i had a non-turbo that ran great and had 190,000 miles on it. never had any problem with it.
03-20-2006, 07:15 AM
#68
Why would a VR4 be rice? They are great looking cars and are quick right out of the box. The stock turbos are tiny, and so is the stock fuel system so it kinda limits the actual "bolt-on" performance. Once you get past that the stock motor has been proven to handle 600+awhp reliably.
03-20-2006, 07:23 AM
#69
Originally Posted by GMmexican
arnt those engines really unreliable? and i heard vr-4's came with bad gear boxes?
03-20-2006, 10:15 AM
#70
Someone is in the process of testing an upgraded transfer case.
Stated above that the stock turbos can do 22psi, that is a useless fact as they become inefficient at anything much above 15 psi.
The problem with the stock motors is the bottem end; they are prone to spinning bearings. The other problem is the top end
They are run off a timing belt that needs to be changed ( its actually the tensioner thats the problem IMO ) about every 60k miles or you risk the chance of jumping timing and F#cking your heads
Stated above that the stock turbos can do 22psi, that is a useless fact as they become inefficient at anything much above 15 psi.
The problem with the stock motors is the bottem end; they are prone to spinning bearings. The other problem is the top end
They are run off a timing belt that needs to be changed ( its actually the tensioner thats the problem IMO ) about every 60k miles or you risk the chance of jumping timing and F#cking your heads
03-20-2006, 03:43 PM
#71
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http://videos.streetfire.net/video/F...1485DF8E99.htm
mitsubishi GTO 140mph on a tight lane.... my car
mitsubishi GTO 140mph on a tight lane.... my car
03-20-2006, 05:48 PM
#73
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Originally Posted by neodamonkey
The other problem is the top end They are run off a timing belt that needs to be changed ( its actually the tensioner thats the problem IMO ) about every 60k miles or you risk the chance of jumping timing and F#cking your heads
They are run off a timing belt that needs to be changed ( its actually the tensioner thats the problem IMO ) about every 60k miles or you risk the chance of jumping timing and F#cking your heads
03-20-2006, 07:41 PM
#74
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http://videos.streetfire.net/search/...24A7D27C7C.htm
lol.
Honestly though, if I could drop an LS1 in this thing without major $$ and headaches, I would in a heartbeat.
lol.
Honestly though, if I could drop an LS1 in this thing without major $$ and headaches, I would in a heartbeat.
