anyone make their own SFCs?
#1
anyone make their own SFCs?
i have a connection with someone who does extremely good fabrication work. i'm wanting to see picture of anyones fabbed subframe connectors. it doesnt look like it would be a very difficult to make for someone with some skill. just wanna see some pics and maybe some tips or pointers from anyone who has done this before!
#2
that is exactly what I am looking for. I'm thinking i'll measure the dimensions under the car then take them to a custom steel fabrication. I'm looking for weld on since I don't plan on selling my bird. I've also thought about a strut tower and LCAs. Weld on type seems to be better than the bolt on cause of the surface of the SFC that adhered to the body frame. How much would it cost to make them you think?
#3
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I built a set of SFC's for my car. They bolted and welded to the control arm mounts, welded to the front sub frame and bolted to the g-load brace and tunnel mount torque arm. They were not difficult to make, the hardest part was keeping them hugged next to the body to keep ground clearance without rubbing the body.
Here is a pic of one side before I weled it in. Also had them powder coated wrinkle black.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0030_large.jpg
Here is a pic of one side before I weled it in. Also had them powder coated wrinkle black.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0030_large.jpg
#4
im not sure how much it would cost, im just gonna do a full detail/buff on the guys jeep as pay. i'm not really looking for 3 pt connectors, although it would be nice. im constantly hacing to pull the exhaust off, and itd just be too much of a headache! i think 2 pt connectors would be just fine and would be worth the trouble to make, you think?
#5
ill try to get the guy to take pictures and measurements during the process so maybe we could sticky this up later on or it could help someone out. are there any benefits to have them boxed instead of tubular? obviously tubular is easier to work with and bend so that in itself may limit me to that style tubing, which im cool with as long as it performs the same. i have no clue about this stuff though, never really dealt with suspension and have my parts made like this.
#7
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i think box tube would be easier.
but for the money. it is just as easy to buy them.
i make alot of suspension ****. and that is one thing i would leave to people with r&d money. like i love my 3 point umi. they sit so close to the body.
but for the money. it is just as easy to buy them.
i make alot of suspension ****. and that is one thing i would leave to people with r&d money. like i love my 3 point umi. they sit so close to the body.
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#8
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re
I made my own with some boxed tubing that was 1.5"x2". It fit right in the channel from the front to the back with no modification needed. I stitched welded it to the sheet metal seam the way down, to the front a-arm gussets and the rear lca reinforcement. When I jack up the car in the front on one side 3 tires come off the ground now. I didn't triangulate it into the tranny mount or g-load bracs I think a cage will do a better job when it comes to that. as a bonus it fixed some squeeks associated with the t-tops. Too cold for pictures it is 7.5*F here. The stick of tubing cost me nothing it was scarp from the machine co I worked at but I don't see it being much more than 15-20 bucks as long as you don't get a thick piece.
#11
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No offence guys... but if you have to have measurements and such from a website... you probably shouldn't tackle making your own.
When i put mine on my car i got it up in the air... evaluated the situation... then starting cutting/welding. Its really not rocket science. Your main goal is to tie everything together. You can easily see the front and rear subframe rails.
When i put mine on my car i got it up in the air... evaluated the situation... then starting cutting/welding. Its really not rocket science. Your main goal is to tie everything together. You can easily see the front and rear subframe rails.
#13
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Two pieces of tubing is all mine are. Just have two pieces ready that are roughly the length of from subframe to subframe.
I went as far as to wrap the rear plates around the control arms boxes... so now those two holes are reinforced and solid to the front of the car.
I went as far as to wrap the rear plates around the control arms boxes... so now those two holes are reinforced and solid to the front of the car.
#15
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SFC's aren't really suspension components, its not like if it fails it will put you at danger.
That being said... i used to work for a place that built tubular k-member, a-arms, etc. They used to be a sponsor on here. To me SFC's are about the simplest thing you can make/built because there is nothing to them. If you spend a little time they fit nicely.
That being said... i used to work for a place that built tubular k-member, a-arms, etc. They used to be a sponsor on here. To me SFC's are about the simplest thing you can make/built because there is nothing to them. If you spend a little time they fit nicely.
#16
I thought about it. Done it before on a second gen.
I don't think it's worth it since the premade ones are so cheap and just go up and weld on---done. And they're powdercoated.
If you have no friends doing the work for free, you cannot duplicate the same parts for near the same price.
Someone either made or adapted SFC's from a different car onto my Z28, they don't go all the way to the LCA bolt, and that bothers me. If you look at the rear bracket I would have flipped it around and it would have made it to the bolt.
And the welds to the body are crap. This car used to run 6.4 in the 1/8 and these didn't break off, sometimes I wonder if they even do anything for this reason.
I don't think it's worth it since the premade ones are so cheap and just go up and weld on---done. And they're powdercoated.
If you have no friends doing the work for free, you cannot duplicate the same parts for near the same price.
Someone either made or adapted SFC's from a different car onto my Z28, they don't go all the way to the LCA bolt, and that bothers me. If you look at the rear bracket I would have flipped it around and it would have made it to the bolt.
And the welds to the body are crap. This car used to run 6.4 in the 1/8 and these didn't break off, sometimes I wonder if they even do anything for this reason.
Last edited by 9000th01ss; 03-18-2009 at 12:18 AM.
#18
If you know anything, 6.4 in the 1/8th is not exactly slow.
Now it's daily driven. The SFCs are welded on so shitty I think if they were under any stress at all one of the **** welds would have broken off by now.
#19
First, when I went WOT and shifted 1st to 2nd, the car would not shoot the rear out to right it chirped the gear. Instead the whole front lifts up.
Second, traction is greatly improved, both from a dig as well as moving. On that note - if you like to goof around (swing the tail out on turns) they add quite a bit of stability and the handling when the tail is out is much more predictable then without them.
IMO, GREAT investment regardless of the way you go about it.