subframe connectors or shocks?
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
subframe connectors or shocks? Hey everyone I'm new here. I'm thinking about upgrading my suspension on my Z28, but I'm not sure where to start. For subframe connectors I'd probably go with the UMI 3-point bolt ins. How much of a difference does it make whether it's mild steel or chromoly? I found the UMI's for $240 with free shipping, chromoly is $100 extra. For shocks I've decided to go with Bilstein. Found them for $400. However I've read about how Sam Strano sells a set off his website that use different valving for the back shocks, does that make much of a difference realistically?
I'm not into crucial racing, but I do drive her pretty hard sometimes around the streets and I go to the track probably once every two or three months. I really wish I went more but I'm trying to save money at the moment. I realize the Koni SA are probably the best, but I don't have the money for something like that right now. I just want a noticable increase in handling and ride quality. I can feel the frame wanting to twist when I shift gears while I'm flooring it but not really bad. I'll be doing both eventually but I just figured I'd ask what I should do first?
Oh and another thing, I will not be lowering it ever. I already scrape enough going over speedbumps with those LT headers (actually i think it's the cats that are scraping). Don't know if this matters or not but I have the C5 Z06 style rims, 245/45/17 in the front and 275/40/18 in the back
I'm not into crucial racing, but I do drive her pretty hard sometimes around the streets and I go to the track probably once every two or three months. I really wish I went more but I'm trying to save money at the moment. I realize the Koni SA are probably the best, but I don't have the money for something like that right now. I just want a noticable increase in handling and ride quality. I can feel the frame wanting to twist when I shift gears while I'm flooring it but not really bad. I'll be doing both eventually but I just figured I'd ask what I should do first?
Oh and another thing, I will not be lowering it ever. I already scrape enough going over speedbumps with those LT headers (actually i think it's the cats that are scraping). Don't know if this matters or not but I have the C5 Z06 style rims, 245/45/17 in the front and 275/40/18 in the back
hmm i will be thinking of your exact same question in the spring. ive heard some good things about SFC and chasis flex. if you have alot of that id go with them. but if you want to take your car around some tight corners and whatnot. shocks first would be much more noticeable then SFC. or why not just save up alittle longer and get both 
Hey everyone I'm new here. I'm thinking about upgrading my suspension on my Z28, but I'm not sure where to start. For subframe connectors I'd probably go with the UMI 3-point bolt ins. How much of a difference does it make whether it's mild steel or chromoly? I found the UMI's for $240 with free shipping, chromoly is $100 extra. For shocks I've decided to go with Bilstein. Found them for $400. However I've read about how Sam Strano sells a set off his website that use different valving for the back shocks, does that make much of a difference realistically?
I'm not into crucial racing, but I do drive her pretty hard sometimes around the streets and I go to the track probably once every two or three months. I really wish I went more but I'm trying to save money at the moment. I realize the Koni SA are probably the best, but I don't have the money for something like that right now. I just want a noticable increase in handling and ride quality. I can feel the frame wanting to twist when I shift gears while I'm flooring it but not really bad. I'll be doing both eventually but I just figured I'd ask what I should do first?
Oh and another thing, I will not be lowering it ever. I already scrape enough going over speedbumps with those LT headers (actually i think it's the cats that are scraping). Don't know if this matters or not but I have the C5 Z06 style rims, 245/45/17 in the front and 275/40/18 in the back
I'm not into crucial racing, but I do drive her pretty hard sometimes around the streets and I go to the track probably once every two or three months. I really wish I went more but I'm trying to save money at the moment. I realize the Koni SA are probably the best, but I don't have the money for something like that right now. I just want a noticable increase in handling and ride quality. I can feel the frame wanting to twist when I shift gears while I'm flooring it but not really bad. I'll be doing both eventually but I just figured I'd ask what I should do first?
Oh and another thing, I will not be lowering it ever. I already scrape enough going over speedbumps with those LT headers (actually i think it's the cats that are scraping). Don't know if this matters or not but I have the C5 Z06 style rims, 245/45/17 in the front and 275/40/18 in the back
From what you've stated so far, shocks are much more useful for a first mod than the others. AFA feeling the frame twist, I'm sorry to say that that's probably sensing slop from more obvious problem areas than the monocoque itself (the suspension on your car is original and unchanged from the factory, right?). Also, you still can get more than decent handling on stock springs that are combined with proper shocks, swaybars and a few other mods.
Since you notice Sam Strano's info around here, you might want to give him a call for your needs. Once you tell him your expectations and you both discuss the possiblities, you can then see what you can use from there. He's also a UMI dealer as well.
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From: St.Charles MO
Hey everyone I'm new here. I'm thinking about upgrading my suspension on my Z28, but I'm not sure where to start. For subframe connectors I'd probably go with the UMI 3-point bolt ins. How much of a difference does it make whether it's mild steel or chromoly? I found the UMI's for $240 with free shipping, chromoly is $100 extra. For shocks I've decided to go with Bilstein. Found them for $400. However I've read about how Sam Strano sells a set off his website that use different valving for the back shocks, does that make much of a difference realistically?
I'm not into crucial racing, but I do drive her pretty hard sometimes around the streets and I go to the track probably once every two or three months. I really wish I went more but I'm trying to save money at the moment. I realize the Koni SA are probably the best, but I don't have the money for something like that right now. I just want a noticable increase in handling and ride quality. I can feel the frame wanting to twist when I shift gears while I'm flooring it but not really bad. I'll be doing both eventually but I just figured I'd ask what I should do first?
Now for the SFC's, that loose feeling still existed in the car I rode in with stock shocks and SFC's. The car still floated and crashed into bumps causing rattles.
my first mod was sfcs, mainly because it was cheap, easy to install (me and my dad welded them in) and helped the body flex. the flex yo mention like JD_AMG mentioned is not the chassis but the suspension.
what a subframe does is stop the body from flexing under certain situations like when you pull into driveway or parking lot that is really slanted. stuff like that.
i did notice my car was stiffer with them on. but once i put my spring/shock combo on there my car now rides on rails.
what a subframe does is stop the body from flexing under certain situations like when you pull into driveway or parking lot that is really slanted. stuff like that.
i did notice my car was stiffer with them on. but once i put my spring/shock combo on there my car now rides on rails.
shocks shocks shocks. i highly recommend that first. i literally installed my strano bilstein hds yesterday. and i noticed a world of difference. i, might, get sfc's later down the road, but its not absolutely necessary...when shocks are necessary. in a week or so im gonna order stranos solid front sway bar, which will help out even more. well good luck and merry christmas.
shocks shocks shocks. i highly recommend that first. i literally installed my strano bilstein hds yesterday. and i noticed a world of difference. i, might, get sfc's later down the road, but its not absolutely necessary...when shocks are necessary. in a week or so im gonna order stranos solid front sway bar, which will help out even more. well good luck and merry christmas.
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I too personally like the SFC to tie the chassis together properly. My car is 10 years old and I have done almost everything twice to it and I still run the stock setup as far as shocks go. I know I need to upgrade just haven't gotten there just yet.
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Depends on if you plan on stepping up to Konis in the future or not. If you don't I would get the shocks first. If you do I would either continue to save for the Konis or get SFCs for now. I personally just debated this myself and went with 3pt SFCs and will opt for Konis in the future. (Had Konis and SFCs been in the same price range I would have gone shocks 1st for the more noticable difference.)
They are two different products though and 1 is not a replacement for the other. In other words, don't expect SFCs to do the job of shocks or you WILL be disappointed. They increase chassis rigidity. As long as you understand this you will be happy with them. Since you are looking for an "increase in handling and ride quality" though it sounds like shocks are what you're looking for.
They are two different products though and 1 is not a replacement for the other. In other words, don't expect SFCs to do the job of shocks or you WILL be disappointed. They increase chassis rigidity. As long as you understand this you will be happy with them. Since you are looking for an "increase in handling and ride quality" though it sounds like shocks are what you're looking for.
I would be interested in hearing someone's opinion between the Bilsteins and Koni SAs as to how they compare - someone who has experience with both that is!
Either way you go keep us posted. I would be interested in hearing your take on the Bilsteins if you go that route.
Either way you go keep us posted. I would be interested in hearing your take on the Bilsteins if you go that route.
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
I am not planning on stepping up to the Koni's in the future, they're simply too far out of my budget. I'll probably end up getting the shocks first... Might give Stranos a call sometime next week.
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From: VA
I would be interested in hearing someone's opinion between the Bilsteins and Koni SAs as to how they compare - someone who has experience with both that is!
Either way you go keep us posted. I would be interested in hearing your take on the Bilsteins if you go that route.
Either way you go keep us posted. I would be interested in hearing your take on the Bilsteins if you go that route.
If you were looking at the cheaper bilsteins because of the current money you have now I would get the SFC, they make a very noticeable improvement.
If you know you are not going to get Koni SAs no matter how much spare cash you have get the strano revalved bilstiens and then plan on SFCs later on. Stranos shocks will make a WORLD of difference.
i would then look at sway bars. they will also make a HUGE difference.
i would suggest welding in the SFC personally as a lot of guys have commented the bolt holes elongate over time.
If you know you are not going to get Koni SAs no matter how much spare cash you have get the strano revalved bilstiens and then plan on SFCs later on. Stranos shocks will make a WORLD of difference.
i would then look at sway bars. they will also make a HUGE difference.
i would suggest welding in the SFC personally as a lot of guys have commented the bolt holes elongate over time.
The shocks are the single mess under these cars, and the results from poor dampers shows up in any number of ways, including impact harshness and quivering in in the unibody helped by the slamming that's transmitted into it vs. being damped out by the shocks before it gets there.
If you were to find them, there were a number of threads regarding this very matter. What it boils down to is those that put better shocks on first then didn't notice a huge difference later when SFC's were added. That's because you lessen the pounding on the body when using dampers that you know, actually damp impacts better.
SFC's have a job, and I'm not against them. But they can't do anything to control the mass of the car. If your car also floats or rides like crap, the SFC's can't change that. It will make it feel more tight when you hit lousy impacts, but doesn't soften the impact into the body..
Think of it this way. SFC's are like adding metal to a tuning fork. Hit the tuning fork with the same force, it vibrates less, but it still took the same shot. Shocks are like damping the hit to the tuning fork. The result is still less vibration much, but without the slamming. Add the much better damping control which gets rid of a lot of the waterbed action of the suspension (the roll and pitch rates as well as the floaty, disconnected feel) and there is no way I'd ever not do dampers first. In fact my car, to this day, does not have SFC's on installed. Eventually I will add them as they are now legal for me to use in my class, but everything my car can do has been done without them (and it's not exactly falling apart).
If you were to find them, there were a number of threads regarding this very matter. What it boils down to is those that put better shocks on first then didn't notice a huge difference later when SFC's were added. That's because you lessen the pounding on the body when using dampers that you know, actually damp impacts better.
SFC's have a job, and I'm not against them. But they can't do anything to control the mass of the car. If your car also floats or rides like crap, the SFC's can't change that. It will make it feel more tight when you hit lousy impacts, but doesn't soften the impact into the body..
Think of it this way. SFC's are like adding metal to a tuning fork. Hit the tuning fork with the same force, it vibrates less, but it still took the same shot. Shocks are like damping the hit to the tuning fork. The result is still less vibration much, but without the slamming. Add the much better damping control which gets rid of a lot of the waterbed action of the suspension (the roll and pitch rates as well as the floaty, disconnected feel) and there is no way I'd ever not do dampers first. In fact my car, to this day, does not have SFC's on installed. Eventually I will add them as they are now legal for me to use in my class, but everything my car can do has been done without them (and it's not exactly falling apart).
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion