Make your own PHB & LCA
#44
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^ ^ ^ or buy your rod ends. measure them. then buy the tube. or you can pay a little bit more for someone to already have a tried and ture product and buy it complete ready to bolt on. like in my link from 6litereater
#45
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I've run these for over two years now with no complaints.
http://www.lmperformance.com/18851/1.html
http://www.lmperformance.com/18822/1.html
http://www.lmperformance.com/18851/1.html
http://www.lmperformance.com/18822/1.html
#46
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So when does a set become "tried and true" in your eyes?
Every 4th gen you see in this video ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NE-ILKGNH7k
has DIY aluminum rear suspension components. No issues.
Use two 16' trailing arms ($16 each) for the LCAs and a 39.5" trailing arm ($21) for the PHB. Can be sourced from a LOT of places, but Coleman is where I got mine and those prices.
I have found that the XM series rod end from Jegs works great. Need 6 RH thread and 6 LH thread units.
The more difficult part to get are the spacers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NE-ILKGNH7k
has DIY aluminum rear suspension components. No issues.
Use two 16' trailing arms ($16 each) for the LCAs and a 39.5" trailing arm ($21) for the PHB. Can be sourced from a LOT of places, but Coleman is where I got mine and those prices.
I have found that the XM series rod end from Jegs works great. Need 6 RH thread and 6 LH thread units.
The more difficult part to get are the spacers.
So at what point do they pass muster?
#47
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The johnny joint LCA's might be the next best thing out there since sliced bread and all the sponsors might start selling them. Maybe... But since this is new, I don't know how you can claim "tried and true" yet.
#48
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I've run these for over two years now with no complaints.
http://www.lmperformance.com/18851/1.html
http://www.lmperformance.com/18822/1.html
http://www.lmperformance.com/18851/1.html
http://www.lmperformance.com/18822/1.html
$132.00 for the set of LCA's
$71.00 for the PHB
$203.00 vs $289.00. Not to too bad in my eyes. But you do get free shipping with the LMP units.
Last edited by slow ride 02; 02-13-2009 at 10:56 AM. Reason: xxx
#49
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just cause it is the first time you see it, or the first time the forum sees it. doesnt mean it is new.
but call it what you want. but if you take the tube( just the tube that is use) well hundreds of guys run rod stlye LCA so they all use similiar tubes. ok so tube tried and true.
now lets take the JJ and ask currie how long it is used. and how many people run them. you will find out that it is tried and true in the rock climbing world.
now put them together. and it is a BAD *** set up.
but we are working on a new style. basicly the same thing but made out of machined aluminum. it should be about 6 months before it releases though.
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1.125 X .220 6061-T6 for the aluminum. $16.00 ea
1.00 hexagon extruded aluminum $12.80 ea.
15/16 X .125 steel $10.30 ea
1.00 X .072 swedged steel $11.60 ea
1.250 X .231 H.D. D.O.M steel tubing $77.95 ea with rod ends. LCA or PHB
1.00 hexagon extruded aluminum $12.80 ea.
15/16 X .125 steel $10.30 ea
1.00 X .072 swedged steel $11.60 ea
1.250 X .231 H.D. D.O.M steel tubing $77.95 ea with rod ends. LCA or PHB
Last edited by slow ride 02; 02-13-2009 at 11:24 AM. Reason: added
#51
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1.125 X .220 6061-T6 for the aluminum. $16.00 ea good size
1.00 hexagon extruded aluminum $12.80 ea. ok
15/16 X .125 steel $10.30 ea too small
1.00 X .072 swedged steel $11.60 ea not enough for good threading
1.250 X .231 H.D. D.O.M steel tubing $77.95 ea with rod ends. LCA or PHB this should be quite good
1.00 hexagon extruded aluminum $12.80 ea. ok
15/16 X .125 steel $10.30 ea too small
1.00 X .072 swedged steel $11.60 ea not enough for good threading
1.250 X .231 H.D. D.O.M steel tubing $77.95 ea with rod ends. LCA or PHB this should be quite good
#52
For the folks making their own components, rod end center bores are not available in metric diameters. If you're re-using stock hardware, you should not be using a 1/2" ID bore rod end. The hole size variance is rather large and creates unwanted noise. Your rod end could be brand new, but will rattle due to the larger 1/2" rod end bore and smaller 12mm bolt.
Make certain you're either stepping up to a 1/2" bolt for your LCA or PHR or start with a larger diamater bore rod end and use a step bushing that has the correct ID metric bore measurement...the same as the bolts. The PHR bracket needs addressed as well.
I feel the arguements of making own products is futile. Sometimes you can save money, sometimes you don't. Sometimes I see someone adding costs, they neglect time, effort, gas, shipping etc which can make quite the difference in what they are "saving".
There is a sense of self accomplishment that can't be purchased when building something for yourself. That I commend those folks on. Not for reasons of saving 10-20.00.
Make certain you're either stepping up to a 1/2" bolt for your LCA or PHR or start with a larger diamater bore rod end and use a step bushing that has the correct ID metric bore measurement...the same as the bolts. The PHR bracket needs addressed as well.
I feel the arguements of making own products is futile. Sometimes you can save money, sometimes you don't. Sometimes I see someone adding costs, they neglect time, effort, gas, shipping etc which can make quite the difference in what they are "saving".
There is a sense of self accomplishment that can't be purchased when building something for yourself. That I commend those folks on. Not for reasons of saving 10-20.00.
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^ ^ ^ so does bmr and spohn and dkt and j&m and lg motorsports. but mitchntx said he can get it all for x price. just wondering if he is getting a deal on his inserts. like he is gettting a deal from jegs on the rod ends.
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What rod ends did you use? I used the QA1 XM's with spacers from UMI ($25.00 ea) and $53.00 worth of tubing from coleman racing. Thats $203.00. Was the $160 just for the rod ends?
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Up Date
Just a up date. Bought all the parts and installed them. Didn't helpl the 60' time(Didnnt think it would) The Q1A rod ends i Got fro UMI are very quite. And I was looking at a sponcer on the right Pavlock Performance and they look like same.
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the xm series is teflon and kevlar lined. the teflon is soft but the kevlar is not.
if you run them ever day i give the rods ends 6 moneths to a year.
then you will have to re buy them at say 30 dollars. ok so lets just say you get two years out of them before they become lose. so that is 120 dollars ever two years to keep up on your rod ends.
now the 6Litereater style are a little more up front. but if they only last two year( which most last longer) it will only cost you 8 dollars per end so 32 dollars.
hell that is cheap
rod ends
2 years = 120
4 years = 240
JJ joints
2 years = 32
4 years =64
looks like the jj joints pay for them selves
and anyone that wants to know where to get the 6litereater joints. look in my sig
if you run them ever day i give the rods ends 6 moneths to a year.
then you will have to re buy them at say 30 dollars. ok so lets just say you get two years out of them before they become lose. so that is 120 dollars ever two years to keep up on your rod ends.
now the 6Litereater style are a little more up front. but if they only last two year( which most last longer) it will only cost you 8 dollars per end so 32 dollars.
hell that is cheap
rod ends
2 years = 120
4 years = 240
JJ joints
2 years = 32
4 years =64
looks like the jj joints pay for them selves
and anyone that wants to know where to get the 6litereater joints. look in my sig