Greekey

iTrader: (3)

Guys/Gals, I sent my calipers off to get powdercoated and in the mean time I let my master cyliner run dry, which I heard was bad. Do I just bleed the brake system normally now? As in filling and keeping an eye on the fluid level?

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

I made this same mistake last year. It was a PITA to get all the air out of the system. Your best bet is to bench bleed the master first, then bleed the brakes at the calipers second. I didn't cycle the ABS module, but i did get all the air out of the system using about 2 gallons of brake fluid.

This year I put bolts with copper crush washers thru the banjo fittings and torqued the bolts down to 20 ft lbs. Now they won't leak with the calipers off the car.

pwterz28

iTrader: (10)

what do you mean by cycling the abs module

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

There is a tool that the dealer has, I think it's called a Tech II. It will activate the solenoids in the ABS module. This is done to free any trapped air bubbles in the module.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

It is a Tech 2.

Another method would be to trigger your ABS whilst driving in a safe and isolated area with nothing to collide with, however it can be hit or miss.

If in doubt, have someone use a Tech2 to let the bubbles out.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I agree...Since the OP's sig says he's in Ohio, I would imagine that there's still some snow on the ground, so the roads/parking lots have some slippery spots.

Get the car back together, and if you can get to a snowy side street or parking lot, AWAY from any other cars/traffic, do a few "panic stops" on the ice. This will readily cycle the ABS module. That will A) bleed the ABS module; and B) get fresh brake fluid in it.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I've let my master run dry before, but I had already ditched the ABS in favor of the SJM kit, so I was able to bleed it just fine with my Motive Power Bleeder. The ABS would probably complicate that, as most are suggesting in this thread...