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How do I recenter the rear axle??

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Old 01-11-2009, 03:10 PM
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Default How do I recenter the rear axle??

Well.....got a 1" drop, there for I'm looking for an adjustable torque arm, adjustable panhard bar, and adjustable rear lower control arms (assuming those are what I need to recenter the rear axle). So, how do I go about recentering the rear axle?? Is it a tough job Thanks.
Oh ya, will I need anything for the front end??
Old 01-11-2009, 03:29 PM
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The adjustable PHB will center the axle. Its not hard. But you do need all the other stuff you mentioned plus LCA relocation brackets.

You got pics of the drop?
Old 01-11-2009, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueBird346
The adjustable PHB will center the axle. Its not hard. But you do need all the other stuff you mentioned plus LCA relocation brackets.

You got pics of the drop?
The only thing you need is an adjustable PHB to recenter the rear. Everything else is far from needed.
Old 01-11-2009, 03:44 PM
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Yea, but it would perform better if he had it, is what i meant.
Old 01-11-2009, 03:49 PM
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without relocation brackets, you will have nasty wheel hop.
Old 01-11-2009, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
without relocation brackets, you will have nasty wheel hop.

I can vouch for this as well.
Old 01-11-2009, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueBird346
Yea, but it would perform better if he had it, is what i meant.
If perform means launching in a straight line, then yes it will help him. If he's a daily driver or a "corner carver" as people refer to it, then relo brackets are a waste of money and can hinder performance in certain situations.
Old 01-11-2009, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
without relocation brackets, you will have nasty wheel hop.
Far too many variables to say this. I don't have relocation brakets and I don't have wheel hop (then again I have shocks that can damp the springs I have...)
Old 01-11-2009, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueBird346
You got pics of the drop?
Here's the 1" drop.


Originally Posted by z28bryan
If perform means launching in a straight line, then yes it will help him. If he's a daily driver or a "corner carver" as people refer to it, then relo brackets are a waste of money and can hinder performance in certain situations.
It is a daily driver and I am looking for a corner carver. Not looking to drag race. But wouldn't hurt knowing that I can grab. But most importantly, a corner carver.
Attached Thumbnails How do I recenter the rear axle??-1326588304.jpg  
Old 01-11-2009, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by chevystyle
Here's the 1" drop.

It is a daily driver and I am looking for a corner carver. Not looking to drag race. But wouldn't hurt knowing that I can grab. But most importantly, a corner carver.
If its a corner craver don't bother with LCA's, or relocation brakets. Get an adjustable PHB, a good alignment and better shocks, shocks being the biggest difference by a long shot.
Old 01-11-2009, 07:46 PM
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i would consider subframe connectors and a chassis mounted torque arm as well. post up when you can't get traction in 1st though and want to know why. a lowered car will benefit from relocation brackets greatly.
Old 01-11-2009, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
i would consider subframe connectors and a chassis mounted torque arm as well. post up when you can't get traction in 1st though and want to know why. a lowered car will benefit from relocation brackets greatly.
no no no.
SFC's are just weight adders, do a search there is not handling benefit from them (which leads me to further believe they don't stiffen the chassis enough to notice). Relocation brackets are for drag racing, they hurt handling by changing the rear roll center.
Old 01-11-2009, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by JD_AMG
no no no.
SFC's are just weight adders, do a search there is not handling benefit from them (which leads me to further believe they don't stiffen the chassis enough to notice). Relocation brackets are for drag racing, they hurt handling by changing the rear roll center.
have you actually driven a car that has them? don't believe everything you read online, do a field test.
Old 01-12-2009, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
have you actually driven a car that has them? don't believe everything you read online, do a field test.
Been in two different cars with them, one of which I've been in numerous times before the install. The only noticeable difference is the rear impact harshness was greater after the install. The car still felt loose and all around crappy (was still on stock shocks which is the problem with these cars).
On top of that the guys that auto-x don't see any gained time with SFC's.
Old 01-12-2009, 07:12 AM
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Back to the original subject:
The panhard bar will center your rear left to right. Here is how to adjust it:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/INSTALL/F-BODY_PHR.pdf

The LCAs will center the rear front to rear. That is, it will center the rear in the wheel wells, and center the right rear to right front wrt the left rear to right front. This is best done in an alignment shop, with you there to show the mechanic how to adjust them. You can fudge yourself, just by measuring th wheels.
Old 01-12-2009, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by JD_AMG
no no no.
SFC's are just weight adders, do a search there is not handling benefit from them (which leads me to further believe they don't stiffen the chassis enough to notice).
I have owned my car since new, so I know how it rides without SFCs. It made a huge difference in how tight the body felt after the install. It now feels like one piece, instead of two disjointed parts. So my butt-o-meter has a lot more field miles on it, and I beg to differ.
Will it make it handle any better in a road race? Perhaps if you used the 3 point or diamond mount, which would increase torsional rigidity. However, I only used the 2 point tubular models, so I don't know.
I have seen pics of cars that wrinkle (usually at the rear fenderwells) due to flex. And a friend of mine showed his 94 Z that was rippling right at that location. It has been reported that SFCs will aid in preventing this. (No personal experience, so take it as you may.) I will take the extra weight (big deal in a 3000+ car) for the added strength.
Originally Posted by JD_AMG
Relocation brackets are for drag racing, they hurt handling by changing the rear roll center.
I beg to differ on this point as well. A quote from UMI's web site (hope you don't mind, Ryan) "Reposition your instant center by changing your lower control arm angle for improved traction. Brackets lower the rear of the control arm up to 3", a must for all lowered vehicles to correct lost suspension geometry. By lowering your vehicle, you are changing the lower control arm angle allowing the rear mounting point to sit higher than the front. This will, in return, cause wheel hop and a great deal of traction loss....We do not recommend lowering a 3rd or 4th generation F-Body without lower control arm relocation brackets due to the compromise in the geometry on the instant center."
The full writeup can be seen on their web site.
These guys do this for a living, so I trust their judgement on this one.

Last edited by koolaid_kid; 01-12-2009 at 09:20 AM.
Old 01-12-2009, 02:19 PM
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i completely agree with JD AMG. i do however have spherical rod ended LCAs and am looking to fab relocation brackets that puts the LCAs back to being level and its not my DD..

From my experience with SFCs, they're great for jacking up the car...but that's about it. the only time i wish i had them is when i go to jack up the car (which is probably more then a lot of people...but really, not that often)
Old 01-12-2009, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
I have owned my car since new, so I know how it rides without SFCs. It made a huge difference in how tight the body felt after the install. It now feels like one piece, instead of two disjointed parts. So my butt-o-meter has a lot more field miles on it, and I beg to differ.
So you are on stock shocks then correct?
Will it make it handle any better in a road race? Perhaps if you used the 3 point or diamond mount, which would increase torsional rigidity. However, I only used the 2 point tubular models, so I don't know.
While I wont argue a stiffer chassis will improve handling there is no data at all on how much SFC's stiffen the already underrated chassis (which has a torsional frequency equal to a C5 convertible, which is plenty stiff). This has been argued many times before you can search if you want, its usually 50/50 for people who notice a difference.
Trust me, if SFC's made a huge difference I would be all over them, heck they are under $300, but unfortunately I and others haven't noticed a difference with them.

I have seen pics of cars that wrinkle (usually at the rear fenderwells) due to flex. And a friend of mine showed his 94 Z that was rippling right at that location. It has been reported that SFCs will aid in preventing this. (No personal experience, so take it as you may.) I will take the extra weight (big deal in a 3000+ car) for the added strength.
The wrinkles or dimples are from a weak rear crush zone, and SFC's will not help this. The SFC's stop before the rear quarter panel where the dimples form, so even if it was caused by flex the SFC's couldn't do anything about it because there is no bracing from them there. Again you can search for this one and see that many that have installed SFC's got dimples after the installation.

I beg to differ on this point as well. A quote from UMI's web site (hope you don't mind, Ryan) "Reposition your instant center by changing your lower control arm angle for improved traction. Brackets lower the rear of the control arm up to 3", a must for all lowered vehicles to correct lost suspension geometry. By lowering your vehicle, you are changing the lower control arm angle allowing the rear mounting point to sit higher than the front. This will, in return, cause wheel hop and a great deal of traction loss....We do not recommend lowering a 3rd or 4th generation F-Body without lower control arm relocation brackets due to the compromise in the geometry on the instant center."
The full writeup can be seen on their web site.
These guys do this for a living, so I trust their judgement on this one.
Yes relocation brackets are great for a drag racer, but again we are talking about handling here where they do not have the same effect. I'm sure you've seen Sam Strano post on here, a national SCCA champion in his Camaro, so I think he knows a thing or two about Fbody handling... Here is a post by him: (unfortunately LS1tech's search is not working at the moment)
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showpost.p...3&postcount=10
And Sam works together with UMI...
Old 01-13-2009, 09:43 AM
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Default Here are some options

Hello,
When you lower your vehicle the rear end is going to shift slightly. The Adjustable Panhard Bar is what I would recommend. Later on in the future if you have traction problems you would need a adjustable Torque Arm as well. We have alot of different options to choose from. If there is anything else that you have questions about feel free to ask.

You can see our variety of adjustable panhard bars here... if you need any help choosing one please let me know and I will be glad to help- http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=124

Thanks
Brad Conrad



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