How do I recenter the rear axle??
#1
How do I recenter the rear axle??
Well.....got a 1" drop, there for I'm looking for an adjustable torque arm, adjustable panhard bar, and adjustable rear lower control arms (assuming those are what I need to recenter the rear axle). So, how do I go about recentering the rear axle?? Is it a tough job Thanks.
Oh ya, will I need anything for the front end??
Oh ya, will I need anything for the front end??
#3
#7
If perform means launching in a straight line, then yes it will help him. If he's a daily driver or a "corner carver" as people refer to it, then relo brackets are a waste of money and can hinder performance in certain situations.
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#8
#9
Here's the 1" drop.
It is a daily driver and I am looking for a corner carver. Not looking to drag race. But wouldn't hurt knowing that I can grab. But most importantly, a corner carver.
It is a daily driver and I am looking for a corner carver. Not looking to drag race. But wouldn't hurt knowing that I can grab. But most importantly, a corner carver.
#10
If its a corner craver don't bother with LCA's, or relocation brakets. Get an adjustable PHB, a good alignment and better shocks, shocks being the biggest difference by a long shot.
#11
i would consider subframe connectors and a chassis mounted torque arm as well. post up when you can't get traction in 1st though and want to know why. a lowered car will benefit from relocation brackets greatly.
#12
SFC's are just weight adders, do a search there is not handling benefit from them (which leads me to further believe they don't stiffen the chassis enough to notice). Relocation brackets are for drag racing, they hurt handling by changing the rear roll center.
#13
have you actually driven a car that has them? don't believe everything you read online, do a field test.
#14
On top of that the guys that auto-x don't see any gained time with SFC's.
#15
Back to the original subject:
The panhard bar will center your rear left to right. Here is how to adjust it:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/INSTALL/F-BODY_PHR.pdf
The LCAs will center the rear front to rear. That is, it will center the rear in the wheel wells, and center the right rear to right front wrt the left rear to right front. This is best done in an alignment shop, with you there to show the mechanic how to adjust them. You can fudge yourself, just by measuring th wheels.
The panhard bar will center your rear left to right. Here is how to adjust it:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/INSTALL/F-BODY_PHR.pdf
The LCAs will center the rear front to rear. That is, it will center the rear in the wheel wells, and center the right rear to right front wrt the left rear to right front. This is best done in an alignment shop, with you there to show the mechanic how to adjust them. You can fudge yourself, just by measuring th wheels.
#16
Will it make it handle any better in a road race? Perhaps if you used the 3 point or diamond mount, which would increase torsional rigidity. However, I only used the 2 point tubular models, so I don't know.
I have seen pics of cars that wrinkle (usually at the rear fenderwells) due to flex. And a friend of mine showed his 94 Z that was rippling right at that location. It has been reported that SFCs will aid in preventing this. (No personal experience, so take it as you may.) I will take the extra weight (big deal in a 3000+ car) for the added strength.
The full writeup can be seen on their web site.
These guys do this for a living, so I trust their judgement on this one.
Last edited by koolaid_kid; 01-12-2009 at 09:20 AM.
#17
i completely agree with JD AMG. i do however have spherical rod ended LCAs and am looking to fab relocation brackets that puts the LCAs back to being level and its not my DD..
From my experience with SFCs, they're great for jacking up the car...but that's about it. the only time i wish i had them is when i go to jack up the car (which is probably more then a lot of people...but really, not that often)
From my experience with SFCs, they're great for jacking up the car...but that's about it. the only time i wish i had them is when i go to jack up the car (which is probably more then a lot of people...but really, not that often)
#18
I have owned my car since new, so I know how it rides without SFCs. It made a huge difference in how tight the body felt after the install. It now feels like one piece, instead of two disjointed parts. So my butt-o-meter has a lot more field miles on it, and I beg to differ.
Will it make it handle any better in a road race? Perhaps if you used the 3 point or diamond mount, which would increase torsional rigidity. However, I only used the 2 point tubular models, so I don't know.
Trust me, if SFC's made a huge difference I would be all over them, heck they are under $300, but unfortunately I and others haven't noticed a difference with them.
I have seen pics of cars that wrinkle (usually at the rear fenderwells) due to flex. And a friend of mine showed his 94 Z that was rippling right at that location. It has been reported that SFCs will aid in preventing this. (No personal experience, so take it as you may.) I will take the extra weight (big deal in a 3000+ car) for the added strength.
I beg to differ on this point as well. A quote from UMI's web site (hope you don't mind, Ryan) "Reposition your instant center by changing your lower control arm angle for improved traction. Brackets lower the rear of the control arm up to 3", a must for all lowered vehicles to correct lost suspension geometry. By lowering your vehicle, you are changing the lower control arm angle allowing the rear mounting point to sit higher than the front. This will, in return, cause wheel hop and a great deal of traction loss....We do not recommend lowering a 3rd or 4th generation F-Body without lower control arm relocation brackets due to the compromise in the geometry on the instant center."
The full writeup can be seen on their web site.
These guys do this for a living, so I trust their judgement on this one.
The full writeup can be seen on their web site.
These guys do this for a living, so I trust their judgement on this one.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showpost.p...3&postcount=10
And Sam works together with UMI...
#19
Here are some options
Hello,
When you lower your vehicle the rear end is going to shift slightly. The Adjustable Panhard Bar is what I would recommend. Later on in the future if you have traction problems you would need a adjustable Torque Arm as well. We have alot of different options to choose from. If there is anything else that you have questions about feel free to ask.
You can see our variety of adjustable panhard bars here... if you need any help choosing one please let me know and I will be glad to help- http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=124
Thanks
Brad Conrad
When you lower your vehicle the rear end is going to shift slightly. The Adjustable Panhard Bar is what I would recommend. Later on in the future if you have traction problems you would need a adjustable Torque Arm as well. We have alot of different options to choose from. If there is anything else that you have questions about feel free to ask.
You can see our variety of adjustable panhard bars here... if you need any help choosing one please let me know and I will be glad to help- http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=124
Thanks
Brad Conrad