I have clunking issues
01-10-2009, 05:14 PM
#1
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I have clunking issues #1 I know one of them is my Y pipe hitting my trans crossmember or my floorboard, and I want to know what people usually do to fix such issues? is there any type of high heat rubber that I can jam in between to quiet it down? and who would sell such an item..
I hear it usually between all gear shifts and cruise at lower rpms, if the car is just coasting especially, itll just jerk because of the cam I have at low rpms, but thisll cause a constant contcact with my Y pipe and the crossmember/or floorboard(whatever it is hitting)
#2 another noise I hear is usually heard on acceleration and it seems to be more from the back.. but not as annoying as the Y pipe issue.. I have a broken rear swaybar bracket, but its the bracket that goes on the axle tubes of my 12 bolt and the driver side one is broken... could this also be one of the noises??
I believe I have a 21mm rear swaybar(got it from strano) and a Moser 12 bolt rearend..
Also I have had some rear wheel hop issues on agressive braking before(which I believe could also be from the broken swaybar bracket)..
I would like to know where Id be able to purchase these items, also before I do purchase, ifd like to know if those are the causes of my issues..
Any info is appreciated, thanks..
PS
I do have a UMI tunnel mounted TA and 3pt SFCs, I did plan on getting rid of this TA, for a stock length TA, BUT with the relocation bracket for the T/A...So that its still chassis mounted, I wanted to go this route, because I thought that my wheelhop on decel could have been from the shorter TA on hard braking around the road course.. However if my issues go away, maybe this wouldnt be necessary??
I hear it usually between all gear shifts and cruise at lower rpms, if the car is just coasting especially, itll just jerk because of the cam I have at low rpms, but thisll cause a constant contcact with my Y pipe and the crossmember/or floorboard(whatever it is hitting)
#2 another noise I hear is usually heard on acceleration and it seems to be more from the back.. but not as annoying as the Y pipe issue.. I have a broken rear swaybar bracket, but its the bracket that goes on the axle tubes of my 12 bolt and the driver side one is broken... could this also be one of the noises??
I believe I have a 21mm rear swaybar(got it from strano) and a Moser 12 bolt rearend..
Also I have had some rear wheel hop issues on agressive braking before(which I believe could also be from the broken swaybar bracket)..
I would like to know where Id be able to purchase these items, also before I do purchase, ifd like to know if those are the causes of my issues..
Any info is appreciated, thanks..
PS
I do have a UMI tunnel mounted TA and 3pt SFCs, I did plan on getting rid of this TA, for a stock length TA, BUT with the relocation bracket for the T/A...So that its still chassis mounted, I wanted to go this route, because I thought that my wheelhop on decel could have been from the shorter TA on hard braking around the road course.. However if my issues go away, maybe this wouldnt be necessary??
01-11-2009, 04:30 AM
#3
hate to say it, but these issues are horses that have been beaten to death countless times and buried, then exhumed to be beaten again. i know you've searched already, so you must be a truly sick person for actually making a new thread.
y pipe - fix your engine mounts if you can't get someone to put in a crushbend. you can put a heater hose on it, but it will eventually burn off and you'll do it over and over. if you get that bumpstop hanger, you're using your y-pipe as an engine mount and your aluminum heads will get even with you eventually.
broken sway bar mounts make noise. so do aftermarket torque arms if they hit the tunnel and some say the tunnel mounted ones can cause wheel hop on braking - what's your pinion angle?
to continue on with the sick and twisted ritual of the beating of the dead horse, sponsors are sure to chime in and repeat what they've said countless times in the past.
good luck with your clunking.
y pipe - fix your engine mounts if you can't get someone to put in a crushbend. you can put a heater hose on it, but it will eventually burn off and you'll do it over and over. if you get that bumpstop hanger, you're using your y-pipe as an engine mount and your aluminum heads will get even with you eventually.
broken sway bar mounts make noise. so do aftermarket torque arms if they hit the tunnel and some say the tunnel mounted ones can cause wheel hop on braking - what's your pinion angle?
to continue on with the sick and twisted ritual of the beating of the dead horse, sponsors are sure to chime in and repeat what they've said countless times in the past.
good luck with your clunking.
01-11-2009, 11:29 AM
#4
Mufflex makes the Y pipe bump stop. Very clean. +1 on the motor mounts. Good policy is to always fix what you know is broken first to assist in isolating a problem. Handle your sway bar issues and the stuff up front, see where you are at. If you were not aware, you a retarding the timing and killing your perfromance every time you get that banging. It triggers your knock sensor.
01-11-2009, 04:43 PM
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hate to say it, but these issues are horses that have been beaten to death countless times and buried, then exhumed to be beaten again. i know you've searched already, so you must be a truly sick person for actually making a new thread.
y pipe - fix your engine mounts if you can't get someone to put in a crushbend. you can put a heater hose on it, but it will eventually burn off and you'll do it over and over. if you get that bumpstop hanger, you're using your y-pipe as an engine mount and your aluminum heads will get even with you eventually.
broken sway bar mounts make noise. so do aftermarket torque arms if they hit the tunnel and some say the tunnel mounted ones can cause wheel hop on braking - what's your pinion angle?
to continue on with the sick and twisted ritual of the beating of the dead horse, sponsors are sure to chime in and repeat what they've said countless times in the past.
good luck with your clunking.
y pipe - fix your engine mounts if you can't get someone to put in a crushbend. you can put a heater hose on it, but it will eventually burn off and you'll do it over and over. if you get that bumpstop hanger, you're using your y-pipe as an engine mount and your aluminum heads will get even with you eventually.
broken sway bar mounts make noise. so do aftermarket torque arms if they hit the tunnel and some say the tunnel mounted ones can cause wheel hop on braking - what's your pinion angle?
to continue on with the sick and twisted ritual of the beating of the dead horse, sponsors are sure to chime in and repeat what they've said countless times in the past.
good luck with your clunking.
Yes I have have heard that also, but since noise problems could be numerous different things.. Thats why I made a thread. If you feel so strongly that this thread shouldnt have been made, then PM me saying so..
well my aftermarket T/A makes noise, since its tunnel mounted, if this in inevitable, with a tunnel mounted one. Then Im asking if the longer TA that is relocated will help solve that issue, or at least solve the wheelhop issue..
Im not exactly sure what my pinion angle is at, I need to check it... But the diff seems like it sits pretty straight to what angle the DS is coming, if anything, ill load the suspension and double check it..
So you are telling me there is no solution to the Y pipe hitting? I dont agree with that, Im sure there is a reasonable solution...
01-11-2009, 04:47 PM
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Mufflex makes the Y pipe bump stop. Very clean. +1 on the motor mounts. Good policy is to always fix what you know is broken first to assist in isolating a problem. Handle your sway bar issues and the stuff up front, see where you are at. If you were not aware, you a retarding the timing and killing your perfromance every time you get that banging. It triggers your knock sensor.
well Im not getting any SES lights... and when I go WOT I dont have these issues... just coasting usually and shifts at cruise..
BTW, I dont get where I mentioned anything about my engine mounts being bad.. I have a UMI k member and Poly mounts on them, they are in fine shape.. and tight...
Im gonna already finx my swaybar bracket, as I mentioned before, but I was asking where I can obtain one from in order to do so...
01-11-2009, 11:16 PM
#7
i don't feel strongly about your thread.
most guys on here say -2 is a good angle and even helps with brake hop when using tunnel mounted torque arms, but i doubt any of them do hard braking on a road course. worth a shot though. http://www.rosslertrans.com/Tips/Pinon.htm
it is surprising that your y-pipe is banging the floorboard with poly mounts. there must not be much clearance there. a little crush bend should help. you could also have an exhaust shop chop up your y-pipe a little to give just enough clearance. those are the usual reasonable solutions to the y-pipe issue.
have you had the secondary noise ever since you got the 12 bolt?
good luck
most guys on here say -2 is a good angle and even helps with brake hop when using tunnel mounted torque arms, but i doubt any of them do hard braking on a road course. worth a shot though. http://www.rosslertrans.com/Tips/Pinon.htm
it is surprising that your y-pipe is banging the floorboard with poly mounts. there must not be much clearance there. a little crush bend should help. you could also have an exhaust shop chop up your y-pipe a little to give just enough clearance. those are the usual reasonable solutions to the y-pipe issue.
have you had the secondary noise ever since you got the 12 bolt?
good luck
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01-12-2009, 01:42 AM
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i don't feel strongly about your thread.
most guys on here say -2 is a good angle and even helps with brake hop when using tunnel mounted torque arms, but i doubt any of them do hard braking on a road course. worth a shot though. http://www.rosslertrans.com/Tips/Pinon.htm
it is surprising that your y-pipe is banging the floorboard with poly mounts. there must not be much clearance there. a little crush bend should help. you could also have an exhaust shop chop up your y-pipe a little to give just enough clearance. those are the usual reasonable solutions to the y-pipe issue.
have you had the secondary noise ever since you got the 12 bolt?
good luck
most guys on here say -2 is a good angle and even helps with brake hop when using tunnel mounted torque arms, but i doubt any of them do hard braking on a road course. worth a shot though. http://www.rosslertrans.com/Tips/Pinon.htm
it is surprising that your y-pipe is banging the floorboard with poly mounts. there must not be much clearance there. a little crush bend should help. you could also have an exhaust shop chop up your y-pipe a little to give just enough clearance. those are the usual reasonable solutions to the y-pipe issue.
have you had the secondary noise ever since you got the 12 bolt?
good luck
I had a Y pipe noise originally when I had a LM1 and ORY, then I got H pipes dumped and it went away.. Now its back, since I got a Y pipe again with a magnaflow catback...
when I got a 12 bolt, I had no issies, when I put the aftermarket TA I think I statrted getting wheelhop on decel, but its hard to say since I went and raced at willow springs and thats when I got wheelhop, but that may have just been after I broke the swaybar bracket... Its also hard to say when I picked up noise too, because I cant really recall since I have taken care of one issue after another, and I was in between modifcations and engine swaps, so Im uncertain..
I DO KNOW that I must fix my rear swaybar clamp and my ORY hitting...
after that If I do still have noice MY TA is the next of concern(as well as if that doesn help my wheelhop on decel) lastly.. I do have a part of my driveshaft that seems like it is making contact with the TA somewhere, since I see a small ring of wear, when the DS is spinning..
01-12-2009, 11:46 PM
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I wonder if I weld the valvespring to the Y pipe only and if I somehow secure a rubber bushing or something to the floorboard, if the valvespring will transfer enough exh heat to melt that rubber... hmmm???
But sounds like that will fix my Y pipe problem... Now for the swaybar issue, who sells the spare clamps for the Strano 22mm rear swaybar??
I wonder if strano will have any in stock to just ship??
01-13-2009, 10:13 AM
#11
Heres and Idea for you Hello,
I would recommend getting your Y pipe situation figured out first. And also replace the broken Sway Bar Bracket which would definitely be your cluck in the rear end area. If you have anymore questions or problems feel free to give us a call.
Thanks!
Brad Conrad
I would recommend getting your Y pipe situation figured out first. And also replace the broken Sway Bar Bracket which would definitely be your cluck in the rear end area. If you have anymore questions or problems feel free to give us a call.
Thanks!
Brad Conrad
01-13-2009, 06:52 PM
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Ok do you guys sell any of the brackets for the rear swaybar??
Id probably take 2 just in case...
and in the future I may be interested in your longer TA and relocation crossmember..
but for now the ORY and swaybar issue will be fixed, I just need to find who sells the brackets...
01-14-2009, 11:42 AM
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01-14-2009, 12:39 PM
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01-16-2009, 06:27 PM
#18
#1 I know one of them is my Y pipe hitting my trans crossmember or my floorboard, and I want to know what people usually do to fix such issues? is there any type of high heat rubber that I can jam in between to quiet it down? and who would sell such an item..
I hear it usually between all gear shifts and cruise at lower rpms, if the car is just coasting especially, itll just jerk because of the cam I have at low rpms, but thisll cause a constant contcact with my Y pipe and the crossmember/or floorboard(whatever it is hitting)
I hear it usually between all gear shifts and cruise at lower rpms, if the car is just coasting especially, itll just jerk because of the cam I have at low rpms, but thisll cause a constant contcact with my Y pipe and the crossmember/or floorboard(whatever it is hitting)
#2 another noise I hear is usually heard on acceleration and it seems to be more from the back.. but not as annoying as the Y pipe issue.. I have a broken rear swaybar bracket, but its the bracket that goes on the axle tubes of my 12 bolt and the driver side one is broken... could this also be one of the noises??
I believe I have a 21mm rear swaybar(got it from strano) and a Moser 12 bolt rearend..
I believe I have a 21mm rear swaybar(got it from strano) and a Moser 12 bolt rearend..
01-24-2009, 08:36 PM
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hate to say it, but these issues are horses that have been beaten to death countless times and buried, then exhumed to be beaten again. i know you've searched already, so you must be a truly sick person for actually making a new thread.
y pipe - fix your engine mounts if you can't get someone to put in a crushbend. you can put a heater hose on it, but it will eventually burn off and you'll do it over and over. if you get that bumpstop hanger, you're using your y-pipe as an engine mount and your aluminum heads will get even with you eventually.
broken sway bar mounts make noise. so do aftermarket torque arms if they hit the tunnel and some say the tunnel mounted ones can cause wheel hop on braking - what's your pinion angle?
to continue on with the sick and twisted ritual of the beating of the dead horse, sponsors are sure to chime in and repeat what they've said countless times in the past.
good luck with your clunking.
y pipe - fix your engine mounts if you can't get someone to put in a crushbend. you can put a heater hose on it, but it will eventually burn off and you'll do it over and over. if you get that bumpstop hanger, you're using your y-pipe as an engine mount and your aluminum heads will get even with you eventually.
broken sway bar mounts make noise. so do aftermarket torque arms if they hit the tunnel and some say the tunnel mounted ones can cause wheel hop on braking - what's your pinion angle?
to continue on with the sick and twisted ritual of the beating of the dead horse, sponsors are sure to chime in and repeat what they've said countless times in the past.
good luck with your clunking.
11-27-2009, 09:31 PM
#20
This actually would have been a good thread without all the critisisim about the dead horse thing. Thats why this forum is here guy ,,,For questions! Not comments about peoples questions! Not everybody that chimes on here is a lifer like yourself LOL Look at the guys trader rating! Its (2) for god's sake. Give the guy a breaknext time !!If you see something that really bothers you like this again ,just move on ,,,,or mention to do a search next time after your POSITIVE FEED BACK before making someone feel stupid for asking a question on here! I hate when guys on here do this **** !like its there own personnal site or something!
I agree. I do alot of searches on here and half the time l can't find what I'm looking for.