LG Motorsports allngn_c5 VS GT 500
#101
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Originally Posted by Pray
Now, on to the people that think traction equals less trap speed. How do you figure? If you can't go to WOT untill third gear because of tire spin then how are you going to be going faster at the 1/4 then if you can smack it off the get go. Some one explain that. That would be like getting on the dyno and going half throttle and expecting higher numbers. Now if you are dead hooking and bogging so bad the car can't recover then I can under stand. You need some slip to keep the rpms up if you don't have the power to pull out of the hole. But we are talking 60ft times in the 1.4-6 range with that. I love the people that say putting DR's or MT's on a car will slow it down. It just doesn't make sense.
Brett
Brett,
I'm not sure about your drag racing experience, but better traction normally results in lower trap speeds. I'm not sure I can explain why, but each individual car will almost always trap lower with a better 60' but ET better. That's experience, but someone other than me will have to explain why. I'll see if i can find an answer that makes sense.
#103
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Originally Posted by Pray
Now, on to the people that think traction equals less trap speed. How do you figure? If you can't go to WOT untill third gear because of tire spin then how are you going to be going faster at the 1/4 then if you can smack it off the get go. Some one explain that. That would be like getting on the dyno and going half throttle and expecting higher numbers. Now if you are dead hooking and bogging so bad the car can't recover then I can under stand. You need some slip to keep the rpms up if you don't have the power to pull out of the hole. But we are talking 60ft times in the 1.4-6 range with that. I love the people that say putting DR's or MT's on a car will slow it down. It just doesn't make sense.
Brett
Brett
It becomes challenge to get the best ET when getting serious about drag racing, since ETs combined with reaction times win races, not trap speed.
Speed is a measure of the horsepower. 60' times are more a measure of torque and how well it can be applied to the track for traction.
It's not math, it's physics and the laws of motion that determine how it all works out. since force = mass x acceleration, the lower the mass, the easier it will be to accelerate it to a given speed. That's why you always hear so much about HP to weight ratios since the mass of the car affects the rolling resistance due to tire to track friction losses. The chassis setup for any given mass also greatly effects how well the static weight is tranferred from the front axle to the rear axle at the hit of the throttle. that's why so much time and money is spent on making the chassis work correctly to get the mass in motion as rapidly as possible without generating excess tire spin. Depending on the engine, you actually want some tire spin to keep from pulling the engine rpms down so much at the launch but you don't want so much spin that the traction fails and you get tire smoke . This is the balancing act between trap speed and 60'. In a drag race it's better to spin a little less, thus lower trap speed and a better ET.
In a perfect world you could hook up ALL the power (torque, HP) to the track and keep the engine RPMs perfectly in the power band. If this can happen, you would have the highest trap speed possible for your car AND the best ET. Unfortunately, nobody/nothing is perfect in this world.
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Maybe that helps...maybe not.
#104
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Originally Posted by necrocannibal
If you guys are spinning your tires that far then you need to not go to the track on bald *** tires. My SS at 650 rwhp would not spin the tires at the track that much.
And I'm sure you're not running street tires.
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We'll just have to wait and see what my car does with the DR's that should be getting sent to me soon. Traction should be greatly improved and I will try not to short shift as much. Definately going to stand on it until I am 100% sure I am past the end of the track. Don't want to let off 100 feet early. I now know there is plenty of time to stop. I was a little intimidated too my first time out. The 2 hour wait in between runs didn't help much either. Not trying to make excuses just pointing out my limited 1/4 mile experience. The only other time I was at a track was years ago in an AUTOMATIC. Later
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Keep in mind this wasn't a track visit that I was attempting to get 100% out of this car. I just wanted to get a feel for the track, and a good idea of what the car can and can't do. You could call it a series of shakedown runs. I also didn't want to break anything my first time out. I promise after the first run on the new DR's I will give it everything she has. Only driver error will keep me out of the mid 11's then.
#107
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for a point of reference...friend has a stock 02 Z06. Everything is Bone stock except for the varram intake. Stock tires, tune, pulley, etc. It ran a best of 1.70 short time, 12.0 at 117 mph at Muncie IN. on a test n tune night. He powershifted each gear and launched perectly. Same day another friend with 03 Z06 ran 12.5 at 114 (did no launch well or powershift). 02 Z06 driver can drive the 03 just as well as his car, so cars are the same in this instance. That's about 1/2 second with driver mod!
Just get some tires, and before you go to the track, always check things out like tire presure (front at 44 psi and rear at 30, never lower than 25 on plain ol radials, maybe 18-20 on drag radials), clean ain intake and filter, fresh plugs, etc.
Should run 11.6 at 124 I expect when you get it down to a 1.8 short time on the bfg's.
SDB
Just get some tires, and before you go to the track, always check things out like tire presure (front at 44 psi and rear at 30, never lower than 25 on plain ol radials, maybe 18-20 on drag radials), clean ain intake and filter, fresh plugs, etc.
Should run 11.6 at 124 I expect when you get it down to a 1.8 short time on the bfg's.
SDB
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Originally Posted by Pray
I don't want to steal this thread but I do want to answer some questions. I was putting down 465/445rw on the dyno when I ran those times. The car didn't even have a thousand miles on the motor yet. But at the track the car was in a whole other part of the VE/Spark/MAF table that we could not duplicate on the dyno due to no ram air effect. So the MAF was compensating/ was not tuned there and was running rich. I have my WB 02 hooked up now so the next time out I can see exactly what is going on. I am running a 6speed. An auto will always out ET a stick car but with less MPH. Thank the torque converter for that. This car has always hauled, at a slow track no less. All the other tracks around here are 2 tenths and 2 mph faster. They just require safety crap to run. When I was stock 340rw I ran 12.0's at 116. With 365rw I ran 11.8 at 118+, 385rw 11.5 at 120+ and 405rw I ran 11.3 at 123.7. All the times except the last were on street radials. The last was on BFG's. I can kind of drive the car though. I was cutting 1.7 60ft's on the steet radials. You usually can't hear me interrupt power on my shifts either. The car always dyno's low for the speeds. Maby we just have a tight dyno. I have another friend that has trapped almost 132 with less than 500rw. He is around 490 with a 408. Same track.
I forgot to add that I race the car the way I drive the car. I had 3/4 tank of gas and my tool box and misc work crap in the car when I ran 127 with all my other car related problems. I don't care what a preped car can run at the track. I only want to know what I am going to run when some one pulls up next to me on the street.
Brett
I forgot to add that I race the car the way I drive the car. I had 3/4 tank of gas and my tool box and misc work crap in the car when I ran 127 with all my other car related problems. I don't care what a preped car can run at the track. I only want to know what I am going to run when some one pulls up next to me on the street.
Brett
Yeah I have never ran my car at the track but the previous owner was having tranny and traction problems especially on the spray. I may never take it to the track because on mine the rear end is the weak link in the drivetrain. But DAMNNN!!! You sure can drive those times are amazing, we are talking about a C5 Z06 right? But I would think with DR's the car should be 10 second capable on the spray.
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The quicker you run (ET) the less time you have to get up to speed (trap)
I need to borrow some of you guys and just get a # in the 10's and that will be my last drag racing for the car! I would love to run DR's all summer long but they don't make them in 20 inch sizes.
I need to borrow some of you guys and just get a # in the 10's and that will be my last drag racing for the car! I would love to run DR's all summer long but they don't make them in 20 inch sizes.
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Originally Posted by SDB
Just get some tires, and before you go to the track, always check things out like tire presure (front at 44 psi and rear at 30, never lower than 25 on plain ol radials, maybe 18-20 on drag radials), clean ain intake and filter, fresh plugs, etc.
Should run 11.6 at 124 I expect when you get it down to a 1.8 short time on the bfg's.
SDB
#111
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04. I totaly agree with what you are saying. I was trying to say the same thing in a different language. If your chassis set up or tires are not up to par for the power you have and you can not go WOT from hit to quit then you will loose MPH. Spinning, letting off, spinning on shifts ect. If you can go WOT and the car bogs or you do not have enough power to pull the gears then you will loose MPH. That is all I was trying to say. You do need some tire spin to keep the RPM's up at the launch. You will usually only see a car loose MPH with traction in the 1.40-1.60 60ft range. That is where the fine balance of MPH to ET comes into play. So I agree that with ultimate traction you will have a quicker ET and loose MPH. But with marginal traction or none at all you are loosing both ET and MPH.
Doug. You will get it figured out and that car will run like a raped ape. Good luck with it. Keep us posted.
Brett
Doug. You will get it figured out and that car will run like a raped ape. Good luck with it. Keep us posted.
Brett
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I'll throw in my $.02
Good kill. Doesn't sound like it was stock but I doubt it had a pulley either.
Figure a stock GT500 will trap 112mph and as high as 116mph. Add a pulley and tune and that is usually, what? 100hp on that motor? With a pulley, it should be trapping near 120mph or higher. Your 120+mph trap speeds rock.
OP: 5th is an OD gear which means your rate of acceleration would drop off even more than 4th, a 1:1 ratio. So its possible if the car you're racing doesn't shift to an OD gear, it could close that gap. Bottom line - once shifting the 5th, the race s/b over and if it's not, it's too fast anyway for the street.
Good kill. Doesn't sound like it was stock but I doubt it had a pulley either.
Figure a stock GT500 will trap 112mph and as high as 116mph. Add a pulley and tune and that is usually, what? 100hp on that motor? With a pulley, it should be trapping near 120mph or higher. Your 120+mph trap speeds rock.
OP: 5th is an OD gear which means your rate of acceleration would drop off even more than 4th, a 1:1 ratio. So its possible if the car you're racing doesn't shift to an OD gear, it could close that gap. Bottom line - once shifting the 5th, the race s/b over and if it's not, it's too fast anyway for the street.